I have heard many recommend using a penetrating oil like PB Blaster on body mounts, etc. before getting started. I can only see a few mounts that have holes near them to hit the bolt of the body mounts with a spray extension tube. What about the others? Any other prep recommended?
Don't bother with PB Blaster, there are better choices including Kroil, Break-Free, and Liquid Wrench. Kroil is #1 of those three, the only thing that is known to be better is a homemade 50:50 mix of acetone and ATF.
Reminds me of the discovery I made when trying to remove sun baked Pine Sap from my hood.
I tried several store bought solutions and then my wife said, just use straight isopropyl alcohol (like I was a dummy) ... and sure enough, came off with little effort... and I had to act like the dummy and admit she was right
I just did the same thing on my GF's Liberty.:shhh: Rubbing alcohol and fingernail polish remover will take off just about anything from paint that isn't supposed to be on there. Sap, glue from stickers, dried eggs from the neighbor's kids, paint from hitting the neighbor's car, etc....
OK, my Zone 4.25 Combo Lift is in the mail. I have been pre-reading the installation instructions, and going over posts regarding getting the old springs out and new ones in.
The Zone instructions say to disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm and to disconnect the lower control arms to lower the axle. While I've seen posts that say to leave these connected and just jack the opposite side up and let flex create the room to pop the springs out and in. (I think for 2" lift spring)
If you want to disconnect the drag link, do it at the knuckle not at the pitman arm.
2" springs are very doable with just the shocks and swaybar links disconnected (and the bumpstop cup removed). 3" might be a little tougher but probably doable.
Personally for longer springs I'd rather use strut compressors on the springs rather than go disconnecting a bunch of stuff in the front end.
I think there is a lack of precision in the names used for these tools. The point is you want an external compressor. At my local store that item is called a strut compressor.
I always get the loaner coil spring strut compressors. They have pins that lock so they can't slip off the springs. I never disconnect the control arms or drag link.
I always get the loaner coil spring strut compressors. They have pins that lock so they can't slip off the springs. I never disconnect the control arms or drag link.
But I can drop the axle far enough quicker, than I can wrench down a spring and wrench it up. I used the compressors once and just found it easier for me to not use them... but I am odd
Bet I can drop the axle far enough quicker, than I can wrench down a spring and wrench it up. I used the compressors once and just found it easier for me to not use them... but I am odd
Same here, I don't use spring or strut compressors when installing springs on a TJ, it's faster to just drop the axle enough to insert the uncompressed spring. Not to mention doing so would scare the hell out of me. I only use strut compressors on my car struts.
I got a late start yesterday, and working in very hot and humid conditions, so I decided to make it a 2 day job. First day went pretty well; body lift was pretty easy, MML gave me a challenge or 2, but TheBoogieman gave me some ideas. I decided to go ahead a loan a tool from Autozone for the spring/strut compressor. Only had to squeeze about an inch and a half for the front Springs. I left the lower control arms attached. I did loosen the Bolts of the lower control arms at the axle. Should I also loosen the lower control arm bolts at the frame?
First day went pretty well; body lift was pretty easy, MML gave me a challenge or 2, but TheBoogieman gave me some ideas. Should I also loosen the lower control arm bolts at the frame?
I just realized that I ordered the optional cam bolts, and thus I will be removing the bolts anyway. I think it might be easier though only removing one at a time? The Zone instructions didn't include anything on the cam bolts, but they do mention the are standard on 1997 models. My Haynes manual doesn't really say much about them either. Anybody ever installed these optional cam bolts with their kit?
Oh well, it was like warning on the website and you had to acknowledge that you read it, saying that the cam bolts were highly recommended. Any idea where I should set them?
If you did not have camber bolts originally, then adjust so the bolt is in the middle. If you have an angle finder then adjust the bolt until correct caster 5-7*
But I could be wrong,never messed with camber bolts and my Jeep did not have them.
Unbolt the right suspension parts & the old spring will fall out. The new taller springs can then be installed without needing to be compressed. It takes longer to compress four springs enough to insert than it takes to unbolt a few more parts.
Unbolting is easy true. But rebolting can be more involved. Recentering an axle, getting control arms reconnected while keeping axle square, dealing with axle rotation, etc . are all a bit more involved than you make them sound. Seems like we get lots of threads about people having to fight the axle with ratchet straps.
My experience doing it as I described has been good enough so I haven't bothered to rent a spring compressor for the TJ in probably 15 years. Centering the front axle is easily done by turning the steering wheel until the track bar mount lines up. Centering the rear axle so the track bar lines up can be done by raising/lowering the axle until the track bar lined up. I have never had to unbolt a control arm to install new springs, not even for those stupid-tall 5.5" RockKrawler springs I stupidly installed then removed many years ago.
X2....With the control arm bolts loosened (they should be loosened and retorqued at the new ride height anyway), and the sway bar links and shocks disconnected, you can jack up one end of the axle to droop the opposite end to get the springs out. Since the driver's side axle end will droop more than the passenger side (front axle), due to the configuration of the track bar, remove the driver's side spring first. Then with the driver's side out, jack up the driver's side to full bump and remove the passenger side. Reinstall starting on the passenger side, and finishing on the driver's side. The rear axle is done just the opposite (since the track bar is opposite) No compressor needed.
are you talking about cam bolts in the rear? Even if they existed (they don't) they wouldn't make enough of a difference in pinion angle to be worth your time. The correct solution would be adjustable control arms.
http://zoneoffroad.com/display?search=J5408
The zone lift has the option of buying rear pinion cam locks. I'm not sure if they act like a cam bolt or what. They also have the adjustable control arms but adding both front and rear more than doubles the cost of the lift. Just trying to figure out what I actually need to do this lift.
For the rear, I would highly recommend double adjustable uppers. More often than not... there are changes which require you to re-adjust the rear pinion. Any change to your standard ride height (Springs, weight from new bumper/tire carrier) or doing an SYE, etc.. will require a pinion adjustment.
I was able to squeeze in 3" BDS springs using the flex method and without spring/strut compressors. The driver side was a tight fit getting them in and I had to basically screw the spring into place but I got it. I remember making my dad stand on the drooped side of the axle while I wrestled it into place. It can be done.
As for libertys, my dad has a 05 liberty with the 2.4L engine, 6 speed, and 2wd. I give him so much crap for having a 2wd jeep, but it handles itself pretty well. My ex had an 03 with 4wd however and it handled pretty well offroad, until her now current boyfriend drove it down a hill and ping ponged it off a bunch of trees till it landed in a creek.
Well... I pulled the trigger and ordered my Zone lift today. I've never installed a lift so any step by step write-up's that you guys know of would be very helpful. I know there are a ton out there.
I just did it last week. Same here, it was my first lift. I recommend downloading the instructions and reading through them, familiarize yourself with the parts, and make sure you have the tools you'll need. I did use some liquid wrench on some things; not sure how much rust you have. Need a torque wrench; I used a 1/2 inch and just used an adapter to 3/8 for a few. I also used a 1/2 air impact and did the same with that. A set of wobble extensions is good. Make sure you have jackstands and a few wood blocks. Charge up your cordless drill, or have a corded one ready for drilling bracket holes. Feel free to pm any questions during your install. I'll keep thinking about any tips that would be helpful.
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