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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Post Roll-Over PART II
I posted a thread yesterday regarding my post roll-over symptons and got a lot of help and sent me in the right direction but now i need just a little more.
i did a compression test with the help of a friend (which proved very difficult due to the lack of a distributor.... not really sure if i did everything right) and found one cyl to be almost 25-30 pounds different than the rest. a new head gasket is what i need apparently and i picked one up today... -Does anyone know of a website, tutorial, forum, or ANYTHING that can show me how to replace my head gasket... i'm totally lost on this and don't want to screw things up any more than they are. thanks for the help, -Justin
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#2 |
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Web Wheeler
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Copy and paste from the FSM.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued) ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD This procedure can be done with the engine in or out of the vehicle . REMOVAL (1) Disconnect negative cable from battery. WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR DRAIN COCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRESSURIZED BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT CAN OCCUR. (2) Drain the coolant and disconnect the hoses at the engine thermostat housing. DO NOT waste reusable coolant. If the solution is clean and is being drained only to service the engine or cooling system, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse. (3) Remove the air cleaner assembly. (4) Remove the engine cylinder head cover. (5) Remove the capscrews, bridge and pivot assemblies and rocker arms. (6) Remove the push rods. Retain the push rods, bridges, pivots and rocker arms in the same order as removed. (7) Loosen the serpentine drive belt at the power steering pump, if equipped or at the idler pulley (refer to Group 7, Cooling System for the proper procedure). (8) If equipped with air conditioning, remove the air conditioning compressor, (refer to Group 24, Heating and Air Conditioning) . (9) If equipped, disconnect the power steering pump bracket. Set the pump and bracket aside. DO NOT disconnect the hoses. (10) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release procedure (refer to Group 14, Fuel System) . (11) Remove the fuel lines and vacuum advance hose. (12) Remove the intake and engine exhaust manifolds from the engine cylinder head (refer to Group 11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold for the proper procedures). (13) Disconnect the ignition wires and remove the spark plugs. (14) Disconnect the temperature sending unit wire connector. (15) Remove the ignition coil and bracket assembly. (16) Remove the engine cylinder head bolts. Bolt No.14 cannot be removed until the head is moved forward (Fig. 26). Pull bolt No. 14 out as far as it will go and then suspend the bolt in this position (tape around the bolt). (17) Remove the engine cylinder head and gasket (Fig. 26). TJ (18) If this was the first time the bolts were removed, put a paint dab on the top of the bolt. If the bolts have a paint dab on the top of the bolt or it isn't known if they were used before, discard the bolts. (19) Stuff clean lint free shop towels into the cylinder bores. CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS CYLINDER HEAD GASKET Fig. 26 Engine Cylinder Head Assembly 8Oa534al INSTALLATION The engine cylinder head gasket is a composition gasket. The gasket is to be installed DRY DO NOT use a gasket sealing compound on the gasket. If the engine cylinder head is to be replaced and the original valves used, measure the valve stem diameter. Only standard size valves can be used with a service replacement engine cylinder head unless the replacement head valve stem guide bores are reamed to accommodate oversize valve stems. Remove all carbon buildup and reface the valves. (1) Remove the shop towels from the cylinder bores. Coat the bores with clean engine oil. (2) Position the engine cylinder head gasket (with the numbers facing up) using the alignment dowels in the cylinder block, to position the gasket. CAUTION: Engine cylinder head bolts should be reused only once. Replace the head bolts if they were used before or if they have a paint dab on the top of the bolt. (3) With bolt No.14 held in place (tape around bolt), install the engine cylinder head over the same dowels used to locate the gasket. Remove the tape from bolt No.14 . (4) Coat the threads of stud bolt No.11 with Loctite 592 sealant, or equivalent. (5) Tighten the engine cylinder head bolts in sequence according to the following procedure (Fig. 27). TJ REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued) CAUTION: During the final tightening sequence, bolt No.11 will be tightened to a lower torque than the rest of the bolts. DO NOT overtighten bolt No.11 . (a) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 30 N-m (22 ft. lbs .) torque. (b) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 61 N-m (45 ft. lbs .) torque. (c) Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61 N-m (45 ft. lbs .) torque. (d) Tighten bolts in sequence : " Bolts 1 through 10 to 149 N-m (110 ft. lbs .) torque. " Bolt 11 to 13 N-m (100 ft. lbs .) torque. " Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 N-m (110 ft. lbs .) torque. (e) Check all bolts in sequence to verify the correct torque. (f) If not already done, clean and mark each bolt with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you encounter bolts which were painted in an earlier service operation, replace them. CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS Fig. 27 Engine Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence (6) Install the ignition coil and bracket assembly. (7) Connect the temperature sending unit wire connector. (8) Install the spark plugs and tighten to 37 N-m (27 ft. lbs .) torque. Connect the ignition wires. 4.OL ENGINE 9 - 69 (9) Install the intake and engine exhaust manifolds (refer to Group 11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold for the proper procedures). (10) Install the fuel lines and the vacuum advance hose. (11) If equipped, attach the power steering pump and bracket. (12) Install the push rods, rocker arms, pivots and bridges in the order they were removed (refer to Rocker Arms and Push Rods in this section) . (13) Install the engine cylinder head cover. (14) Attach the air conditioner compressor mounting bracket to the engine cylinder head and block. Tighten the bolts to 40 N-m (30 ft. lbs .) torque. (15) Attach the air conditioning compressor to the bracket. Tighten the bolts to 27 N-m (20 ft. lbs .) torque. CAUTION: The serpentine drive belt must be routed correctly. Incorrect routing can cause the water pump to turn in the opposite direction causing the engine to overheat. (16) Install the serpentine drive belt and correctly tension the belt (refer to Group 7, Cooling System for the proper procedure) . (17) Install the air cleaner and ducting. (18) Install the engine cylinder head cover. (19) Connect the hoses to the engine thermostat housing and fill the cooling system to the specified level (refer to Group 7, Cooling Systems for the proper procedure). (20) The automatic transmission throttle linkage and cable must be adjusted after completing the engine cylinder head installation (refer to Group 21, Transmissions for the proper procedures). (21) Install the temperature sending unit and connect the wire connector. (22) Connect the fuel line. (23) If equipped with air conditioning, install air compressor and charge A/C system (refer to Group 24 Heating and Air Conditioning) . (24) Connect negative cable to battery. (25) Connect the upper radiator hose and heater hose at the engine thermostat housing. (26) Fill the cooling system. Check for leaks. WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING. (27) Operate the engine with the radiator cap off. Inspect for leaks and continue operating the engine until the engine
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Jarhead Jeep Club O|||||||O 97 Black TJ (one owner), BFG KM2 35s, 4.7L Stroker, ARB's, Dana60 rear, Dana30HP Front Warn manual hub conversion, 6 inch mostly Tera long arm lift. Rhino lined tub. Allied Rock 8 beadlocks. Tera-Low 4:1. Sanden OBA. Sniperfab tube fenders. My Build Thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-jeep-history-1997-present-1304114/#post12717920 |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Thank you very much stogie25
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Mortaritaville, Iraq (yeah, it sucks)
Posts: 1,885
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You tried to turn the engine over with the spark plugs in after righting it?
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#5 |
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Registered User
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you got it on the money
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#6 |
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Registered User
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can u copy and paste for me how do replace my rear main seal lol
__________________
RIP: 97' TJ on 35's (rolled) 03' Mustang GT Turbo Vert |
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#7 | |
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Registered User
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rear main seal
Quote:
that should help you out |
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