[scrappy]

I have replaced the following: radiator (3 core metal), flowcooler, 195 thermostat, hoses, temp sensor, and fan clutch. can anyone tell me why I still get to the red when i pull my utility trailer with my 4 wheeler?

[ocezam]

Originally Posted by scrappy

I have replaced the following: radiator (3 core metal), flowcooler, 195 thermostat, hoses, temp sensor, and fan clutch. can anyone tell me why I still get to the red when i pull my utility trailer with my 4 wheeler?

What's a "flowcooler"? Water pump?

.

[scrappy]

yes. its a hi flow water pump.

[jeep_chinto]

normal driveing conditoins it doesnt over heat?

possably a warped head and by the extra straine of pulling the trailer forces exaust gasses into the antifreeze..

if u have ur engin off n cool pop the radiator cap off start the jeep up be under the hood hit the throttle see if the anti freeze gets pushed out of the radiator or if u see bubbles..

also see if u have water / anti freeze in ur oil

[scrappy]

normal driving is fine. no water in oil. when it hit the red the first time, check gauges came on and it went to the red but no further. i pulled over right away and it it instantly came back to 210. i thought it was very strange because it couldnt have cooled off that fast. then a couple miles later it happened again. and then every few minutes. i figured it was the thermostat or the temp sensor, so i replaced both along with the fan clutch. then when pulling the 4 wheeler again to camp, check gauges again with the same fast cooling results. any ideas????

[HVACman]

I know there is still some debate around about 3 core vs oem. I can Tell you from first hand experience that a 3-core was worse at cooling than the oem radiator. After installing a Novak aluminum radiator and adding some Redline "Water Wetter", my cooling problems went away.

[bdkjones]

Without being there to judge how hot the engine really is when you pull over, I'd say this sounds like an electrical problem. It's possible that the sensor you installed is bad. It's also possible that there is an intermittent short in the wires somewhere that is causing the sudden red-lining on the temp gauge.

The reason I suspect this is because the problem is not consistent. There just isn't that much to a cooling system. As long as the thermostat opens, the lines are free of clogs, and the water pump is working... you shouldn't be overheating. Since your pump and radiator are brand new, odds are they're fine. Since you're not overheating all the time, your lines are not clogged. And, while it's possible that the thermostat is not working correctly, I would expect the engine to consistently overheat if that were the case.


And, for what it's worth, I agree with HVACman. As long as it's all-metal, stock radiators are the way to go.

[Jeeples]

Are you sure your radiator cap is ok?

The radiator cap is what helps regulate the pressure in your cooling system. It is highly possible that the cap is not holding pressure, and under the high RPM's of freeway speeds the impeller on your water is causing cavitation issues and not properly circulating the coolant throughout your entire system. Then under normal/idle conditions there is enough pressure in the system to allow the water pump to perform its' job.

[mdm]

May sound a bit strange, but have you checked the trailer. How are the wheel bearings? Are the tires rubbing? Friend of mine burned up the drive belt on his ATV pulling a trailer around. Turned out the trailer wheels were barely turning because of the bearings.

[Doatman]

Listen to HVACman and Jeeples. First, try a new radiator cap. If the problem still exists (which I expect, especially when towing), get rid of the copper core and get an OEM (they have aluminum cores) or an all aluminum radiator.

I had the exact same problem you are having and I had a brand new all metal radiator from Radiator Barn (plus everything else was new). I can't tell you how much money and frustration I went through trying to keep my TJ cool. A Howe all aluminum radiator from Novak was the fix, there are other all aluminum radiators and other dealers, just get rid of that copper core radiator.

Good luck.

[scrappy]

i will get a new radiator cap today. The radiator was under suspect from the start. everyone says radiator barn. when my oem started leaking i just called them and they sent the 3 core. so the one i have does not have an aluminum core, and that is what i want? do they sell a non plastic oem with aluminum core? if so, where is the best price on one?

[igofshn]

I have a radiator barn radiator and have never had a problem. I regularly tow a 2k boat. temps always stay at 210.