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Unread 09-06-2010, 08:51 AM   #61
PistolPete99
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im pretty sure the axle tubes slide in that far so i would think you would have a problem but for piece of mind i would cover them up with some jb

ph

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Unread 09-06-2010, 11:07 AM   #62
J03_TJ
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If you want to feel more secure, find someone who can bring a welder by and finish plug welding those holes. I am not sure with the time you have spent if I'd plug them with JB weld. I am thinking worst case. say a little rust starts growing in there with the JB weld over it. I don't know if it is a problem, but I would rather paint it like the rest and see if rust starts showing up in a year or so rather than plug it with JB weld and never know if the rust is growing in the holes. I am a little bit of a worry wart so, take my comment with some latitude.
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Unread 09-07-2010, 05:34 PM   #63
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Thanks for the replies! I had already applied the JB weld. I was investigating the hole with a flashlight and looking down the small crack where the axle tube enters the housing there. What I can tell is that the hole isnt part of the tube or the main housing. It looks like its part of the outer right side of the housing NOT where the gears are. So its basically the top of the shaft where the axle tube enters.
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Unread 09-11-2010, 08:42 PM   #64
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Update:

So I got tired of the monotonous sanding and wire brushing. So today I decided to switch it up for a moment. It was a nice change. I took off the drum backing plate and pulled out one of the axle shafts. I dremmeled off the bearing and shaft collar. I also slid the axle seal and 4 bolt retainer plate off. Surprisingly, it didn't take long at all. Saved me some money rather than taking it to a shop to pull them off. I have to buy new ones anyway..soo the cutting began. I did manage to nick the axle shaft with the dremmel cutting wheel though. oh well! The d@mn thing hit the edge off metal and jumped off and barely nicked the shaft. You can see the small nick in the shaft below. It isn't bad at all. I cut the shaft collar to the very bottom making sure not to go through. You can see in the 2nd picture the collar how close I cut down through it. While it was just about through, I made another cut to the side of it. I then put a flathead screwdriver in the slots and knocked them with a hammer. My idea here was to get the small metal left at the bottom to crack. Which it did. It then slid off with ease. I then slid off the other pieces. I will have to pay a shop to put the new bearing, seal and shaft collar on because I do not have a press. Atleast I saved money cutting them off. I'll probably do the other shaft tomorrow.





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Unread 09-11-2010, 09:30 PM   #65
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Mrblaine...if you're around. Is this what you are talking about? That I should buy the set 10 from a vendor that sells all 3 of these pieces together?? The bearing, seal and collar? Thanks
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Unread 10-03-2010, 05:51 PM   #66
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Update: its been awhile since I worked on the axle. Got busy doing other stuff. Plus, I was installing and prepping the "groundpounder" bumper/tire carrier.

Tonight, I took out the other axle shaft and dremeled off the collar, bearing and axle seal. Looks like I have 2 different axle shafts. Could the one with the longer slots at the top be the "chromoly" shaft?? Is it ok to run 2 different shafts like this??

Next up, purchasing new bearings, seals and shaft collars. Then I need to change the pinion seal, find and install disc brakes and then paint.





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Unread 10-04-2010, 10:30 PM   #67
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bump

mrblaine...can you comment on the above?? Also, I noticed on the savvy website that you sell these hose kits. According to stu's write up regarding disc brake conversion. It mentions this....

"Instead of the Currie brake hoses, you can use Mopar Part # 52128430AC and 52158431AB. These are the hoses for the disc brake rear axle on a TJ, and include a bolt on bracket that mounts on the spring perch, and the hard tube that goes all the way to the factory T fitting on the hose coming from the frame. They are obviously for a D44, but can be reshaped to work on the D35 if needed. This eliminates the need for welding the retainer bracket on, and double flaring the brake tubing. This makes it a bolt on proposition."


Now the brake hose kit you guys sell are different part numbers, close but not the same. Will those still work with the bolt on option including the bracket?? I cannot weld nor want to pay to have it welded and nor do I want to learn flaring. One more question, do you think I will need a proportioning valve?? or those brake line hoses go right to the T fitting is all I need?? Thanks...Appreciate it!
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Unread 10-04-2010, 11:27 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcoche View Post
Update: its been awhile since I worked on the axle. Got busy doing other stuff. Plus, I was installing and prepping the "groundpounder" bumper/tire carrier.

Tonight, I took out the other axle shaft and dremeled off the collar, bearing and axle seal. Looks like I have 2 different axle shafts. Could the one with the longer slots at the top be the "chromoly" shaft?? Is it ok to run 2 different shafts like this??

Next up, purchasing new bearings, seals and shaft collars. Then I need to change the pinion seal, find and install disc brakes and then paint.





Yes, you will be fine running those axles. I wouldn't bet one way or another on the one with the longer splines being chrome moly. It is aftermarket though. The other one is a stock axle.

If you're doing rear discs, you will need the Rubi version of the 4 bolt retainer. Yes, bearing, oil seal and shaft collar. Question the vendor to make sure you get all the pieces. Sometimes the seal is separate.

At this point though, a decent way to go would be to order from someone like Superior and get a set of their shafts. They will come with studs, all bearings and seals and can come installed if you let them know what you need. (any vendor should be able to do that) That will let you keep the current axles as spares and buy you some time to get the bearings and stuff put together.
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Unread 10-05-2010, 06:32 AM   #69
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Word of advice for quicker cleanup with a wire brush, go to HF and get a 4" angle grinder for 20 bucks and get a few 4" wire brush heads for it. Much faster than a drill with the high speed motor. I cleaned up a tractor with that setup. The problem with the drill is you can't put sufficient pressure on it evenly and the higher speed of the grinder really helps. Nice find. You should get some lottery tickets. Around here there is NO Dana 44's ever and the times that there is, it's a housing for a grand or a complete pair for over $3k.
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Unread 10-05-2010, 06:50 AM   #70
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better yet get an air grinder and flap wheel. cleaned up my bumper to bare steel very quickly. I have had very good luck with the brown industrial primer.. think rust-oleum... that you can buy at any hardware store. comes in an aluminum looking can and is pretty cheap. Painted my cage, bumper, winch, and diff cover and its holding up good.

Make sure you clean up the axle real good with Acetone.... all I ever use.

This writeup makes me want to get going on replacing my D35. The 44 is so tempting, but the 8.8 is just so cheap! Nice work tackling something like this with little mechanical ability (believe thats what you said)!



P.S: its much cheaper to get an axle rebuilt when it is out of the vehicle. If you dont want to tackle it yourself, bring it to a place and have all the seals and bearings replaced. That way you will never have to touch it again.
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Unread 10-05-2010, 07:49 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Yes, you will be fine running those axles. I wouldn't bet one way or another on the one with the longer splines being chrome moly. It is aftermarket though. The other one is a stock axle.

If you're doing rear discs, you will need the Rubi version of the 4 bolt retainer. Yes, bearing, oil seal and shaft collar. Question the vendor to make sure you get all the pieces. Sometimes the seal is separate.

At this point though, a decent way to go would be to order from someone like Superior and get a set of their shafts. They will come with studs, all bearings and seals and can come installed if you let them know what you need. (any vendor should be able to do that) That will let you keep the current axles as spares and buy you some time to get the bearings and stuff put together.


What do you recommend for the brake line and hoses you guys sell at savvy?? Also, the proportioning valve, will I need to grab one of those??

Thanks again, mrblaine!




Quote:
Originally Posted by krazymatt View Post
Word of advice for quicker cleanup with a wire brush, go to HF and get a 4" angle grinder for 20 bucks and get a few 4" wire brush heads for it. Much faster than a drill with the high speed motor. I cleaned up a tractor with that setup. The problem with the drill is you can't put sufficient pressure on it evenly and the higher speed of the grinder really helps. Nice find. You should get some lottery tickets. Around here there is NO Dana 44's ever and the times that there is, it's a housing for a grand or a complete pair for over $3k.

Yeah one of my buddies had recommened getting an angle grinder. That seems to be what I'm going to do. Cuz I am done with that drill and brush, taking forever. Or i'm just being anal!

I buy lottery tickets usually once a week. Wish I could hit that instead of finding this 44. I just watched craigslist every morning I woke up and throughout the day. I did get lucky! As soon as i seen it online. I couldnt email him quick enough.




Quote:
Originally Posted by austinaubinoe View Post
better yet get an air grinder and flap wheel. cleaned up my bumper to bare steel very quickly. I have had very good luck with the brown industrial primer.. think rust-oleum... that you can buy at any hardware store. comes in an aluminum looking can and is pretty cheap. Painted my cage, bumper, winch, and diff cover and its holding up good.

Make sure you clean up the axle real good with Acetone.... all I ever use.

This writeup makes me want to get going on replacing my D35. The 44 is so tempting, but the 8.8 is just so cheap! Nice work tackling something like this with little mechanical ability (believe thats what you said)!


P.S: its much cheaper to get an axle rebuilt when it is out of the vehicle. If you dont want to tackle it yourself, bring it to a place and have all the seals and bearings replaced. That way you will never have to touch it again.

Thanks! Yeah im not very mechanical. But, this is fun and I'm learning a lot trying to clean this axle up and replace parts. The brake lines and disc brakes are confusing and Im nervous about that. But, I think with some time and the awesome help from JF and mrblaine I'll be able to get it done.

The reason I didnt go with the 8.8 is because it would be more expensive than doing this 44. Plus, the 8.8 has C-clips. So then I would have dumped more money in to it to eliminate that with superiors 8.8 kit. So I think finding a used 44 and doing what i'm doing is the less expensive way and I get to learn.

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Unread 10-05-2010, 08:17 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by tcoche View Post
Also, the proportioning valve, will I need to grab one of those??

Thanks again, mrblaine!

Don't do anything with or to the prop valve until you drive it and find out you have a problem.
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Unread 10-10-2010, 03:25 PM   #73
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Continued a little work on the 44 today. I went to sears and bought a 3lb craftsman sledge hammer. Knocked all 10 of the studs out of the axle shafts. Getting ready for monday morning. I will be ordering all the pieces parts I need for the shafts from Morris 4x4 center. They have a blown up Dana 44 axle. You can scroll down and match up the parts you need. I'm getting the seals, bearings, retaining rings, new 10 disc brake version studs and the 4 bolt retainers. Getting closer!!

Oh yeah, I will also be ordering the brake lines I need from Savvy!


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Unread 10-10-2010, 08:34 PM   #74
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Looking at that last pic, it appears the one shaft is a Yukon. Look at the end, the shape of their logo is still there.

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Unread 10-10-2010, 08:42 PM   #75
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Looking at that last pic, it appears the one shaft is a Yukon. Look at the end, the shape of their logo is still there.

The other one is stock. No one that I've ever seen in the aftermarket does the drive indentation like that.
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