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Unread 06-05-2003, 11:30 PM   #1
Polaris
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Pinion seal replacement

As time goes on, I get more and more fed up with my beloved TJ. The auto tranny has been rebuilt twice (under warranty, both times clutch packs and kickdown band, with the last being the torque converter as well.), a bad TPS, a camber alignment problem that never seemes to be remedied, and now, only after 46,000 miles the rear pinion seal is goin to poop. (sorry if this doesn't seem like much to gripe about, but I'm just blowin' off steam ) My question to you guys is if any of you all have had experience with changing this... this is an excerpt out of my Haynes manual:

11: Coat the threads of a new pinion shaft nut with multi-perpose grease and, using a holder to hold the flange, tighten the nut just enough to eliminate all end-play in the pinion shaft.
12: Turn pinion yoke to seat seal.
13: Using a torque wrench, see how much torque is required to turn the pinion shaft. The desired preload is the previously recorded value plus five in-lbs. If the preload is less than desired, retighten the nut in small increments until the desired preload is reached. If the maximum torque (plus five in-lbs reqiired to loosen the nut on disassembly) is reached before the preload figure is obtained, the bearing spacer must be replaced by a repair shop.
Note: do not back off the pinion nut to reduce the preload. Proceed to the next step after the preload is properly obtained.

I can understand everything up to this point (end-play, preload)... I am pretty good with tools and do all of the upkeep that my Jeep needs, but is this over most people's heads? I really want to save a few bones doing it myself rather than taking it somewhere. Any help would be appreciated!

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Unread 06-05-2003, 11:34 PM   #2
Jerry Bransford
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It reads to me like you're talking about the procedure for setting the pre-load and crush sleeve inside the axle housing on the pinion shaft. If you're really just talking about the pinion seal itself, that just taps with a seal setting tool (or a smooth-faced hammer, carefully used) in until it's flush with the case.
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Unread 06-05-2003, 11:45 PM   #3
Polaris
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jerry Bransford
It reads to me like you're talking about the procedure for setting the pre-load and crush sleeve inside the axle housing on the pinion shaft. If you're really just talking about the pinion seal itself, that just taps with a seal setting tool (or a smooth-faced hammer, carefully used) in until it's flush with the case.
Exactly... if you overtighten the nut (preload?) you run the risk of crushing the collapsable spacer and/or bearings. If that happens it says to take it to a shop. What I want to know is that if it's an easy enough procedure to take the risk... again, I really don't want to take it in anywhere (i'm 19 and have a lack of $ )

P.S. Just wanted to say thanks Jerry for all the help you've given me throughout all these posts
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2000 TJ Sport, 3-speed slushbox
HP30, ChroMoly shafts, Ford 8.8 rear, 4.10s 35s
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Last edited by Polaris; 06-05-2003 at 11:48 PM..
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Unread 06-05-2003, 11:57 PM   #4
Kodiak
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Just out of curiousity, what was your tranny doing (how was it acting) when you had to get it replaced?

Sorry, can't really help you with your pinion seal question. But, I may be able to email or fax to you the pages that describe the procedure in the FSM. PM me and I'll see what I can do.

Good luck.
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Unread 06-06-2003, 12:02 AM   #5
Polaris
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It slipped upon acceleration pretty harshly and during kickdown acceleration while highway driving
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Unread 06-06-2003, 12:13 AM   #6
Jerry Bransford
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Just tighten the pinion nut to 120 ft.lbs and you'll be fine. That's tight enough to hold it well but not so tight that it will hurt the crush sleeve. Try to use a new pinion nut though... pinion nuts aren't supposed to be reused.
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Last edited by Jerry Bransford; 06-06-2003 at 12:19 AM..
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Unread 06-06-2003, 01:05 AM   #7
Polaris
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Well damn... that sounds easy! Thanks!
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2000 TJ Sport, 3-speed slushbox
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