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Unread 05-12-2010, 08:15 PM   #1
RaggedOleMan
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Pinion Seal Replacement dana 30

2005 Jeep Tj, d30 - d35c, I-6, 6spd manual.

My rig has 119.5k miles on it. The overwhelming majority are hwy miles, but, it's seen its fair share of off road miles, too. Recently, while doing a grease job under it I noticed the front pinion seal was starting to leak. Well, at 119.5k that old seal deserved to be retired so I set forth to set it free...

Let me correct that. I've never done this procedure and so I sought out the help of someone who had, Bill M; 87YjBill. I took the following pictures and asked a boatload of stupid questions as Bill patiently responded, and allowed me to take photo's at each step. Thanks a million Bill! Here we go...



Removing the yoke strap bolts to drop the axle end of the front drive shaft. NOTE; That impact wrench is 950lbs.



Dropped the axle end of the front drive shaft.



With a punch, Bill marked the relationship between the pinion shaft and the pinion nut so that at reassembly it could go back together exactly the same way, so as to not change the pre-load.



Pinion nut removed with a good impact gun. Sorry, I forgot to note the socket size...for that matter, I didn't document any of the tools/sockets etc. I was to busy asking stupid questions and trying to get enough light to shoot the pics......



Removing the yoke required a few strategically placed blows...



The leaky seal.



Bill starts with a chisel to peel back an edge of the seal.



Here's the seal partly "peeled" back.



Next he gets a "Seal Puller" and prys the old seal the rest of the way out. With a little work, it comes out. I should mention that while doing this, Bill whacked the bejeebers out of his funny bone on the passenger LCA bolt...that was probably worth $10.00... :-)



Now he cleans up the yoke with a wire brush. At this point we run to NAPA to pick up the new seal he ordered the day before. While we were gone, we grabbed some lunch. Couple of huge Wally Burgers/Buckley, WA with fries and rings...



Here's the new pinion seal...hope you can read the part number...NAPA 15525



Carefully tapping in the new seal to seat it.



Time to put it all back together! Installing the yoke...



The pinion nut re-installation. Bill uses an impact gun to get it as close to lining up as possible. Removes the gun/socket and checks to see how close it is. He goes through this a few times before he gets it EXACTLY where it was when we started...



All that was left was to install the drive shaft and go for a test drive!

It went very smooth. No surprises. The cost of the pinion seal from NAPA was $7.70. Bills labor was $50.00. While we were under there we decided it was a good time to drill that top hole in the rear track bar relocation bracket and cinch it up. And...while we were poking around under there Bill noticed my passenger side M.O.R.E. 1" Bombproof (Rubber) motor mount never got completely bolted up/cinched. Seems when I installed them two years ago I forgot to finish bolting it up...what can I say? A rookie mistake! But, now it got caught and corrected! Oh, add another $30 to the bill for my screw-ups...

Thanks Bill, I'm sure you couldn't have done it without me... :-)



Last edited by RaggedOleMan; 05-16-2010 at 07:02 AM..
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Unread 05-12-2010, 08:22 PM   #2
TJdualsport
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looks good. exactly how i did mine
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Unread 05-12-2010, 08:30 PM   #3
_KONG_
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Did you check your vent tube to make sure there weren't any clogs that could cause your seal to fail again?
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Unread 05-12-2010, 08:35 PM   #4
vindicated
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you got a and a 5 star from me. This was complete. Is that seal the same as an 06'??? The one I bought for the job doesnt have that lip!
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Unread 05-12-2010, 08:40 PM   #5
mhodson187
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Good post just picked up a seal tonight to do my rear.
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Unread 05-12-2010, 08:40 PM   #6
RaggedOleMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KONG View Post
Did you check your vent tube to make sure there weren't any clogs that could cause your seal to fail again?
No, I didn't and I don't recall if Bill did either. Thanks for the heads up!

Quote:
Originally Posted by vindicated View Post
you got a and a 5 star from me. This was complete. Is that seal the same as an 06'??? The one I bought for the job doesnt have that lip!
Thank you vindicated...I don't know for a fact that the seal for the 05 and 06 are the same. Presumably, it is. That said, I believe you're correct in that the seal Bill removed didn't have a lip, but, the replacement one from NAPA did...

The part number from NAPA is; 15525 / Axle Pinion Seal. It was $7.70 w/tax. The list price on it was $10.21, but I think Bill gets/got a courtesy discount...
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Unread 05-12-2010, 08:52 PM   #7
vindicated
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well, some auto parts store here gave me #15788.. Now it makes me wonder...
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Unread 05-12-2010, 09:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vindicated View Post
well, some auto parts store here gave me #15788.. Now it makes me wonder...
There shouldn't be any difference in years. As long as the seal is for a TJ D30 you should be good

I have seen several different looking seals from different brands but they all do the same thing. I believe i got the dana spicer seal online somewhere for around $5
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Unread 05-19-2010, 08:30 PM   #9
cupojava
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I'm wondering if its just brand and/or price. I was given part 15791 from NAPA for the same thing, a pinion seal, and it was over $30. The part from the OP was less than $10. I haven't used mine yet, now I think I will take it back and switch to the other one.
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Unread 05-17-2011, 04:30 PM   #10
dlysle
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know this thread is a year old, but i searched Napa and Advance Auto web sites last night with no luck looking for a front d30 pinion seal, so i went to NAPA this morning to talk to them. they have no part listed for a front pinion seal for my '06 LJ. they listed a rear seal for a d35 and one for a d44. i had heard somewhere on here before that the front and rear were the same. a quick call to the local Jeep dealer parts guys and he said the rear d44 and the front d30 are the same seal, but the d35 is different. i got the one for the 44 and it's the same NAPA number listed above, 15525. i'll let you know if it fits this weekend.
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Unread 05-17-2011, 04:57 PM   #11
02OlllllllOTJ
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i dont know if its necessary but when i did my rear pinion seal i used a small bead of rtv around the seal before it was fully seated, tapped it in the rest of the way and cleaned up what oozed out. i did it that way because of a thread i read here on JF
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Unread 05-17-2011, 05:06 PM   #12
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Nice job.

I would add along with the NAPA part number you gave is if people go somewhere else to make sure they take the seal out of the box and make sure it has the lip like yours has. Some don't have the lip and make it almsot impossible to properly seat the seal.
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Unread 05-17-2011, 07:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02OlllllllOTJ View Post
i dont know if its necessary but when i did my rear pinion seal i used a small bead of rtv around the seal before it was fully seated, tapped it in the rest of the way and cleaned up what oozed out. i did it that way because of a thread i read here on JF
I do the same. Just a thin bead around the outside diameter of the seal where it seats in the axle housing.
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Unread 05-17-2011, 07:53 PM   #14
jbarrett
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Hey Guys - this is a good guide and I would like to try and follow it to replace my own pinion seal leak. I had a few questions.

1. This is for a Dana30 - I have a Dana35. I'm assuming it's the same.

2. How do you truly get the pinion nut back on? The service manual says before removing the nut, you need to measure the torque required to turn the yoke several times. Can you really (and accurately) mark the location of the nut prior to removal? What's the tolerance or room for error?

3. Does the new seal need to be "seated" with a special tool? I had heard that you need a "seal set" to correctly align the pinion seal because it needs to be perfectly centered.

Thanks!
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Unread 05-17-2011, 10:43 PM   #15
RaggedOleMan
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1. The d35 has a crush sleeve, the d30 does not.
2. We marked the location of the pinion nut in one of the photo's above.
3. I'm not aware of a special tool to set the seal, though there may indeed be one.

I'm also about to do my d35, the critical issue is the crush sleeve. By over tightening it, the crush sleeve will compress further, and change the relationship of the pinion gear to the ring gear.
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