[Muddeprived]

I checked the faq's and did some searches but didn't find any write-ups on replacing the rear axle pinion seal. Mine started leaking due to the vibes from the sye and not adjusting the pinion angle (just ordered upper adjustables). I want to tackle this plm myself so can anyone point me to a good write up on this? I don't have a hayne's or chilton's manual.

[Jerry Bransford]

Getting it out without a pinion seal puller is just a matter of cutting (I usually just carefully cut it with a flat bladed screwdriver and hammer) it enough to be able to grab it with a set of visegrips and/or needle nose pliers and peeling it apart enough to get it out. It's basically removal by destruction. Be VERY careful not to nick or scratch the machined surface it must seat against though.

Use a Chicago Rawhide brand seal, since it is less prone to problems inserting it without damage, and then carefully tap it into place with a rubber mallet and/or a flat seal replacement tool. Try to avoid cocking it to one side, which is admittedly not easy to do, as you tap it into place.

I tackled my first one with about this same level of advice and got it done ok.

[Muddeprived]

Thanks jerry. I did see some posts throughout the forums but some of them differed from the others and was a bit confusing on which to follow. I did replace the wheel bearings on the rear axle and had to remove that seal which is similar tot he pinion seal (looks-wise). Should be an easy fix.....

we need bulletproof seals that never leak......but that takes all the fun out of it

[pushead]

I used a race kit to put mine on. I had rented it from auto zone to finish some work in my rear diffrential. The kit comes with multiple sized disc. One of them will be the same diamater as the outer rim on your seal. Line it up and smack it in. The race setters are made of aluminum too, so your seal wont take a beating.

[ColoradoSkier]

Be sure you check the torque setting on the pinion nut before you take it off. Very easy to over-tighten when re-installing, and that causes bad things (yes, speaking from experience).

[gksspot]

do a search, there is a jeep site called jeepinsingles or something like that and they have a decent writeup and pics

[deadman]

Here's how i do Pinion seals at the GM dealer. Mark the pinion to yoke relationship. Count the number of exposed threads(write it somewhere). Un bolt the yoke and remove it. Remove the seal---a seal remover from Sears Hardware works well. Install the new seal and reinstall the yoke in the same relationship to the pinion. Tighten the nut slowly until the same number of exposed threads show.

[Keith_C]

Originally Posted by deadman

Mark the pinion to yoke relationship.

Why would that matter ?
-=-=

[greenmachine99]

Originally Posted by Keith_C

Why would that matter ?
-=-=

So the drive shaft will bolt right back in place because nothing was moved.

[Spiderman]

AFter seeing a mechanic replace my rear seal in less than 10 minutes, I'll leave it up to the pros. Especially when you can mess up the rear end when you tighten up the pinion nut.

[JeepCrazyKid]

Originally Posted by Keith_C

Why would that matter ?
-=-=

not only the pinion to the yoke, but also matchmark the driveshaft to the pinion yoke. You want to put everything back together the way it was balanced.

[Keith_C]

Originally Posted by JeepCrazyKid

not only the pinion to the yoke, but also matchmark the driveshaft to the pinion yoke. You want to put everything back together the way it was balanced.

If the yoke was really balanced with the driveshaft, that'll be lost when replacing the driveshaft anyway.

[greenmachine99]

Its not balanced perfectly but a spline or 2 left or right will give you some vibes and you'll go through U joints.

[JeepCrazyKid]

who's replacing a driveshaft? he's doing a pinion seal.

[greenmachine99]

Originally Posted by JeepCrazyKid

who's replacing a driveshaft? he's doing a pinion seal.

Yes, well you have to take off the driveshaft to get to the pinion nut.