post #1 of Old 08-30-2008, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
TealJ87
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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PROLOCK ignition kill...how do I remove it?

Alright, after weeks of pulling my hair out about why my Jeep won't start , not to mention the couple hundred I spent on replacing starters, sensors, and such, I am 99% sure that I have found my problem: a PROLOCK ignition interrupt/kill security key thingy. I never knew what this thing was, until this morning. The Jeep had difficulty starting again, no clicking sounds, but power sent to everything else. I literally could not get it to start. So, I haxored it and used a screwdriver to send power directly to the starter and, low and behold, it cranked and fired up. I let it run for about 15 minutes, then shut it off. I decided to take the PROLOCK key out and put it in my pocket to throw away later. When I tried to start it back up, though, nothing happened. Three key turns later, still nothing. "Okay, this is weird...the engine was plenty warm and should have started right up. Maybe this key thing is important." I firmly plugged the PROLOCK key back into its receptacle, and turned the key...the Jeep instantly roared to life. I unplugged it = no crank, no start. Plugged it back in = instantly starts up. Just to make absolutely sure, I tried this unplug and plug back in procedure and it performed exactly the same as before.

SO, how do I get this thing out? I did some quick research this morning and it looks like PROLOCK went out of business about the same time that my TJ was manufactured (it's a '97). I'm guessing this system was dealer installed and I should probably take my Jeep to my local dealer to have it uninstalled. But, before I pay through the nose to have them remove a few wires, I wanted to see if anyone has encountered a similar issue.

By the way, thank you to all those who responded to my previous posts. Your advice helped me to better understand the whole system and how to narrow down the actual problem.

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post #2 of Old 08-30-2008, 11:07 AM
CalaskanTJ
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Is the prolock thing a little electical micro chip looking thing that has a red light blink when removed? I have one on my jeep and am having prolems getting it started as well. maybe that thingy is the culprit!

1997 TJ. 4.0, 5spd. 4" Lift, 33" MTR's, D30 front with ARB, rear 8.8 with ARB, 4.10 gears, KC Slimlites, Superwinch EPi9.0s, Hi-lift Jack. Trail Gear front bumper, rear bumper/tire carrier, rock sliders and steering skid.

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post #3 of Old 08-30-2008, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
TealJ87
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My PROLOCK key doesn't have a blinking red light (but it does have a tiny flashlight ). It also says PROLOCK on the plastic.

What kind of starting issues are you having? Specifically, when you turn the key to start, does anything happen? Any sounds, or is the Jeep just silent? My fuel pump turns on, but I get no clicking from even the starter. All lights and aux stuff still work.
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post #4 of Old 08-30-2008, 11:24 AM
CalaskanTJ
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Here is the link to the post I have with my problem
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/jeep-not-starting-600364/

I just went out and looked, the system I have is Stargard. After doing some research all that it does is cuts power to the starter when it is removed.

1997 TJ. 4.0, 5spd. 4" Lift, 33" MTR's, D30 front with ARB, rear 8.8 with ARB, 4.10 gears, KC Slimlites, Superwinch EPi9.0s, Hi-lift Jack. Trail Gear front bumper, rear bumper/tire carrier, rock sliders and steering skid.

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post #5 of Old 08-30-2008, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
TealJ87
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Hmmm...weird how your exterior lights and radio won't work. I don't know if there is a difference in what each system disables when unplugged. All I know is that I want it out! I read something about removing the starter kill relay inline, but have no clue how to correctly do that. Any ideas?
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post #6 of Old 08-30-2008, 11:39 AM
CalaskanTJ
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If I could see a wiring diagram for that system it would probably be easy, but without it I have no clue.
I think the problem with my jeep is something in the main PDC our the computer. I think I am going to have to bring it in somewhere to get it checked out!

1997 TJ. 4.0, 5spd. 4" Lift, 33" MTR's, D30 front with ARB, rear 8.8 with ARB, 4.10 gears, KC Slimlites, Superwinch EPi9.0s, Hi-lift Jack. Trail Gear front bumper, rear bumper/tire carrier, rock sliders and steering skid.

UTAH JEEPCREW #20
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post #7 of Old 08-30-2008, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
TealJ87
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Good luck! I can't find anything either, so I guess I'm going to the dealership.
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post #8 of Old 08-30-2008, 12:59 PM
onlyn8v
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Those systems are very uncomplicated. Having a stater kill is like giving a road map to a thief. They will have usually a power, a ground, and 2 wires going to the starter 1 for key side and 1 for motor side. They can get as easy and simple as all wired at steering column or as complicated as a wire run all the way to the starter. (Not very common) All you do to remove it is connect the starter wires back together.

Dave
04 Wrangler Sport 4.0
1990 VW Corrado Turbo
1998 VW Jetta TDI
1999 VW Jetta TDI 4 SALE!!
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post #9 of Old 08-30-2008, 01:18 PM
vector6
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post #10 of Old 04-08-2009, 07:56 PM
BVaquero01
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how to remove PROLOCK

look under the drive wheel . follow the wire that you conect the prolock key onto.... Ok you found it. There are three wires coming out of this box.
1.- small one is for the ground, is connected to the chasis or metal of the car.remove it might be sreeew on.
2. the other two are bridged to the starter, cut them close to the prolock box and conect them together. That is all there is to it.
Simple,, other wise go to a mechanic where thay will have to charge you for the tow and remove the prolock.around $270.00

Remove the atachemnts to the prolock, and sell it on e-bay or something.

good luck!!!
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post #11 of Old 11-27-2013, 07:58 AM
StevieGirl
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Hello, I may be years after this original post, but my 1994 Chevy S10 was having the same issues! After hundreds of dollars later with new batteries [3], clutch switches [2], ignition relays, starters [3!], alternators, other type relays, wiring chased down....have I forgotten anything? I discovered the hidden safety device to protect the vehicle, PROLOCK was the issue! UGH! I liked it and used it to protect the truck from thieves, but never thought THAT would be the issue! But even when it was back in its place, the 3-45 key turns [yes, I began to count how many times it took before turn over --- that was after 3 towing bills, when I was in the dark!] before starting fire was enough to wear me out of patience! Then it totally died! more UGH! I have put a temp wire in the yellow and red to complete the circuit.

But my question...since they are out of business, is there any other devices that will afford this simple sort of anti-theft protection. I know they could trace wires etc. but most thieves don't have time to diagnose the issue of no start, nor can they jump start the straight shift with the "kill off", nor are they smart! Any safe ideas? other than put in an obvious toggle switch they could find and drive off? ~ Stevie
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post #12 of Old 01-05-2015, 03:33 PM
gfry
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I have the same exact unit in my '96 Toyota T100 truck and it's been doing the same thing as yours - only worse!
Soooo... (after a long procrastination), I decided to tackle head on. And, (after cleaning, spraying with a contact cleaner and blowing it all out) - I found the problem!
One of the pins inside the female receptacle was bent up, (instead of down like all the other 5 pins), thereby NOT making contact with the male counterpart.
I used a safety pin and bent the very tip just enough to fit up in there and bent it back down. Now it works perfectly!
Hope this helps others?
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