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Unread 05-23-2013, 08:34 AM   #31
SlackJaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beachbum1 View Post
Carpet for sound and a liner under it.
forgot he said he was gonna put the carpet back anyway....they make that stuff that is sticky and has like an aluminmum coating on it...I think it's cheap too...comes in a roll, cut and patch to fit. Awesome for sound AND heat. That is what the OP really needs if putting the carpet back in anyway.

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Unread 05-23-2013, 08:53 AM   #32
piperpilot3tk
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Location: Savannah, Georgia
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Make sure to treat the metal AFTER you sand it and BEFORE you paint it, or the rust WILL come back. I recently head of Picklex and used it some parts after sandbalsting and I was amazed at the results, way better than Ospho!

http://www.picklex.com/
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Unread 05-23-2013, 10:11 AM   #33
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Therios View Post
Funny that I was mounting a new light bar on my new bumper yesterday after I posted and I was using a ratchet that I plastidipped back in 1988. The stuff is a little worse for wear but was 70 bucks for the tall quart back then. But I bought several of then and did every tool that would take it at work and home. The only issue that I ever had is that it hardly EVER stuck. It always stayed on the tools because of their shape. The stuff on all shapes like slip joint pliers always slid off as the handle shape had nothing to hold it on. Not sure if this was because of the chromalloy or just the design of plastidip product itself. I will bet you can answer that question very shortly.
You have the real stuff, it goes on in very thick coats and works well. It is not even remotely similar to the spray crap that everyone is using instead of paint. The spray stuff in the same application as you used it would take about 20 coats over a period of several days to get close to the same build thickness and even then only be about half as durable.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 12:08 PM   #34
SolarOne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beachbum1 View Post
I cant find the name but there is a sound/heat liner made for hot rods/ classic cars with big motors/exaust. I know a guy that used it and it was awesome. Search web or summit.
Herculiner bed coat is good. Monstaliner is 2X the cost but not as rough. Your call. Carpet for sound and a liner under it.
Lizard skin, is the one, iirc. Most sound dampening companies sell those products. Most are just over priced elastomer (sp?) paint, the energy saving stuff used on walls facing the sun, rooftops, etc. Often mixed with bags of micro glass bubbles. (sold in hobby shops for model aircraft) Search the web for DIY mixes and save a bundle, those dampening paints will have you $200 into $20 of retail product..

Even then your Jeep will still sound like a box, just one with a lower resonant frequency. If you have a droning exhaust it'll just become more annoying while cruising. To sound "proof" you need to block incoming sounds of all frequencies. This requires several types of sound barriers, in car audio its usually vinyl and open cell foam. The paints and butyl or tar mats, reduce the resonant frequencies, mostly generated by speakers being mounted to/on the car's panels. The paints and mats don't do much to dampen outside noises. Maybe a bit when a 130 db Ti rice can flies by, at least I can hear some vehicles panels vibe when I blast past in my burner.

I had a luxury sedan that was once very quiet, everything (even the center console, glove box, wires wrapped, I mean everything..) was lined with open cell foam. Keep in mind foam will deteriorate and needs to be replaced every 5-10 years of normal use. Or our case every time the Jeep takes a bath in the creek Btw that vehicle had maybe 6 pieces of mat to knock out the resonant frequencies. Covering the car with butyl mats is just a wasted weekend, hundreds $ burnt, and a couple hundred more on the springs.

Edit: If I didn't like the noise, I'd start with a headliner first. That will probably have the single largest impact of your deadening project. < Assuming you've kept/put carpet back in. Otherwise its a toss between the two, depending on top (soft/hard) and the frequencies of the noises.
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Last edited by SolarOne; 05-23-2013 at 12:12 PM.. Reason: Forgot to add..
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Unread 05-23-2013, 01:05 PM   #35
Therios
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I used that sticky backed soundproofed when I redid the interior of my bugs as well as my 1954 dodge pickup. Never thought of even trying it in my jeeps. I guess the noise coming through any place that I could soundproof was always far quieter than the rest of the jeep. Even hard tops would be tough as they are just not made to be quiet. I think maybe there is a chance on models like the Cherokee that I had but then it was in good enough condition that the road Lise was really not noticeable.

Personally, I would not even consider noise insulation into any factor on my jeep. It just would not do any good and all that I can see is adding extra money. I would focus on something other than that as primary. I think at any appreciable speed, most of the Ouse would come from other sources that the pan. I may be wrong there. Would not be the first time!
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Therios Pendragon aka Ken Johnson
2003 maroon Jeep Wrangler SE - Soft top
Hard half doors
-New Bestop replacement
-Orfab front bumper (DONE)
-CRS rear bumper
-CRS rear bumper tire mount swing arm.
-led third light mods that sit in the two spare tire lug holes.
-because of above - removed ugly third light tower completely
-smitty top end grab handles
-20" LED light bar 10 degree spot (installed now and blindingly operational)
-50" LED light bar 20 degree flood ( changed to 30" in center 3 tabs, installed but not wired)
-windshield mount light bar (done)
-winch 8000# smitty
-Monstaliner complete pan in red head(as soon as they deliver it) (done)
-Carpet removed
-corbeau RS reclining seats
-corbeau water proof seat covers
-corbeau seat mount replacements (removes tilt forward passenger seat)
-AXD 430 receiver http://www.crutchfield.com/p_070AXD4...-Receiver.html
-hood hinge mount for my hi lift jack
-Headlight replacements
-tremendous mt 31.5/10.5 15s on nice alloy rims
-Everything else is stock... For now

-next items
Led dash replacements

Led square lights for 6 free mounting tabs
Led backup lights
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Unread 05-23-2013, 01:38 PM   #36
JEK3
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I had a friend who just went to the hardware store and bought roofing tar paper. He said it worked just as well as that mat stuff made for sound deadening (Soundmax?), and was about 1/100th the price.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 04:53 PM   #37
Bradleyselma
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Wow...that's awesome...and I decided not to do it after all I think only for now anyways because I'm not sure about my rust right now bi need to make sure i get it taken care of because my floor boards after I took out the carpet were kinda spongy :-(
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Unread 02-06-2014, 03:53 AM   #38
bpistone
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Research

Quote:
Originally Posted by JEK3 View Post
I had a friend who just went to the hardware store and bought roofing tar paper. He said it worked just as well as that mat stuff made for sound deadening (Soundmax?), and was about 1/100th the price.
I'd be careful, I've been doing some browsing and this this guys has been testing every company with their butyl/aluminum dampening products, here is his test on peel'n seel: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1944963-post250.html

His final results are not posted yet, but on 12/6/13 he posted this: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2009645-post18.html

I have emails out to http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com...product-prices

and

http://store.murdermat.com/mdk-series/

waiting to hear back.

I'm thinking of combining the CDL and the hotheads http://www.hotheadheadliners.com/ on the hard top and doing 25% coverage on the tub and doors.

I know most Jeepers don't care about the noise, and I usually crank my radio up, but there are major low frequency resonant pulses due to road noise and more aggressive tires that I never noticed with the soft top on. I was getting tinnitus on long trips, so I decided to measure the dB level and it's around 95-100dB. Not sure if I should wait to get the soft top on, but I resumed my searching yesterday after driving home through all the potholes due to the salt and plowing from all the storms we are having and I was fed up with the noise (and the weather).

If you read the main testing thread (currently 26 pages long and he says the report will be 120 pages!) and check out the SDS page, you get the gist of the theory. I'm not sure if I'm sold yet.

Did anyone on this forum do anything like this?

Hotheads sells a kit with some CDL tiles, but they didn't rank as well on the testing. I'm not sure how the testing relates to the plastic/fiber hard top, because they are testing with sheet metal. I'm just going by the resonant frequencies the butyl is treating most. Seems like the hardtop resonates from 80-150hz.

I'd love to hear from someone with the hotheads kit, and would also like to see before and after dB/frequency measurements.

If I purchase and install I'll post the results.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 09:33 AM   #39
Therios
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So I finally did my entire pan in monstaliner. I removed everything from the pan that could be removed. Taped off the door frame and masked the dash where I did not want it. I then just scuffed the old paint with kit included scuff pad. Then cleaned it with MEK replacement. Mixed half the stuff with half hardener. Then I rolled it on and brushed it where I could not get with roller. First coat was not solid as instructions indicated. Second coat was far easier.

I completely removed all carpet and/or liner. I just did not feel like taking care of it at all. Mud, grime, dirt, snow, water and ice just never made sense for me with carpet. I did it early last spring and have not had ANYTHING on the tub but the monstaliner. I am very very happy as there are no chips, peels, or anything bad and it is my daily driver as well. I just wash it all out. I have waterproof covers on my new carbeau seats and I just rinse the insides out with a light water stream and out the drain holes.

Is it loud - yup.
Is it trouble free - yup.
Would it be awesome to coverup rust or other nasties under covering - yup.
Did it help with raw noise - don't know as the soft top it too loud to hear the lack of tub noise.
Have rust or don't want rust - their chassis saver product is awesome! It is not uv stable though so it have to be hidden or works great under monstaliner if you follow directions.

The guys over at my 4wd shop love this stuff and have been one of those that have done the exterior as well as interior with monstaliner. It really does hold up better than anything that I have found.
__________________
Therios Pendragon aka Ken Johnson
2003 maroon Jeep Wrangler SE - Soft top
Hard half doors
-New Bestop replacement
-Orfab front bumper (DONE)
-CRS rear bumper
-CRS rear bumper tire mount swing arm.
-led third light mods that sit in the two spare tire lug holes.
-because of above - removed ugly third light tower completely
-smitty top end grab handles
-20" LED light bar 10 degree spot (installed now and blindingly operational)
-50" LED light bar 20 degree flood ( changed to 30" in center 3 tabs, installed but not wired)
-windshield mount light bar (done)
-winch 8000# smitty
-Monstaliner complete pan in red head(as soon as they deliver it) (done)
-Carpet removed
-corbeau RS reclining seats
-corbeau water proof seat covers
-corbeau seat mount replacements (removes tilt forward passenger seat)
-AXD 430 receiver http://www.crutchfield.com/p_070AXD4...-Receiver.html
-hood hinge mount for my hi lift jack
-Headlight replacements
-tremendous mt 31.5/10.5 15s on nice alloy rims
-Everything else is stock... For now

-next items
Led dash replacements

Led square lights for 6 free mounting tabs
Led backup lights
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floor board , noise , plasti-dip , rust , tub

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