[OffCamberTJ]

I'm getting told by all the local parts stores that all 5 of the U-joints for both front and rear shafts are the same Brute Force part number. Is this true? And could anyone give me a quick education on the centering pin inside the cardian?

I don't have time to search because I'm at work but need these answers by the time I get off to be able to buy the parts so I can do the joint swaps tonight.

Thanks in advance!

[Jerry Bransford]

All of the TJ's driveshaft u-joints are the same 1310 series Mike. I would never buy a store brand u-joint, I'd go for the Spicer 5-153X (which is a 1310 series u-joint) which is their latest triple-sealed u-joint which is a very durable product. I removed my greasable u-joints Tom Wood installed when one went bad and replaced 'em all with the 5-153X.

[OffCamberTJ]

Well I'm sort of in a bind right now and don't have time to order. I'm buying Brute Force from a local supplier. I'll deal with the disadvantages.

[lupinsea]

The centering pin for the double cardan unit is it's own unique part. The centering pin is machined into the end of the front half of the drive shaft. It fits into a ball joint with a hole machined into the center that is filled with needle bearings. This ball joint in turn is held by a, er, yoke housing of sorts that interfaces with the "standard" u-joint and is held in place by said u-joint. When you bolt your front driveshaft up to the output yoke on the t-case, the bolts thread into the yoke housing thingy.

This is the ball-centering thingy, also called a ball centering unit.

IIRC, it's about $55 for the centering ball kit (the yoke housing thingy with the ball joint). The ones from Napa are no longer Spicer units but, like you, it's what was available when I needed to do the work and I didn't have time to order anything. The Napa unit is greasable, however, with a needle adapter for your grease gun.

The write-ups on Stu Olson's website was very helpful.

Write up #1 on Stu's website.
Write up #1 on Stu's website.

BTW, after doing one u-joint repacking with just a bench vise I then bought the u-joint tool mentioned in the writeups. Good lord, what a difference that made. It made the job muuuuuuuch easier.

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally Posted by OffCamberTJ

Well I'm sort of in a bind right now and don't have time to order. I'm buying Brute Force from a local supplier. I'll deal with the disadvantages.

I just went to my local driveshaft shop where they had a big box of them sitting on the shelf. They're easily found, usually as easily as a store brand.

[penguinland]

Jerry - I bought a 5-153x from the local 4x4 shop this evening and it is greasable. Any idea if there is some distinguishable marking on the box that would indicate the new triple seal non greasable design ?

[penguinland]

I went digging and came across SPL22-1X as the triple seal part #. can't find any online suppliers though

http://dtstulsa.com/driveShafts/parts.asp

[Jerry Bransford]

Oh crap I'm sorry, I just looked at the spare u-joint box for my driveshaft I referenced earlier and it was one of my older greasable u-joints. The corrected part number for the triple-sealed Spicer is 5-625X but apparently Spicer has a new p/n that they're starting to use for it now which is SPL22-1X. There's a Spicer brochure at http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/Spicer%20driveshaft%20u-joints.pdf

[penguinland]

Any idea how much and were to get them? I called the local 4x4 shop that is a Spicer dealer and they don't list either #

[Jeepin' Rock Cl]

As Jerry said, go to a driveshaft shop. They'll have it.

I found Spicer u-joints at my local driveshaft shop CHEAPER than the crappy brands @ AutoZone. ($18 ea)