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Unread 12-20-2009, 09:12 PM   #46
Humboldt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by provelogear View Post
Joe,

You going to have that done so you can come out at the end of the year?

Hope you can make it.

Gerald
Definately.

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Unread 12-20-2009, 11:06 PM   #47
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So the ford shock towers are perfectly fine if you are outboarding with standard shocks?
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Finesse in crawling looks way cooler than momentum.
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Unread 12-21-2009, 07:34 AM   #48
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Nice work.

I'm doing this mod hopefully real soon. I have a set of Bilsteins that I'd really like to get installed, but I need to move the mounts first.
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Unread 12-21-2009, 07:40 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep02Apex View Post
So the ford shock towers are perfectly fine if you are outboarding with standard shocks?
Let me guess, you just like to look at the pictures? From post #12

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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
He's not going to be running anything but the normal style shock bushings. If you run the Fox or similar style, then it's not worth the effort that it takes to modify the top of the Ford tower to get them to fit. With his normal shocks, he just has to drill out the holes to 1/2" and he's good to go.
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Unread 12-21-2009, 08:10 AM   #50
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I'm in the process of doing this to my TJ right now. I'm notching my stock skid and reforming the tank to get about 3-4" of stretch. I'm doing a dual-triangulated longarm at the same time and this is perfect for keeping the stock upper mounts I actually started cutting the welds off on Saturday Morning so it looks like that was the day to start this I'm going to finish cutting the welds later this week once I get back out to my garage
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Unread 12-21-2009, 08:10 AM   #51
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whats the advantage? Is it the ability to run longer shocks?
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Unread 12-21-2009, 08:16 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Ej132 View Post
whats the advantage? Is it the ability to run longer shocks?
When I invented this modification, I did it first to move the very vulnerable lower shock mounts up out of the rocks. If you move the bottom of a shock up and keep the same OA length and travel, the top has to move up as well.

In the OEM location, there's no room to move up and with most normal backspacing on the rims, there's no room to fit a shock between the frame and tire. That means clearance has to be made somewhere.

The other two benefits are the ability to fit a longer shock in there for more travel and surprisingly, it improves the ride and handling a fair bit as well as well as practically eliminating that annoying back and forth TJ jiggle you get crossing driveways at angles when you pull into parking lots.
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Unread 12-21-2009, 08:21 AM   #53
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ok, very interesting, thanks mrblaine
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Unread 12-21-2009, 08:22 AM   #54
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Let me guess, you just like to look at the pictures? From post #12
Nope, I read that...I just wanted to make sure. Nothing wrong with double and triple checking. But I do like the pictures
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Unread 12-21-2009, 08:29 AM   #55
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How do you decide where the the mount is placed? I've seen this method:



Just wondering if it's the same for the Ford towers and what difference your lower mounts make as well.

Where did you buy the Ford towers and how much are they?
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Unread 12-21-2009, 08:38 AM   #56
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How do you decide where the the mount is placed? I've seen this method:


Just wondering if it's the same for the Ford towers and what difference your lower mounts make as well.

Where did you buy the Ford towers and how much are they?
At ride height, you use a square to make a line, 90 degrees to the line created by the two lower control arm mounting bolts.

The towers can be bought at the Ford dealer. The part number is on Stu's write-up. I have a pair that I need to get rid of if you are interested. I think I paid $17 a piece.

Cheers, Mike
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Unread 12-21-2009, 08:41 AM   #57
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How do you decide where the the mount is placed? I've seen this method:



Just wondering if it's the same for the Ford towers and what difference your lower mounts make as well.
Roughly, you'd like them at about 90° to the lower control arms at right height. Assuming you're normal and have approximately the same up and down travel, you will push the bottom of the shock back at stuff and pull it forward at droop.



Quote:
Where did you buy the Ford towers and how much are they?
He got the ones in this thread from me and we sorta swap stuff back and forth. He takes care of me and I take care of him.
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Unread 12-21-2009, 08:44 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
When I invented this modification, I did it first to move the very vulnerable lower shock mounts up out of the rocks. If you move the bottom of a shock up and keep the same OA length and travel, the top has to move up as well.

In the OEM location, there's no room to move up and with most normal backspacing on the rims, there's no room to fit a shock between the frame and tire. That means clearance has to be made somewhere.

The other two benefits are the ability to fit a longer shock in there for more travel and surprisingly, it improves the ride and handling a fair bit as well as well as practically eliminating that annoying back and forth TJ jiggle you get crossing driveways at angles when you pull into parking lots.
There's another HUGE benefit for those of us in the rust-belt. Look at the upper mount in post #45. Even if the mount contracted road-salt-cancer, you can still access the mounting bolt & change your shocks easily.

Compare that to how much trouble it is when the upper mount bolts snap on the OEM set-up.

Thanks again guys!
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Quote:
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Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/
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Unread 12-21-2009, 09:09 AM   #59
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Great right up. This has made outboarding a little easyer to understand for me. I am a little slow though.
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Unread 12-21-2009, 10:00 AM   #60
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Do you have any pics of the lower mounts? I am collecting parts and about ready to dive into this project, but I am still a little uncertain as to how to approach the lower mounts/shock stud. Maybe put together a parts list for people?
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