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Unread 12-14-2015, 10:28 AM   #1
AFARR
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OPDA fixed by dealer...should I still check it?...update..bought new Crown, how to??

The 2005 (mostly ready to get on the road....now it's cosmetic stuff..pulling & cleaning carpets, seats, etc)...Nov 15 '04 build date, so it falls right in the middle of the OPDA issues.

I did a VIN check and it comes up:

THE CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR/OIL PUMP DRIVE ASSEMBLY DATE CODE LABEL MUST BE INSPECTED. UNITS WITHIN A SPECIFIC DATE CODE RANGE MUST HAVE THE DRIVE GEAR REPLACED.

(with a status of REPAIRED).

On the Jeep recall check website.

That was done March 21, 2005.


Should it be checked again (it's got around 60k miles right now) before I start driving it...i.e...was the dealer fix a permanent one?

Thanks!

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Unread 12-14-2015, 10:31 AM   #2
JStMarie
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When you are all done reading this thread you will know everything you need to know.

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Unread 12-14-2015, 10:37 AM   #3
Tonellin
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Yes re-check. The new design OPDA was not introduced in 2005 when the dealer 'fixed' your jeep. Most likely they just swapped in another OEM unit
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Unread 12-14-2015, 10:52 AM   #4
joe_jeep
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Did jeep ever get an opdg with an upper bearing?
Did jeep ever get one that oiled the top?

I would think jeep ones are all the same, a poor design, but maybe im wrong?

The one I installed, has an aftermarket upper bearing assembly, not a bushing.
its been good for about 20k miles. Hopefully it lasts?
Mine was repaired b4 the new crown units came out.
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Unread 12-14-2015, 12:25 PM   #5
AFARR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JStMarie View Post
When you are all done reading this thread you will know everything you need to know.

Uh...Ok.

I actually skimmed the links in the post as to removal, noise, etc.

I'd probably tend towards replacing it rather than modifying it (although as simple as it looks to remove, probably worth doing just to check before ordering parts).

Without going through the 300+ pages, is there a recommended, high quality replacement..that can make 150k more miles (assuming there's wear on the gear or it is the old style just swapped in, and a good cam gear)?

Thanks!
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Unread 12-14-2015, 12:32 PM   #6
biffgnar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFARR View Post
Uh...Ok.

I actually skimmed the links in the post as to removal, noise, etc.

I'd probably tend towards replacing it rather than modifying it (although as simple as it looks to remove, probably worth doing just to check before ordering parts).

Without going through the 300+ pages, is there a recommended, high quality replacement..that can make 150k more miles (assuming there's wear on the gear or it is the old style just swapped in, and a good cam gear)?

Thanks!
Design-wise the Crown replacement is the best option out there, but it hasn't been around long enough to say what happens in "150k more miles".
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Unread 12-14-2015, 01:42 PM   #7
AFARR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Design-wise the Crown replacement is the best option out there, but it hasn't been around long enough to say what happens in "150k more miles".
Thanks. From what I could see, it looks like it's Crown or Dorman as the 'available' units.

I'll check when I get home on the ODPA and see what it's labeled (make sure it wasn't changed again).

Thanks again!!
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Unread 12-14-2015, 07:52 PM   #8
Rubi4MyMrs
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If you read that closely you will note 2 things. 1 it was a “campaign”, not a recall. 2 the OPDA was not replaced, the gear was. Listed as 3-21-2005, the same date my gear was replaced so not sure if that is a coincidence or not but that is also listed as the delivery (in service) date on my ’05. The gear did nothing to fix the design flaw but was just to replace a bad batch of gears according to what I have read. In April of 2011 I started getting the “laughing monkey” from a dry top bushing & shaft galling & binding. The replacement “campaign” gear had excessive wear, assumed to be from the excessive drag from the dry bushing/binding shaft except the wear pattern was very uneven, much more wear on several teeth & pretty much normal pattern on the rest. That was at about 24,000 miles.

So that “campaign” repair is not a fix for possible other OPDA problems. There is another guy here that has a 2005 within the dates of this & also apparently had the gear replaced & has now been fighting (a losing battle) with Chrysler since he had to replace his cam because of excessive cam gear wear after getting the laughing monkey & replacing the OPDA & couldn’t get is to stop throwing codes & going into limp mode.

Some say this has been blown way out of proportion & is not a big problem which may be true but if it hits you, you may not agree. Easy to check or take you chances but thinking the “campaign” puts you in the clear may be a mistake.
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Unread 12-15-2015, 06:44 AM   #9
AFARR
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Thanks....Ordered the Crown unit to replace, and:

I'll check the cam wear when I pull the old unit.

I do have a brief question on the replacement...

I see how to mark the old unit (sharpie vs. using the alignment holes).

For a new unit (complete) with the plastic alignment tab in place...do you still have to move to TDC (before removing the old unit)? Easier to turn the engine until the alignment holes are matching? I don't have ready access to an engine analyzer, so I'm going to need to try to keep the timing on.

(For the $95ish for the unit, and because my kids will be driving it, adds some peace of mind over worrying that they'll pay attention for a noise...they do to some extent...as opposed the wife...'the car's making a noise, you need to look at it'...what kind of a noise?...'a loud one'...when does it happen...'when I'm in it.)

Thanks!

(looking like I might make a day of it and replace the Valve Cover gasket also..).

Thanks!
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Unread 12-15-2015, 11:15 AM   #10
Rubi4MyMrs
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Turn the engine until the holes are almost lined up the finish by turning it until the timing marks line up on the front pulley. Removing the belt makes it easier to see the marks. Then the engine will be exactly on TDC when you drop the new one in with the alignment pin in place. Be sure to tighten the hold down bolt before removing the pin. If you pull the pin first you may move the unit when tightening it. Even a small amount can give you a code or even keep it from starting.

It is possible that when exactly on TDC the holes will be slightly misaligned because of wear on the gears & some stretching of the timing chain. Getting it reset with pin in & on TDC should get you better sync between the cam & crank sensors & less chance of getting a P0016 code.

Here are some links that should help:

Setting the OPDA with photos

Photo of the belt off & timing marks with directions for proper alignment

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/in.../#post13962022

Also here w/3 photos -- belt off, & positions of housing in & coming out

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/op.../#post13299830

Resetting OPDA after P0016

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/20...l#post14082711
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Unread 12-15-2015, 01:54 PM   #11
AFARR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Turn the engine until the holes are almost lined up the finish by turning it until the timing marks line up on the front pulley. Removing the belt makes it easier to see the marks. Then the engine will be exactly on TDC when you drop the new one in with the alignment pin in place. Be sure to tighten the hold down bolt before removing the pin. If you pull the pin first you may move the unit when tightening it. Even a small amount can give you a code or even keep it from starting.

It is possible that when exactly on TDC the holes will be slightly misaligned because of wear on the gears & some stretching of the timing chain. Getting it reset with pin in & on TDC should get you better sync between the cam & crank sensors & less chance of getting a P0016 code.

Here are some links that should help:

Setting the OPDA with photos

Photo of the belt off & timing marks with directions for proper alignment

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/in.../#post13962022

Also here w/3 photos -- belt off, & positions of housing in & coming out

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/op.../#post13299830

Resetting OPDA after P0016

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/20...l#post14082711
Thanks...didn't pick up on the leave the plastic pin in until it's bolted down...might have created some problems...
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