Parasitic draw - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 06-20-2014, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
Potterguy
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Parasitic draw

I have a parasitic draw of 1.22A and I noticed that the interior floor lights wont turn off but both door switches seem to work because when I open either doors the draw goes up to 1.33A so I unplugged the lights and the draw went down to .19A which is good but the chimer start beeping regardless of key not being in ignition or headlights not being on so is the chimer shorted out through the lights and if so where could it be and how do I get the lights to turn off? and why is the chime even going off without the key in or headlights on?

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post #2 of 13 Old 06-20-2014, 04:11 PM
Rubi4MyMrs
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Couple of questions. Did the key-in chime start staying on when the lights started staying on or when you unplugged the lights? If you pull fuse 4 from the fuse block behind the glove box & plug the lights back in do they stay off & the chime is off too?
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post #3 of 13 Old 06-21-2014, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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The light and chime are both happening at the same time but the chime is not audible until I unplug the floor lights and I can't pull number 4 fuse right now it's at my job where my tools are and nobody is there this weekend to open up the shop but I will on Monday and I checked the door switches and both are working fine is there anywhere I could get a diagram of the dinger and floor lights?
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-21-2014, 06:37 PM
Rubi4MyMrs
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My question is did the chime start staying on when the dome lights started staying on or did the chime start staying on when you unplugged the dome lights?

You have that circuit getting grounded when it shouldn’t. Fuse 4 continues the normal ground path if in. Pulling the fuse is the way you get the dome lights to stay off when the doors are removed which also disables the chime. Knowing whether pulling the fuse keeps the lights/chime off or not will help isolate the problem.


see the interior lighting chapter in this link for a diagram of the circuit.





See online read only FSMs here:
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowled...ex.htm#service
You may have to go to the bottom of the page & pick Jeep Resources & online manuals if it directs you to home page rather than the knowledge base.
Pick your model & year then on the drop down menu pick the chapter you need.
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post #5 of 13 Old 06-23-2014, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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ok yes both the chime and lights happened at the same time but as long as the lights are plugged in you cant hear the chime but I can see it when trying to conduct a parasitic draw test my test light flashes but I don't see a difference in amperage on my voltmeter I already replaced my instrument cluster as I saw a burn spot on my odometer screen and that took away the problem of having a 3.45A draw on my battery now i'm down to lamps and chime any idea where they could cross?
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post #6 of 13 Old 06-23-2014, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE

dinger only happens as above stated with lights and I also have to have my test light in circuit so the instrument cluster either fixed the buzzer or its just a "low battery" chime right now because only a limited amount of amperage/ voltage can pass through the test light could be wrong I just need to see why lights don't turn off and it has a short to ground before fuse 4 so Im going to trace wires and see I tried a continuity test to see if the lights on either side shared anything in common and got no continuity for power and ground so I might have to trace each side individually makes me kinda curious though
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post #7 of 13 Old 06-23-2014, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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I have checked power and ground on the female receptacles for fuse 4 and I have .o1 ohms on ground and I have with both doors closed 9.95v on power and with only passenger open I have 9.75v and with only driver open in have 9.89v and with both open I have 9.89v now I also checked to see if power side had any continuity to ground and there is none completely stumped and I looked through the wiring diagrams I didn't see one that was actually for the floor lights inside the car
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post #8 of 13 Old 06-23-2014, 11:45 AM
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I hate to be that guy, but punctuation really does go a long way to conveying your thoughts in written form.

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post #9 of 13 Old 06-23-2014, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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yea srri I sliced open my pointer finger trying to remove the electrical tape so im finger pecking
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-23-2014, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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I think I replaced the bad instrument cluster with another bad instrument cluster anyone know how to fix an internal short on the circuit board for the ground between the yellow wire coming in and the tn and tn/yl wire coming out or should I just hard wire it?
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post #11 of 13 Old 06-23-2014, 01:06 PM
Rubi4MyMrs
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You have direct power from fuse 24 to each of the dome/courtesy lights but the ground side goes to the cluster (yellow wire). Then there are output wires from the cluster (tan & tan/yellow) that go to the door switches & from the switches to fuse 4 then from fuse 4 to ground. After the cluster there are separate wires to the doors so if the lights are staying on with both doors closed the short must be before the cluster where the ground wire is common to all lights. The yellow wire is the one to trace.



Added since your last post. Unplug the cluster connectors & see if the lights go out. If yes then the short is in the cluster, if no then the short is in the yellow wire.
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post #12 of 13 Old 06-23-2014, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
Potterguy
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that was the problem in the cluster both of them
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post #13 of 13 Old 06-23-2014, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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tnks for your help
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chime , ignition , lights , parasitic draw

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