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#16 | ||
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Quote:
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#17 |
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I usually get it as close as I can by shimming the outside of the bearings (just sticking the shims in between the bearings and the case). Then, use the same thickness of shim pack under the bearings on each side. If you do it right, it should come out perfect. If not, you should still be in the ballpark and only have to adjust it once.
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#18 |
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Alright this weekend I'm doing my front d30, because there was some confusion and the rebuild kit for the 44 didn't get ordered.
I'm assuming the build is pretty much the same, but I still have a few questions. Do I really need a micrometer caliper to measure the shims? and WHERE can I find an inch lb dial type torque wrench? I looked everywhere. rmbr I want to do this tomorrow, so mail order wont really work. What is the pre-load on a D30 pinion suppose to be? and I don't need the oil slinger, which is that large plate right? |
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#19 |
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I posted this link in your build thread, but evidently you didn't see it. It explains alot. Read it first, then determine if you can complete the task. Let me know if you have any questions.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/
__________________
ET48 1986 CJ-7 LAREDO, 4.2L, 5 speed, 3.31 Gears, D30, D44, 2.5" ProComp lift, 3" BL, 33" TSLs. 1998 TJ SAHARA, 4.0L, 5 speed, 4.11 Gears, D30 (Aussie Locked), Ford 8.8, 4.5" Custom LA, XRC8, AA SYE, TW DS, ZJ tie-rod, Full-Traction front adj. track bar, 35" KM1s. |
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#20 |
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alright i can't find this anywhere. When Setting bearing preload you are supposed to have the carrier in right?
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#21 |
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Registered User
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#22 |
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Registered User
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pinion preload
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#23 |
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#24 |
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great thanks
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#25 |
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took it for a test run today, seems to be ok, it didn't explode, or make any wierd noises. We'll see how they look in 50 miles
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