I am about to begin a crusade to prevent rust on my Jeep. It has none at this time but I am concerned about inside the frame and inside the body channels.
Some years back I repaired a tube and fabric Piper Cub aircraft, I treated the inside of the 4130 tubes, after welding, with boiled linseed oil. This has been a standard aviation practice for decades for tube structure aircraft. Of course, the tubes are drilled to drain and then welded closed sealing them. The inside of a Jeep frame rail is exposed to the elements so would need periodic re-application. Is there a better way? I would rather prevent rust than try to stop it after starting or repairing it.
I just installed (still installing) Savvy armor. I painted over the body areas with zinc chromate (over OEM paint in good condition) and then put a top coat of anti rust paint (rattle can) over that. I then powder coated my aluminum armor and sprayed Corrosion X on the mating surfaces of armor and body. I imagine from time to time I will need to remove the armor and clean and re-apply the Corrosion X.
my dad just did a frame up restore to his old cj5. i might be mistaking the name but i believe we used POR-15 and had quite a time getting it into the frame. we tried plugging all the holes but quickly found out that we did a horrible job and made quite a mess. after a couple days of drying, we used a surgeons camera and snaked it into the frame. we were quite happy with how it turned out.
my dad is an operations foreman at the geysers here in cali. rain, snow or shine, the cj makes the hour and 15 minute commute a couple times a week. once he gets there its usually sitting in snow, getting blasted with sulfer for hours. the damn thing stinks! yet the POR15 has held up great.
That eastwood internal frame coating is really good. I did my old tj with that and getting ready to do my new tj also. You will need 3 cans to do the frame, get a fourth and do the torque boxes ( the chanel with the body mounts on the tub) You should do the internal coating first because its really runny and it will run out all over your fresh black paint. Each can comes with the flex nozzle, spray the nozzles out by attaching it to spray carb clean so you can reuse them. I reused the nozzles sprayed a coat of gloss black inside the frame with valspar tractor enamal to cover up the green frame coating. It looked much better.
The Eastwood product looks interesting, I was looking at POR or Monstaliner for the outside of my frame. After grinding off all of the original paint on the frame for my 4 link and living a stone throw from the ocean I need to apply something that is going to last.
“If I had eight hours to chop down a tree, I’d spend six sharpening my axe.”- Abraham Lincoln
I did the POR15 treatment to the outside of my axles. It is one of the easiest thing to "install" because you can just paint it on with a brush but I have not had it on mine long enough to test the longevity. The CJ guys on this forum swear by it tho.
06 WK Hemi Overland.. stock DD
87 MJ project on 37s.. Waggy axles, 6 speed, flipped D300 and Bobbed 10" so far. 3 link coming soon.
05 LJ.. Low and on 37s
79 FSJ.. 360/4speed on 38s
85 CJ-7 Renegade
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I want to try this Eastwood stuff and then get to coating the rest of the frame and herculine the tub. Any tips on how to clean out the frame rails? Where's the best spot to make a drainage hole? And where to stick a hose/pressure washer?
I crawled under and looked around but am wondering if I'll need to remove any parts to access the ends of the frame rails. I'd like to use existing holes/accessible areas if possible. Trying to coat the frame up as best I can, inside and out.
Clean out the frame rails with a shop vac pressure washer. I cleaned mine ran a couple cans of the eastwood frame coatings I think 3 cans. I also took a piece of 1/4 plate and drilled a hole in it. Welded it to the lower part of the frame where it comes down and drilled a 5/8 hole in the frame. I now have a nice drain. Anytime I go wheeling I just stick a hose in the frame rail now until it comes out clear water.