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Unread 12-19-2009, 02:56 PM   #16
Humboldt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexia View Post
Cutting the frame to weld in the new towers, how does that affect the structural integrity? I doubt it would cause issues for the main suspension since it is behind that area. Would it cause issues for towing? What about getting hit from the rear?
I'm sure Blaine will come along and answer this better.

I dont tow but seeing that you're basically boxing the frame with the shock tower I'm pretty sure you'd be ok with the low tow limit of a wrangler.

As far as getting hit from the rear goes, if you look at the front of your frame, there are a series of holes that form a crumple zone. I figure if I get hit hard enough to crumple my frame and push my axle forward, I'm done for anyway. For what it's worth, most the guys I know that have done this play in some pretty crazy terrain without it failing.

This project is hardly revolutionary. Guys have been doing it for years with no bad side effects. I would add that this falls into the catagory of "If it concerns you, don't do it."

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Unread 12-19-2009, 06:07 PM   #17
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I did a quick chop on the long end to give myself more room to rotate the buckets back. On my 2003 I ran into the frame side track bar bracket on the pass side and the cross member on the drivers rear.



Bumpstops back in. Still need to do a bit of fine tuning to get them where I want, but needless to say, theres some improvement there. Tomorrow, I'll clean them up and weld them in. I'm almost back to square 1 and can do what I set out to in outboarding my shocks.



This could be done much faster. I'm working slow on purpose and having fun.
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Unread 12-19-2009, 06:10 PM   #18
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interesting to see. I will be relocating my upper spring mount soon.
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Unread 12-19-2009, 06:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Humboldt View Post
From the looks of it, I will be able to get the coil mount raised up 1 1/2" while its rotated back. Hope so, otherwise I'll be in the market for some shorter springs. This is a prime example of the Jeep Cascade Effect. Set out to change 2 things, and you end up changing 100 little things. Good thing I like my garage
I'm really interested in seeing what the net difference in spring height under load will be after this. Again, great write-up so far
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Quote:
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Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/
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Unread 12-19-2009, 06:35 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
I'm really interested in seeing what the net difference in spring height under load will be after this.
Yeah me too. It crossed my mind before I started. Rough country wont sell just the rear 2.5" coils, actually told me I had to buy the whole lift
Ill go AEV 3" progressives if I need. I couldnt imagine it being more than 1 1/2" taller than what it was and Im not against an extra 1/2" in the rear if it is and I go the AEV route. Well see tomorrow
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Unread 12-19-2009, 06:47 PM   #21
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Looks good, I've thought about the outboarding as well. Can't wait for more updates!
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Unread 12-19-2009, 07:11 PM   #22
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nice work!
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Unread 12-19-2009, 08:17 PM   #23
rmb2485
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AEV sells a bolt-on kit to do what you're doing and they say it raises the ride height about 1-5/8". Looking at the pictures in their installation guide, it looks like you could save at least an inch by doing it your way, which would put you somewhere in the 1/2" higher than it was before you messed with it neighborhood.

AEV TJ Rear Spring Relocator Kit
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Unread 12-19-2009, 08:26 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexia View Post
Cutting the frame to weld in the new towers, how does that affect the structural integrity? I doubt it would cause issues for the main suspension since it is behind that area. Would it cause issues for towing? What about getting hit from the rear?
I tow and yank on burried superdutys with mine, I guess some could argue about it all day but it's as strong as it was, a dead stop with 4700#s from 30 mph at the end of the strap would bust something if it were gonna break.
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Unread 12-19-2009, 08:32 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJdualsport View Post
did you have to get longer shocks to do the outboarding
I started with 13" and went to 14" travel rear shocks, i've also got a hair over 6" of uptravel tho, which uses up some of the droop.

I think it's a benificial mod even if you have 10" travel shocks, especially with a small lift.
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HighLine Hood Jeepers
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DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
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Unread 12-19-2009, 08:45 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by rondak46 View Post
That said, I have not heard of anyone having problems on the forums. I wonder how Stu's set-up is holding up...
As to how mine is holding up.....it holds up just fine. I don't tow with mine any more since someone decided they needed my off-road trailer more than I did. I check it every now and again when I have my head under there.....looking for cracks and such. None found. I did notice the other day that my shock bushings are starting to get a little long in the tooth.....time for new ones. So I can say that I've bounced it around enough to wear out the shock bushings.
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Unread 12-19-2009, 08:59 PM   #27
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Just wanted to show you guys a different way you could relocate your spring buckets also to give them more beef.



I had to relocate mine due to moving the axle back during my long arm build but plan to outboard my shocks. I cut the formed "C" off and welded on a piece of angle iron. Just an idea. (Sorry for the hijack)
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Unread 12-20-2009, 10:42 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Humboldt View Post
Yeah me too. It crossed my mind before I started. Rough country wont sell just the rear 2.5" coils, actually told me I had to buy the whole lift
Ill go AEV 3" progressives if I need. I couldnt imagine it being more than 1 1/2" taller than what it was and Im not against an extra 1/2" in the rear if it is and I go the AEV route. Well see tomorrow
I don't think RC is very good about substitutions in there lift kits either like RE or AEV, I had asked RC before about a 4" YJ lift and I wanted 2.5" springs instead of the 4 and they wouldn't do it.

You can buy AEV's springs in pairs, I purchase all of my AEV products threw Northridge4x4 Northridge4x4 Jeep Parts Online Store

RC will sell you their set of 4 - 2.5" springs for $199 and that's probably our price after shipping.

You could run there rear springs and sell the fronts to someone who wants to run a 2" spacers in back to level it out.
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Unread 12-20-2009, 12:44 PM   #29
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Lots of honey-dos today, but I did get a little accomplished.

Welded in both sides. I'm a pretty novice welder, but they'll stick

I set them at 0* and as far back as I could without getting into the track bar bracket.



This is as full bump with the drivers side drooped out (Max articulation). It's about as good as its going to get without removing the rear track bar. The contact is good now at least.



Before for comparison
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Unread 12-20-2009, 01:14 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Humboldt View Post
I made this thread because these are pretty common mods people do and they kinda go hand in hand. Figured Id throw some pictures and notes since I didnt find a whole lot searching.
Thank you sir. This is a very useful thread for those of us that will be doing these mods in the future.
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