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Unread 08-30-2014, 01:30 PM   #1
glwood6
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Paint repair

I need to paint the top of my ds front fender where the PO got battery acid on the fender and the paint has a few spots where it is down to the primer. To repaint this after doing some bodywork to smooth out the spots, is there a clear coat on top of the stone white paint?

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Unread 08-30-2014, 04:26 PM   #2
2jhanna
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probably some clear coat, but not sure.

Are you going to just use some DupliColor spray?

You can always do the white base color and then clear coat if you need to. DupliColor also has a clear coat.

Edit, glwood, pm sent on different subject.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 08:17 AM   #3
glwood6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2jhanna View Post
probably some clear coat, but not sure.

Are you going to just use some DupliColor spray?

You can always do the white base color and then clear coat if you need to. DupliColor also has a clear coat.

Edit, glwood, pm sent on different subject.
Got your pms, hope you find what you need.

That is what I'm trying to figure out. Once I fix the depressions on the fender where the paint is missing, I need to probably paint the whole fender, and am wondering if you need a clear coat on top of the white on this color Jeep. I plan to try something like Duplicolor, yes.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 09:46 AM   #4
2jhanna
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I guess it depends on if you want a "perfect factory finish" look when you are done or not. I am not the one to give advice for a factory finish look. I don't have the "finesse" or patience.

I have painted a set of half doors with the DupliColor. A couple of cans or color match blue and a can of clear coat. Definitely not factory but looks ok for the $25-30 I spent. Probably the best touch job I did was on my daughters RAV4 bumper cover that got scuffed.

My approach for what you describe would be to sand as smooth as possible, maybe some sandable/filler primer, lightly sand again and then spray a few light coats of color and then clear coat if needed.

One other point, when I did my half doors, the DupliColor color match blue was a shade off. This didn't surprise me too much, given the age of my paint and aftermarket paint. I did find out, that some O'Riellys part stores have In house paint mixing. They will do a computer color match of the vehicle (like Lowes/Home Depot do) and put the matched paint in a spray can for you. I think the first can is like $30 and additional cans are like $20. I think most auto paint places can do this. Like I said above, just depends on how perfect you want it to look like when you are done.

Good luck and thanks for pm's.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 10:02 AM   #5
3X4X4
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Nothing that comes out of a spray can that you buy from a shelf can or will match factory paint. Even the crappy factory paint of today's EPA regulated world is many times more solvent and UV resistant than any paint that you purchase for a few bucks in a rattle can.

All quality, durable paints are two part composition and must be mixed prior to use. In the old days before lead was not allowed in paint, there were air dry enamels and they were quite good. But that era is long gone. Between the EPA and the druggies sniffing spray paint, all the good stuff was regulated out.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 03:10 PM   #6
glwood6
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The paint on my '03 TJ is in fairly good condition, but I wouldn't call it great. The hood has some wrinkles and a few places where the paint has chipped off on the wrinkled spots; the ps door has a gouge in it, looks like a tree branch got it; then the battery acid spots on the ps fender. I took it to a paint & body shop, and they quoted me $800 to fix all the places and repaint them. Hood, fender, and door. I think what I will do is pick up a can of primer, white in my paint code, and clear coat, and then try it on some sheet metal to see how it looks. If close enough, I will try it on the fender.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 08:08 PM   #7
3X4X4
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I had the same issue. The PO spilled acid or something on top of the PS fender and the paint was ruined. I may eventually repaint or go Line-X but what I did thus far was paint the top with the Duplicolor rattle can bed liner. Not the water based but the other one. Duplicolor has a similar product, water based, in a rattle can and it is really good on flat horizontal surfaces but too runny for my tastes. This has been on nearly two years now and is holding up fine and looks good. I use the stuff on my OEM bumpers and light hoop with good results. I have had very good luck with the Duplicolor on other vehicles. I like it. I did the tops of both front fenders:



But, as I said in my other post, while this stuff is pretty good for rattle can, it is not real Line-X or two part product. It is also very, very easy to touch up. Notice my bug/rock deflector is painted with it also.

J
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Unread 08-31-2014, 09:47 PM   #8
glwood6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3X4X4 View Post
I had the same issue. The PO spilled acid or something on top of the PS fender and the paint was ruined. I may eventually repaint or go Line-X but what I did thus far was paint the top with the Duplicolor rattle can bed liner.
I might've taken you up on this idea if Duplicolor made white spray bedliner.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 09:56 PM   #9
OldGloryLJ
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I painted my full corners using rattle can from this co.
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint.asp

It's not perfect match, but pretty close in person. Paint shop likely won't be able to color match perfectly either. If you want paint shop durability however, you'll need to use the 2 part 2K clear coat they also have in rattle can. It's more expensive but the cheaper 1K stuff you find most places does not hold up well, especially if exposed to gasoline or other solvents. Painting it yourself is a bit of work though...be prepared for a lot of sanding and polishing for a nice finish. $800 for might not sound so bad after you do it.

600_349560682.jpeg
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Unread 08-31-2014, 10:05 PM   #10
glwood6
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Thanks for the link for the paint. Back to my original question - on a white Jeep, do you do the base coat and a clear coat to match the original paint job (as close as the paint will match)?
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Unread 09-01-2014, 09:04 AM   #11
ky-homelite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glwood6 View Post
Thanks for the link for the paint. Back to my original question - on a white Jeep, do you do the base coat and a clear coat to match the original paint job (as close as the paint will match)?
I would think a bc/cc would be what came on the Jeep from the factory. Off the top of my head, I'm not sure of any vehicles that didn't come with this paint type in the last 20 years or so.
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Unread 09-01-2014, 09:10 AM   #12
Jeff88
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Find a decent automotive paint store that you can go to, have them look at your paint and most can make you a rattle can of spray to match pretty closely.

I have used this technique for much harder to match colors than white.

You will find out, all white is not the same white. You need someone to mix the paint that knows which variants to use.

Even better, prepare the body work and find a local car dealer, they all employ someone who does their minor paint repair work. The right person will do this job and you will never even know it was there. They will be able to use their paint mixing system to match the paint better than you ever will from a can. A little bit of cash goes a long way with these guys.

Many of them are artists who take pride in doing lot repairs that are not visible.
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Unread 09-01-2014, 09:57 AM   #13
OldGloryLJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glwood6 View Post
Thanks for the link for the paint. Back to my original question - on a white Jeep, do you do the base coat and a clear coat to match the original paint job (as close as the paint will match)?
Yes, you order base coat PW1 (stone white) plus clear coat. That's the factory color.

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/tou...2003/wrangler/
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