Outboarding rear shocks AND upper spring bucket relocation - Page 6 - JeepForum.com

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post #76 of 607 Old 12-22-2009, 11:47 PM
cgmrdc
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youll be fine... couple pages back i posted a pic of my outboarded shocks... they were done with a 110 flux core. so were all the brackets on my 8.8...

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post #77 of 607 Old 12-23-2009, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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The holidays have put a damper on my garage time. Ill be knocking out the shock relocation portion of this project on Saturday.

Are there any specific pics anyone wants to see while I am doing it?
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post #78 of 607 Old 12-26-2009, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Hope everyone had a great Christmas. Our company left this morning and I was able to get some garage time in. This project wouldn't take nearly as long, but my garage is right below my daughters room and nap time is from 12-3 daily. Add in the fact that I'm a courteous neighbor and don't start making noise till 9 and it gets too dark to work around 5...hehe..kinda limits the garage time. Anyway:

Today I made the lower shock mounts. A good friend once told me, "If you cant make them out of cardboard, you sure as hell can't make them out of metal." Following that advice, I broke out the duct tape and cardboard and figured out my shapes and angles. (Sorry no pics.)

The first thing I did was figure out the angle I wanted the lower shock pin at. I chose 17* because that's what my control arm angle is:


I then transferred the cardboard cut outs to some 2" x 4" x 3/16" thick rectangle tube I had. I cut them out with a grinder and shaped them up with a flap disc. Ended up with these:


They will be offset inboard to clear my rear disc brake caliper:


Mock up is close enough to 17* for me:


Fired up the welder and put the scald to them


As a side note, I have found showing pictures of my welds online is a funny thing. They say the camera adds 20 lbs to people. It also make my welds look 10x worse.

Once I got them welded up I went about drilling the holes for the shock studs. I quickly realized that I was fresh out of 5/8" drill bits Luckily for me, a quick phone call to Jerry Bransford (He's the local "That cool guy that has every tool know to man") and I was in business! Thanks Jerry, you're a life saver

Lots of cutting oil and slow drill speed. Jerry snapped a picture. I offered to let him be in it, but he politely said no. (He will deny it, but it was obvious he didn't want his picture taken with my welds Don't blame you man!)


Here's what I ended up with:


I'll weld them on in the morning.
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post #79 of 607 Old 12-26-2009, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J03_TJ View Post
Can anyone tell me if a 110v Mig with flux core would be good enough to re-mount the upper spring mount. Was thinking at a minimum it could be used to tack weld the thing in place and a street drive over to a friends house with a 220v machine?? Not sure if the pad gets that much side loading/stress, just shoved against. Anyone?
What machine?

A cheapo HF ticky tack welder will take a while due to such low duty cycles or will have terrible cold welds if you push it. Most name brand 110 welders will do 3/16 using 30-35 flux core wire and produce decent results. Try to use a dryer electrical outlet or something close to the breaker box if able, and avoid using any type of extension cords.


My 2c

Old stretch thread: http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403448
New stretch thread: http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=48591
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post #80 of 607 Old 12-26-2009, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Humboldt View Post
HopA good friend once told me, "If you cant make them out of cardboard, you sure as hell can't make them out of metal." Following that advice, I broke out the duct tape and cardboard and figured out my shapes and angles. (Sorry no pics.)
nice freakin' work man. the duct tape and cardboard is awesome. i've been using it to make templates for HPD30 stuff. makes life much easier!
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post #81 of 607 Old 12-26-2009, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atxzj View Post
What machine?

A cheapo HF ticky tack welder will take a while due to such low duty cycles or will have terrible cold welds if you push it. Most name brand 110 welders will do 3/16 using 30-35 flux core wire and produce decent results. Try to use a dryer electrical outlet or something close to the breaker box if able, and avoid using any type of extension cords.


My 2c
It's a Lincoln Weld Pak 100HD, some of the literature says 100 amps, but the front of the unit has 88 amps listed. From the inside cover it states that multiple passes are required if .135 or thicker. I measured the spring pad to be just at .100 thick. Was hoping since the mounts are at about .100 that a single pass would work. Maybe pre-heat the frame a little to help since it's pretty cold in my garage?? Also, I found a good outlet in my garage with 110v and 20A breaker. thanks!
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post #82 of 607 Old 12-27-2009, 07:42 AM
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wow I will definatly doing this soon because I have absolutly no uptravel with my RC shocks. Awesome job!


I shouldve did it last week when I tore my upper mount up playing in the 20" of snow

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post #83 of 607 Old 12-27-2009, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Humboldt View Post
A good friend once told me, "If you cant make them out of cardboard, you sure as hell can't make them out of metal." Following that advice, I broke out the duct tape and cardboard and figured out my shapes and angles.
That cardboard technique obviously does the trick for you Joe as your shock mounts were great & other fabrications always turn out awesome. I need to start getting smarter like that for fabricating parts. My cut-grind-weld-weld-weld-weld-grind-grind-grind-grind-grind-paint method could certainly use some improvement.

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post #84 of 607 Old 12-27-2009, 11:27 AM
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This is an awesome thread, I cant wait to see this completed.
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post #85 of 607 Old 12-27-2009, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the encouragement!

Today I started by hacking off the stock lower mounts. I do mean hack. I just cut off as much as I could with a grinder then bent them away from the lower control arm mounts so I'd have room to weld. I'm not even close to aesthetic cleanup yet

Here's the lower control arm support/lower shock mount in place:


Once that was in place, I bolted up a shock and put the axle back at ride height:


BREAK: The most important tool i used today was a white china marker. You can see it in the pick above. Its basically a white crayon grease pencil. Its PERFECT for marking. Waterproof and writes on damn near everything. It's also resilient to hot sparks. Sharpies are hard to see and fade quickly in heat. You can get a box of a dozen for a couple bucks that will last your lifetime.

I started on the passenger side because of the track bar mount. If I can make it work on the pass side, the drivers side will be easy to copy as there is nothing over there to interfere.

I cycled the suspension and took every measurement I could. Blaine mentioned I should leave 7/8" on the top side of the frame rail and 1/4" on the bottom of the frame rail with the bottom flared out 1/2" on each side. This will tip the top of the shock out and make a bit more room at the bottom.


I don't have a plasma cutter, so I broke out the trusty angle grinder, crossed my fingers and started cutting. If you are not skilled with cutoff wheels, you're in for a bad day doing this It's like grinder gymnastics. My old friends the track bar bracket and bolt were back and in my way yet again. I loosened the track bar bolt and slid it back as far as I could to make room.

Roughly where she will go:


Roughly full droop:


My dilemma right now is deciding if I want to cut down the Currie lower bump stop to get some extra up travel. Right now it stops the tire about 1" from the wheel opening. I figure I could shave 3/4" to 1" off the top and be fine. That would get me my 5" of up travel I was looking for. The spring looked like it wouldn't be too terribly over compressed if I did. Thoughts?
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post #86 of 607 Old 12-27-2009, 01:42 PM
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Why is the hole cut in the frame so much wider than the shock tower bracket?

35" MTR Kevlars
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post #87 of 607 Old 12-27-2009, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Once I weld the top and bottom in, I will bend the tower to match the opening with a big hammer then weld the sides shut. This gives a bit more room for the shock to move. The tower is just sitting there in the pictures. The gap is not as big as it looks, 1/2" max at the bottom on each side.
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post #88 of 607 Old 12-27-2009, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UTWeezul View Post
Why is the hole cut in the frame so much wider than the shock tower bracket?
the ford towers are too narrow for most shocks, especially on SA kits. You tack the top section in and flare the lower like a bell for a little more clearance.

Old stretch thread: http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403448
New stretch thread: http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=48591
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post #89 of 607 Old 12-27-2009, 03:23 PM
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those are just the Ford towers right?

Stretched TJ , Coil overs, 42" IROKS, 60/14 bolt...
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My TJ Build Thread.
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TJ Rear Dana 44 shaftsfor sale
3 11"& 2 13" BBCS shocks



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post #90 of 607 Old 12-27-2009, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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those are just the Ford towers right?
Yes. Same ones as on Stu's site.
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