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PSC hydro-assist box install write-up

6K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  RnEmOvr 
#1 ·
First off, this "write-up" isn't that good. I had grand intentions of documenting everything. But, after getting covered in power steering fluid I decided to fast-track the install. Here's some pics of what I did, and some piss-poor commentary of how I did it.:rofl:

Here's the new PSC box, ready to go. The box is tapped for hydro, but conveniently the hydro fittings are capped. Good for those who need a new box, but aren't ready for hydro yet.




First off is to gain access to the 3 bolts holding the box onto the frame.
I had to remove my Antirock link on this side to free things up.
Green: 9/16"
Red: 1/2"
Yellow: 5/8"



Now I can remove the box by removing the 3 bolts. One of these bolts secures the steering box brace as well. My brace has this bolt, plus a 3/4" head bolt (standard bumper mount bolt) on the bottom side (Blue arrow)



After the brace was removed, I held the box while a friend removed the remaining 2 bolts.
Next step was to remove the factory power steering fluid lines running to the box. I did this with a 18mm (I think) open ended wrench. I found this to be much easier with the box free of the frame.



After the lines are removed, I could un-couple the steering shaft from the box. This was done with a 9/16" socket. Be sure to NOT SPIN THE STEERING WHEEL at this point. Evidentally you can break the clock spring in the steering column. This is a pain to fix.
Also pay attention to the fact the input shaft on the box is indexed to the steering shaft on the Jeep. It is critical to have these lined up during the install of the new box.

The box is now free.
Install was the oposite. Just make sure to use new rubber o-rings where the factory lines connect to the box (most new boxes come with these o-rings)

After I had the box mounted, I was able to hook up my hydro lines, and route them to avoid any interference. Then the obvious task of bleeding the air out of the system. I did this by jacking up the front axle to allow the tires to clear the floor. Then WITHOUT THE MOTOR RUNNING I cycled the steering from stop to stop about 30 ish times while my friend slowly added fluid when needed.
Then I started the Jeep, and continued to cycle the steering for a while longer.
Here a finished picture showing the new box mounted, and all lines run. Not shown is the cooler and reservoir.



Conclusion: This box is simply amazing!
I had previously tapped my factory box, and it worked OK. But it started to leak. So I bought another box (reman) and tapped it also. That worked OK, but I wanted it to work great. So I've got a spare box tapped for hydro laying in the garage. Hopefully I'll never need it.
So I ponied up and called PSC. The steering is much quicker (especially at idle) and the effort needed to turn the wheels is almost non-existant.
Again, sorry the write-up is crap. I'm sure I forgot or missed some important steps in doing this correctly.
 
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#6 ·
Because doing the initial bleed of the system with the engine running will cause cavitation due to all the bubbles in the fluid which can damage the steering box. The initial bleed must always be done without the engine running. I almost damaged mine by thinking I could do it with the engine running years ago after replacing my steering box.

Ryan, your "hydro assist" in the subject made me think you were also adding a ram, or was what you did limited to replacing the steering box?
 
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