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Unread 11-17-2010, 09:48 AM   #31
cgork
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 40
Is there anyone pulling this piece WITHOUT showing any wear? I am getting a tapping sound from the top of the cover. Any relation??

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Unread 11-17-2010, 01:01 PM   #32
JeepScrap
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Does anyone know if this is happening to ALL 05/06 Wranglers? I gotta say, I've owned 2 CJ's that were great, just not as daily commuters and have since been driving Japanese sedans for the last few years. I recently gave up on boring sedan life and figured I'd go back over to a newer Wrangler. Searched and searched for an 06 Unlimited Rubicon and now I'm wondering if this was a bad move. Why can't America make anything decent? Has this forced any of you to sell off your Jeeps? I'm I driving a ticking time bomb that is not able to be permanently fixed. Or am I just being a paranoid drama queen?
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Unread 11-17-2010, 01:30 PM   #33
bacon225
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2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 118
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2005 TJ, 21,900 miles,
2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
Excessive and abnormal wear of the OPDA gear and camshaft gear. No pictures but it looks like all the other bad ones.
3. Actions taken to fix the problem
Replacing the OPDA with a new one for now. Until I can find out all I need to about replacing the cam. Then I will do it and another new OPDA and run Mobil 1 turbo diesel
4. Approximate cost of repair
So far $172 for the new OPDA but the cost will be much higher when I redo it and the cam.
5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
NO on my one on this one I have a salvage title.
6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
NA
7. Has the problem returned?
That is the big ?
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Unread 11-17-2010, 01:32 PM   #34
bacon225
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If anyone has a list of parts needed to replace the cam and write up on it please hook me up I am on my one on this one.
Thanks
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Unread 11-17-2010, 01:56 PM   #35
willydigger
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Baltimore, MD
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Quote:
Does anyone know if this is happening to ALL 05/06 Wranglers? I gotta say, I've owned 2 CJ's that were great, just not as daily commuters and have since been driving Japanese sedans for the last few years. I recently gave up on boring sedan life and figured I'd go back over to a newer Wrangler. Searched and searched for an 06 Unlimited Rubicon and now I'm wondering if this was a bad move. Why can't America make anything decent? Has this forced any of you to sell off your Jeeps? I'm I driving a ticking time bomb that is not able to be permanently fixed. Or am I just being a paranoid drama queen?
I don't know if ALL 05-06 have this problem, but a bunch do. It is not the end of the world and I don't know at this point in the discovery/root cause analysis stage, that you need to toss out your Jeep.

At first I was panicked like you describe. I have seen cases in the other thread of major failure. I think these are the extreme cases and not the norm. In my experience, the norm is a worn gear which creates a symptom that is only fixed with a like gear. It like replacing a bad heart with a bad heart.

Since we are still early in the root cause stage, the other fixes and work-arounds haven't had enough time to prove whether it will work or not. Some listed things like ZDDP, grease bushings, alternate oil pumps, replacement camshafts and OPDA's, etc., may work, but it's only been a few months.

Here is my take as of now.
1. ZDDP is a good thing. Mobil 1 High Mileage or other suitable increased ZDDP additives are good for the I6. Now that I understand this I will use it.

2. Zerks in the upper bushing and oil grooves in the shaft look like viable alternatives to prevent binding in the shaft which I think contributes to the premature failure. Without have an 04 model to dissect I can't say for sure. I plan to do the oil groove and the zerk just a preventative measures.

3. The Hesco oil pump may deliver more oil to the cam gear assembly, but I think item 2. above eliminated the need IMO.

4. I don't plan to replace the camshaft. It is a thicker gear and IMO will handle the wear for the life of the engine. I think messing around in the engine is asking for trouble.

In closing my Jeep ran for 66K, technically more due to a tire/speedo gear conflict. I never had a gear failure, instead it was my OPDA shaft binding. If I have to purchase a new OPDA every 66K miles, I can do that.

Check it every once in a while. Twice a year maybe, more if you're a worrywart like I can be. It's not hard to pull it and take a peak. Look for likes like oil contact, wear on the OPDA, wear on the camshaft (understanding that there will be wear on these parts normally), spin the shaft to check for binding (any binding it should be smooth and consistent).
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Unread 11-17-2010, 02:02 PM   #36
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacon225 View Post
If anyone has a list of parts needed to replace the cam and write up on it please hook me up I am on my one on this one.
Thanks
From http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ch...5/index68.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by dtc503 View Post
Just to chime in on where to buy the OPDA and gasket.
I purchased OPDA part number: 53010624 $97.85
Gasket part number: J3181288 $1.87

from: Mopar Parts

Total including freight was $112.67

They are Jerry Ulm Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep
2968 N. Dale Mabry, Tampa, FL 33607
(813) 872-6645

Rick
Quote:
2. PN 53010624AC. It should be on the sticker on the OPDA.



3. Below is an image of the gasket package.


First off, here is an image of the camshaft gear. You can see how much more solid it is compared to the OPDA gear.



Here are removal instructions. Review them carefully so you have a real good understanding.

Quote:
I got a PM about removal. Thought I would post it here for everyone.

Quote:
First off have a look at this thread if you haven't already.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/wh...ml#post8096572

First I marked the engine next to the OPDA. A little mark with a sharpie is fine.

Next you mark the housing of the OPDA. This will make sure the housing goes back correctly. You can turn the housing and that will screw up the timing so it's important to mark it.

Finally mark the sensor wheel. This is connected to the gear that is wearing.

Here is the important part, the gear from the OPDA meshes with the camshaft gear inside the engine. As long as you do not run the engine (turn it over), the camshaft will not turn. The OPDA gear will be forced to go back exactly the way it came out. I repeat, under no circumstances do you ever run the engine with the OPDA out. When you put the OPDA back it it will be way off or right on the money. The gear mesh is not that fine. Think of a clock face, If your marks are at 2 the OPDA will reinstall at 12, 2, or 4. There is no 1:55 or 2:05. It will be right or wrong, there isn't a close.

This pic will help make it clear. (page 3 post 40)



Once the OPDA is out you can spin it to check for the shaft sticking. It should be smooth and not bind even a little. It shouldn't be loose, but smooth.

Check the gear for wear and check to see the oil contact. If you can get a look at the camshaft gear, try to take a pic. Odds are there will be a little shine on the camshaft gear edges. The area of concern is where the gear teeth meet. Chanced are everything is fine. If the OPDA is binding, order a new one.

The final step. You'll notice at the bottom of the OPDA is a slotted shaft. This will fit into the oil pump. If you happen to move the oil pump (twist it as you are removing the OPDA) the OPDA will not seat back properly. The marks will be off. If this happens (I've taken mine off 4 times, it happened once), take a flat head screw driver and turn the oil pump so the slot will fit so the marks match. If you run into trouble do not say "eh close enough", the marks need to match. You'll know if the oil pump needs to be turned if the marks don't line up with the OPDA fully inserted.

On a 1-10 (10 hard) this is a 3, only because the bolt is hard to get to.

If you tear the gasket, you can get another at the dealer or just add a little RTV. I didn't tear mine after removing it twice. You can run it without the gasket if you need to replace it.
Edit:
Here is a good pic of the camshaft gear and the oil pump slot. (Page 8 post 115)


Here is a new OPDA with gear and slotted shaft end.

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Unread 11-17-2010, 05:38 PM   #37
JeepScrap
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Has anyone been able to figure out what the difference is, if any, between Rev E and Rev B in the serial number of the OPDA?
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Unread 01-01-2011, 07:50 AM   #38
Night Wolf
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Macon, Georgia
Posts: 945
1. 2005 TJ Sport built 6/05
2. Loud squeeling noise at various RPM
3. Replaced OPDA
4. $100 diag fee from dealer, $130 parts and replaced myself
5. No
6. N/A
7. No

I had mine fail before the main threads were made. At first I could not find where the sound was coming from and since the Jeep had a 100k lame warantee that all used vehicles got at the (Jeep) dealer I bought it from, I took it in as maybe it was something covered. It wasn't and then I had to pay the $100 diagnostic fee.

The gear on the bottom of my OPDA shaft showed wear, but I threw that unit out long ago.
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Unread 01-10-2011, 06:56 PM   #39
Heath
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2014 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Shreveport
Posts: 2,640
1. 2005 Wrangler Rubicon, 63675 not sure and Jeep is not here to look.
2. Wear on the opdm and the camshaft
3. Dealer is looking in to it
4. ?
5. ?
6. ?
7. ?
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Unread 01-10-2011, 11:05 PM   #40
05LongJeep
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Spokane,Wa.
Posts: 47
In this thread I’d like to limit it to:
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep: 2005 Unlimited 49K.mi. 11/04
2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available. I pulled OPDA & found heavily worn gear.
3. Actions taken to fix the problem. Called dealer explained what I found, Sched appt. Took in LJ. Did what I was told regarding issue by service writer(LIE). Then he charged me $65 & told me nothing was wrong.
4. Approximate cost of repair. $65 charge for diagnostic. But no fix.
5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs? Not Yet. But I'm not done with this. Sent email to JEEP.
6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
7. Has the problem returned?
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Loved & Lost due to Faulty OPDA--2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited LJ. Rough Country 2.5" Lift w/Stearing Stab. R/C sway bar discos. 31x10.50, Hella Windshield Lights & A Never Ending List of Dreams
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Unread 01-14-2011, 02:33 PM   #41
RockyMnt1
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Location: Woodland Park, Co
Posts: 285
I couldn't stand it any longer. I had to pull the CPS to see what was happening:
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2006, LJ, 49726 miles. Engine buld date: 01/9/06, Jeep build date: 02/06
2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
No symptoms at all. No CEL. No codes. No noise. No binding of the CPS shaft when removed. I just got very nervous not knowing the status. There was wear on the gear. Wear was pretty even around the whole gear. Looked like previous pics. The portion of the OPDA that fit into the oil pump did show signs of wear along the edges.
3. Actions taken to fix the problem
FOG Mod
4. Approximate cost of repair
CPS $180.00, Gasket $7.00 (yeah, I know), $51.00 grease, $34.00 dedicated grese gun, $13.00 taps, grease zerk fittings, $0.90 grub screw, $6.47 red locktite = $293.37 + my gas/time + worrying about this issue = $500.00
5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
No. Out of warranty.
6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
N/A
7. Has the problem returned? Just installed fix. Not enought time/miles to determine.
dsc01343.jpg   dsc01344.jpg   dsc01345.jpg   dsc01346.jpg   dsc01347.jpg  

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Unread 01-17-2011, 10:57 AM   #42
Skydiver1
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2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kenosha, Wisconsin
Posts: 4
2006 Rubicon LJ, only 32,000 miles!!!!!!

Worn distributor gear and camshaft exactly like others pictures.

I have not started to fix it yet. After checking out this site and other sources, it seems the cam is garbage and a new factory cam is just more factory garbage. Maybe a stroked out 4.6 Golen Engine? Time to do some research and brush the snow off the old Camanche! This SUCKS!
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Unread 01-18-2011, 09:22 PM   #43
Elwood
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2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cornjerker Country, IL.
Posts: 1,471
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2006 Wrangler Unlimited, 44,000 mi. built 2/06

2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
Shaft would squeal when engine cold AND cold temps. outside.

3. Actions taken to fix the problem
I did the "Fog Mod". Pulled unit, and it was firm when turning with firmer spots during the revolution. After installing the zerk and lubricating, it spins SO much easier now. No play, but VERY smooth spinning. My gears had what I would call "normal wear" for the miles on the engine. The factory lubricant was like ear wax when I blew it out. A joke essentially.

4. Approximate cost of repair Just my time and a few parts I already had at the shop. I did the mod. to my existing part. I have one on order and from what I am told, it will be for quite some time.

5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs? They are clueless.

6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay N/A

7. Has the problem returned? Just did this yesterday. Time will tell.
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Unread 01-24-2011, 03:43 PM   #44
grnberet2b
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 28
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
  • 2005 TJ 36,900 miles, BD 9/04

2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
  • Beginning around 30,000 miles, the engine would enter limp mode at 4500RPM with code P0344 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR INTERMITTENT

3. Actions taken to fix the problem
  • Took too dealership, they diagnosed it as damage to the OPDA and camshaft gears. Chrysler contacted, dealership informed them that there was no definitive proof that the damage was caused by issues indicated by TSB E05.

4. Approximate cost of repair
  • $3200

5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
  • No

6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay

7. Has the problem returned?
  • Problem returned at 36,900 miles, approx. 7,000 miles after OPDA replacement
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Unread 01-25-2011, 07:00 PM   #45
odyssey017
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2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 127
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon , 29,782, 12/05
2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
No Problems just pulled to check for wear after freaking out about this forum, I did find wear on the opda but it wasnt as bad as most of the pictures and did see a little wear on the cam shaft. Couldn't get a decent picture
3. Actions taken to fix the problem
None of yet going to talk to the dealer and order a new part and replace it till chrysler figures out a better solution lol
4. Approximate cost of repair
N/A
5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
N/A
6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
N/A
7. Has the problem returned?
N/A
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