post #151 of Old 02-14-2010, 09:16 AM
jgorm
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Nice job! I've been itching to cut up my jeep. Just gotta finish up my other "open" projects.

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post #152 of Old 02-14-2010, 09:24 AM
mrblaine
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Originally Posted by jgorm View Post
Nice job! I've been itching to cut up my jeep. Just gotta finish up my other "open" projects.
Careful there, you wouldn't want anyone knowing you actually used an idea from someone as arrogant as I am.

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post #153 of Old 02-14-2010, 09:31 AM
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Careful there, you wouldn't want anyone knowing you actually used an idea from someone as arrogant as I am.
haha, you know i love you blaine! But don't get your hopes up because my idea has very little in common. Basically we will both cut into the frame, but other than that there is nothing similar. But hey, what else would i expect from a guy like you.
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post #154 of Old 02-14-2010, 10:53 AM
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But hey, what else would i expect from a guy like you.
And I expect nothing less from you.

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post #155 of Old 02-14-2010, 11:34 AM
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Very nice! This is a future mod for me for sure. I'm surprised I haven't tore my shock mounts off yet. Thanks for fantastic thread.

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post #156 of Old 02-14-2010, 05:02 PM
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mudb8 also did a nice write up on this:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/lo...antage-852221/
I much prefer the shocks to be fully outboard but some just don't like the idea of cutting into the frame.
I've also got another bracket now for the upper mounts which elimiates the Bar Pin, without losing uptravel from a "BPE" however, you need a body lift to use them. in the end, the lower mounts are protected by and reinforce the LCA mount and the upper shock mount is raised about 1.25" and slightly inboard to keep the larger diameter shocks from rubbing the frame at full compression.. Which is something I ran into from outboarding lower mounts to far.

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post #157 of Old 02-17-2010, 07:38 AM
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What measurments were used to tilt the top of the tower outward and the bottom inward? EX: 1"on top, 1/2" on the bottom.

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post #158 of Old 02-17-2010, 08:11 AM
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What measurments were used to tilt the top of the tower outward and the bottom inward? EX: 1"on top, 1/2" on the bottom.
I just did a set of 12" Fox shocks and it was around 1/2" on the bottom and 3/4" for the top.

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post #159 of Old 02-17-2010, 09:03 AM
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Is there a standard for this or preferance?

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post #160 of Old 02-17-2010, 09:23 AM
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Is there a standard for this or preferance?
Go back and read what Joe had to say again. You have to cycle the axle many times to get your clearances. When one side is stuffed and the other drooped, the shocks are at their closest and furthest points from hitting the lower part of the shock mount.

You want the top of the mount tilted outwards enough to stop contact with the frame but inwards enough that the tire doesn't hit the shock. YOU have to figure that out by how the axle moves.

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post #161 of Old 02-17-2010, 09:29 AM
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OK thanks. I think I get what your saying.

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post #162 of Old 02-17-2010, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Go back and read what Joe had to say again. You have to cycle the axle many times to get your clearances. When one side is stuffed and the other drooped, the shocks are at their closest and furthest points from hitting the lower part of the shock mount.

You want the top of the mount tilted outwards enough to stop contact with the frame but inwards enough that the tire doesn't hit the shock. YOU have to figure that out by how the axle moves.
I thought I had a pretty good idea of how a rear axle moved from messing with it over the years, but until you pull the springs, sway bar, shocks and tires and really start jacking stuff around you wont truely understand. (At least for me. My crayons on construction paper only got me so far )

After you do that for a bit, the measurements and spacing are self explanatory.
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post #163 of Old 02-24-2010, 10:56 AM
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Thanks so much for this thread!

I notice on the first page that you went with the Currie bump stops. I have whatever TeraFlex bump stop extensions came with my 3" complete lift of theirs. It doesn't look like those bump stops are "extended" in that way. Is that because with the new outboarded setup you no longer need extensions? If so, is that because the shocks won't be your limiting factor or because you're running the MetalCloak rear corners/flares and thus don't have to worry about rubbing flares?
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post #164 of Old 03-02-2010, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Firekite View Post
Thanks so much for this thread!

I notice on the first page that you went with the Currie bump stops. I have whatever TeraFlex bump stop extensions came with my 3" complete lift of theirs. It doesn't look like those bump stops are "extended" in that way. Is that because with the new outboarded setup you no longer need extensions? If so, is that because the shocks won't be your limiting factor or because you're running the MetalCloak rear corners/flares and thus don't have to worry about rubbing flares?
Sorry for the delay, I was at sea for a couple weeks.

The Currie bump stops are the right size for 4" lift springs. It just splits the extension between the top and bottom as well as capture the coil spring.

The metal cloak fenders do not offer much more real clearance over stock, the flair is just not in the way.

The bump stops limit my up travel, not the shocks. You still need proper sized bumpstops with outboarded shocks.
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post #165 of Old 03-02-2010, 05:42 PM
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When you say it captures the coil springs, are you saying it retains the springs on their buckets top and bottom so they don't unseat and rattle around loosely under extreme flex?

Having not seen it in action, I'm not sure what else that could mean. Thanks for the clarification
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