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OPDA/Camshaft Synchronizer shaft problem (TSB E05R) consolidated REGISTRY please sign

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#1 ·
OPDA/Camshaft Synchronizer shaft problem (TSB E05R) consolidated REGISTRY

In an effort to assist me and others in battling Chrysler with the 4.0 '04-'06 Oil Pump Drive Assembly (OPDA)/Camshaft Synchronizer shaft problem (TSB E05R), I propose that we start a "just the facts" registry. The thread to discuss the problems is http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/chrysler-paying-install-new-cam-2006-owners-should-read-963235/

In this thread I'd like to limit it to:
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
3. Actions taken to fix the problem
4. Approximate cost of repair
5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
7. Has the problem returned?

I'll kick things off by claiming the #1 spot for defective Jeeps:
1. 2006 LJ, 61,000 miles, build date is late in the '06 run.
2. OPDA gear abnormally worn at 61k:


OPDA cam gear also abnormally worn:


cam shot:


and a catastrophic lifter failure:


3. To be determined - The LJ is in pieces at an independent shop
4. To be determined - easily in excess of $1,000 plus car rental
5. To be determined
6. N/A
7. N/A
 
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4
#2 ·
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
  • 2006 TJ, 20,600 miles, build date 12/05, engine date stamp 512MX07
2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
  • Excessive and abnormal wear of the OPDA gear and camshaft gear, eminent failure is certain.
3. Actions taken to fix the problem
  • TBD, problem just discovered today
4. Approximate cost of repair
  • TBD, will update as necessary
5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
  • TBD, will update as necessary
6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
  • TBD, will update as necessary
7. Has the problem returned?
  • TBD, will update as necessary







 
#3 ·
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2006 lj rubicon. built november 2005. 42k miles

2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
worn distributor gear (uneven with striations). scored shaft. slight wear on oil pump drive tang edges.

3. Actions taken to fix the problem
installed crown automotive distributor gear @42k miles

4. Approximate cost of repair
$35 + sweat & frustration (the new gear fit tight and drilling out for the pin was a bear with a hand drill)

5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
didn't try since it didn't seem worth the extra aggravation

6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
n/a

7. Has the problem returned?
n/a
 
#14 ·
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2005 TJ rubicon. 86k miles

2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
worn distributor gear (uneven with striations). scored shaft. slight wear on oil pump drive tang edges.

3. Actions taken to fix the problem
installed 4wd automotive distributor gear @86k miles

4. Approximate cost of repair
$35 + sweat & frustration (the new gear fit tight and drilling out for the pin was a bear with a hand drill)

5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
told me to go **** myself.

6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
n/a

7. Has the problem returned?
n/a
fixed for my scenario.
 
#4 ·
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2006 TJ X. built December 2005. 22k miles

2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
worn distributor gear (uneven with striations). scored shaft. slight wear on oil pump drive tang edges.

3. Actions taken to fix the problem
installed crown automotive distributor gear, polished the shaft, and installed a 45 degree zerk fitting at the factory grease point @22k miles

4. Approximate cost of repair
$75 (32 for gear kit from Chrysler, 40 for machine shop, + sweat & frustration of running around for a week's vacation taking care of this.

5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
Nope..out of warranty and they stopped returning my calls with no follow-up.

6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
n/a

7. Has the problem returned?
Not yet. Seemed to be a decent fix, but I traded in the Jeep yesterday for a Nissan Titan 4x4. This was my 5th Jeep, but I will probably not be purchasing any more.
 
#5 ·
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2005 Unlimited, 54k miles, Assembled April 2005. Motor built March 2005, OPDA built March 2005.

2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
Visual indicators of accelerated gear wear. No drivability symptoms or other damage.





3. Actions taken to fix the problem
TBD

4. Approximate cost of repair
TBD

5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
TBD

6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
TBD

7. Has the problem returned?
TBD
 
#6 ·
'05 at 68k. Removed to inspect, promptly messed up timing. Took it back for alignment. Dealer ordering gear(striations), claiming cam gear to be good. On top of the 35, I think I'm riding a time bomb that will need frequent inspection
 
#7 ·
06 LJ, 21,000 miles. had the laughing monkey noise. took it to dealer under warranty they diagnosed as a belt noise and replaced belt. I ordered OPDA on my own and replaced it. upper bushing was shot as well as striations in gear. Chrysler reimbursed me for the part upon calling and sending in receipts. leery about how long new part will last.
 
#12 ·
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep;
2004 Rubi BD: 04/04
First engine @ 37K (lasted 37K)
2nd @ 68K (lasted 31K miles)
3rd currently has approx. 37K
Current mileage on whole vehicle, 105K

2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
I have not been able to verify this via hands on but techs have told us that it is cam failure. I have been told that each time the gear went bad that also a cam lobe was wiped out & the lifter worn off.
I don't see how one has anything to do with the other, unless the pump is having an issue causing it to lose oil pressure?

3. Actions taken to fix the problem:
R&R complete long block, replace cats.

4. Approximate cost of repair
Warrantied for $100.00 each time & many phone calls to DC.

5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
Parts but not fuel for towing.

6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay;

7. Has the problem returned?
Yes 3 times, its now out of warranty & is starting to come apart again.

I guess this time, I'll figure out what the cause is.
 
#13 ·
I hope that this helps someone.

I orderd my Oil pump/drive assembly (P/N 53010624-AC) on 8/5/10, just to have a spare around. It arrived today, so it seems that the backorders are being worked. Cost was $198.67, but, hey, that included a $5.99 gasket!!

No help for me (out of warranty). I asked the parts guy to let his management know that this issue is costing Jeep customers.
 
#15 ·
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2006 TJ rubicon. 39k miles

2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
worn distributor gear (uneven with striations).

3. Actions taken to fix the problem
Just noticed packed in grease for now, awaiting ideas.

4. Approximate cost of repair
dna

5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
dna

6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
dna

7. Has the problem returned?
n/a

sorry cheap cell phone camera... any body has ideas this my DD Help....

BTW it's not worn due to lack of lubrication and it was soaking in oil and it has been parked overnight before removal..
 
#16 · (Edited)
After Some Hassle Dealer Covered Replacement

1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2005, Wrangler X TJ, 64,400 miles, 2/05

2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
The laughing monkey noise tipped me off. I pulled the OPDA after two weeks of troubleshooting.











3. Actions taken to fix the problem.
I took it to the dealership. I took it the evening before so they had it cold the following morning. I explained to the dealer the noise and the problem. I let them know about the TSB and the duration of the noise.

Later that morning the dealer called and said the part was not covered under the 7yr/70,000 mile drive train warranty. I asked how a part that was directly related to the drive train was not covered considering the TSB. He said he would double check. He mentioned that since it wasn't a "recall" and was only a "TSB" it was not covered under warranty. A few minutes later he admitted he was mistaken and said it was covered under the warranty. He mentioned the $100 deductible would still have to be covered. I believe if I hadn't of pressed the subject the dealership would not have covered it.

4. Approximate cost of repair?
They originally tried to charge me the price of the OPDA and installation (~$490). After admitting to warranty coverage I had to pay a $100 deductible for the replacement ODPA. I asked to see the part they removed to confirm it was the worn part. It was. The part also has a 12mo/12,000 mile warranty.

5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
The dealer said there was no damage to the camshaft gear. There was no other indication of failure other than the noise (no drop in oil pressure, no codes, no engine trouble, etc.). The service rep did mention that the old part would likely be rebuilt. I expect my replacement to be the same PN or a rebuilt part. I will have to keep an eye out. The only repair cost was a "new" OPDA and installation.

6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay?
As mentioned above, I had to press the subject. If I had of accepted the dealer's initial response I would not have been covered. Only after asking for an explanation and asking to check why the part was not covered, did they admit to coverage. I dealt directly with the dealer.

7. Has the problem returned?
When I left the dealership the noise was gone. Since that was my only symptom, I will have to wait a little while to inspect. I believe it will return.
UPDATE YES.

I removed the OPDA today. It had 20 miles on it since the dealer installation.







Here are some shots of the camshaft gear the dealer claims was okay.





*Also FYI, the dealer had the OPDA in stock (9/21/10, Baltimore MD). I dropped the Jeep off the previous evening and picked it up the next afternoon.
 
#17 ·
OPDA/Camshaft Synchronizer shaft problem (TSB E05R) consolidated REGISTRY

In an effort to assist me and others in battling Chrysler with the 4.0 '04-'06 Oil Pump Drive Assembly (OPDA)/Camshaft Synchronizer shaft problem (TSB E05R), I propose that we start a "just the facts" registry. The thread to discuss the problems is http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/chrysler-paying-install-new-cam-2006-owners-should-read-963235/

In this thread I'd like to limit it to:
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
3. Actions taken to fix the problem
4. Approximate cost of repair
5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
7. Has the problem returned?
This will be my 3rd OPDG swap... First was done at less than 1,000 miles on the clock. Bought the rig brand new off the lot with 4 miles on it or there abouts. Was the first rig to see this issue at this dealer, techs sent to school to learn how to fix problem, ended up at dealer for 3 weeks for tech to go to school, then replaced cam, crank, lifters, rods, OPDG, Sensor, and miscellaneous parts... Second replaced an hour or so ago by me, sitting in dealer lot, then had them re-sync. ~70,500 miles on the second one-new one currently in as of an hour or so ago-again, the 3rd unit now...

1. 2005 Unlimited Rubicon, ~71,400 miles, bought 03/05, build date-have to look...
2. Rough idle, misfire on #2 cylinder, multiple cylinder misfire, lugging, poor fuel economy, hot engine temps, bad cat, whining noise...
3. Original/factory failure-total rebuild, new cam, crank, lifters, rods, OPDG, sensor, miscellaneous parts, etc. Less than 1000 miles on clock. Current failure-pics look identical to those above in the thread-wear on drive gear and slight wear on cam. Running condition-been fighting a rough idle for months now, in to dealer twice for exam and second time specifically requested OPDG to be checked-said it was OK, but think it was just a computer check and no code thrown. Fighting misfire issue on #2 cylinder for long while now that can't eliminate. Bad cat, replaced that myself with Eastern Catalytic, replaced coil rail myself, new plugs, injector, injector swap, plug swap. Compression good on all cylinders at average 160 across the board, SLIGHT leakdown on #2 cylinder barely above spec at 15.2% or thereabouts. Ran chrysler glorified seafoam (mopar combustion chamber cleaner) through it with 3 hour heat soak then fluid change...
4. $371 for new cat, $165 for new gear/sensor/gasket, $30 plugs, $100 original dealer inspection, $350 second dealer inspection, lots of time and frustration.
5. No
6. N/A
7. Only 1 hour use so far, not sure yet... TBD. Worried about cam now as just had CPS/sensor/gear replaced and nothing else... Time will tell.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 
#19 ·
After a couple hundred miles now since yesterday, I threw the #2 misfire again. Seeing the above, Great. All I can say. My cam gear didn't look all that great and I was a bit concerned with it, but told to run it, it was fine. Very doubtful on that, but giving it a shot. Curious about worn lobe/flat cam or bad lifter/s. Must be some sort of creative swap for this, different material, something that would actually work.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 
#20 ·
Must be some sort of creative swap for this, different material, something that would actually work.
Welcome to the 05-06 Jeep CPS problem club :D. Jeep doesn't have any answer except to keep replacing CPS units till the Jeep is out of warranty and that's it.

There is another thread here on JF were a group of us have been discussing this issue at length. We have looked at hardness of the gear and cam, loading of the gear, gear angle, oil types and zinc/phos content.

So far we haven't really found an answer. I dunno if your familiar with Hesco machine shop but they have been building stroker Jeep engines for years.

The guys at Hesco are well aware of the issue with the 05-06 CPS and feel that its because of the reformulation of motor oils. Over the last couple of years most of the motor oils on the shelf have greatly reduced Zinc and Phosphorus content. The reason for this is ZDDP (zinc/phos) will destroy a catalytic converter if the engine is burning oil.

Since the EPA mandated really long warranties on cat converters the car makers put the pressure on oil companies to chop the ZDDP.

Hescos solution to the problem is two pronged. One run a high ZDDP oil or ZDDP additive. Also they make a high volume oil pump that have a metal tube with a nozzle that sprays high pressure oil directly into the CPS to cam gear connection.

FOG
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the info-yeah, as this is my 3rd one now, I'm well aware of the hazards this darn thing leads too... Had a full rebuild at less than 1000 miles brand new off the lot. 2nd one lasted about 70K so I guess in the grand scheme of things, 5 years of use should be considered decent compared to the rest-and especially the above at only 20 miles. Trouble is I'm out of warranty and while the dealer didn't think the wear on the cam was enough to worry about-I am worried... Waiting now to see how long this 3rd one lasts along with what kind of engine problems that may arise along the way. Can't seem to eliminate the #2 cylinder misfire and worry that the cam may be flat on that lobe or have lifter issues. Not sure what else it could be and hoping to avoid another costly rebuild-at least for as long as possible.

On the oiling issue-mine have all been oiled fine, I just think it's an improperly hardened gear, or realizing it needs to be somewhat softer than the cam, maybe it's just not hardened enough to their spec to make a good match for both life of the part, yet still be soft enough to go first and avoid the cam wear. Probably doesn't make much sense, but proper hardening ratio between cam and gear-I think it could be a bit harder and still be OK, last longer yet not be too hard to destroy the cam. edit-just re-read what you wrote and see you're talking about spraying more oil up too the gear/gear mesh. Hummm... I had oil all the way up the shaft on mine when I pulled it in their lot so I THINK it's getting oil. Maybe not enough though like you mention???

ZDDP levels-yeah, always something.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the info-yeah, as this is my 3rd one now, I'm well aware of the hazards this darn thing leads too... Had a full rebuild at less than 1000 miles brand new off the lot. 2nd one lasted about 70K so I guess in the grand scheme of things, 5 years of use should be considered decent compared to the rest-and especially the above at only 20 miles. Trouble is I'm out of warranty and while the dealer didn't think the wear on the cam was enough to worry about-I am worried... Waiting now to see how long this 3rd one lasts along with what kind of engine problems that may arise along the way. Can't seem to eliminate the #2 cylinder misfire and worry that the cam may be flat on that lobe or have lifter issues. Not sure what else it could be and hoping to avoid another costly rebuild-at least for as long as possible.

On the oiling issue-mine have all been oiled fine, I just think it's an improperly hardened gear, or realizing it needs to be somewhat softer than the cam, maybe it's just not hardened enough to their spec to make a good match for both life of the part, yet still be soft enough to go first and avoid the cam wear. Probably doesn't make much sense, but proper hardening ratio between cam and gear-I think it could be a bit harder and still be OK, last longer yet not be too hard to destroy the cam. edit-just re-read what you wrote and see you're talking about spraying more oil up too the gear/gear mesh. Hummm... I had oil all the way up the shaft on mine when I pulled it in their lot so I THINK it's getting oil. Maybe not enough though like you mention???

ZDDP levels-yeah, always something.

Best of Luck,

Mike
I'm not sure it's a hardness matching issue. It seems to me in the most simplistic form that if a soft babbet bearing in cam journal or connecting rod journal will survive as long as the oil film is present, then a cam gear will survive as long as it's lubricated properly.
 
#24 ·
I pulled mine after sitting a few days and it was still dripping oil.

It seems to me that there's a combination of issues.

-- zddp levels in the oil
-- malformed gear(out of round, not specifically hardness)
-- seizing upper bushing could be causing a side load on the gear.
-- too much play between the gear and opda housing
-- quality of the shaft itself(since we've already determined they're different than previous models)

Fog already listed the "fix" list, but it seems to be

-- higher zinc oil
-- zerk fitting for the upper bushing
-- and a properly replaced crown(or other) gear drilled out 90 degrees to remove excess play.(take the time to drill out 90, I wish I had)

Beyond that we'll have to get creative. IE swap heads with an older assembly, bronze gear, etc.
I'm going to hit up a bone yard on the next visit to ohio and start making my brain work.

Lots of good info being shared here guys. Thank you all. Let's keep it up and maybe we'll get this figured out.
 
#25 ·
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep

* 2005 LJ, 51,000 miles, engine build date 4/08/2004

2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.

* Excessive and abnormal wear of the OPDA gear and camshaft gear. No external symptoms at this point

3. Actions taken to fix the problem

* Took to Jeep dealer and had them inspect. They charged me $115 to reset it but said they couldn't replace it under warranty since it wasn't causing any issues. Claimed normal wear.

4. Approximate cost of repair

* TBD, will update as necessary

5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?

* TBD, will update as necessary

6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay

* TBD, will update as necessary

7. Has the problem returned?

* TBD, will update as necessary





 
#29 ·
I gonna post a few pics of my quick test results..I had more but they were blurry..and give my slightly educated opinion on things.

I say slightly because not only do I understand gears...I know how to cut and measure them from a piece of steel, It's part of my job. I do not have a PHD in metallurgy or lubricants but I can hold a good long conversation with someone who does. ;)

anyway..

I have a 2004 Rubicon (build of 4-04) with 43,000 well maintained miles. I have used Synthetic Oil since it had @ 2,000 miles on it. Only looked for a ACEA A-3 and known about ZDDP and oil things for the last couple years. I believe it (oil choice) to be irrelevant to the results of the gears I saw...but won't rule it out and wanted to make sure I mentioned it.

Here is what my OPDA looks like from above...





and here is lousy un-detailed photo of my gear on cam and OPDA..





Trust me when I say I was pleased with the results of what I saw on my Jeep. I plan to let my grand-kids drive it someday and don't feel I ever need to pull that out ever again.

Here are pics of a very good friends 2005 TJ X model (build date of 10-04) with 42,000 miles. He (we) went to dealership and bought used @ October 2008 and at that time had a very small warranty window left.





and cam gears and OPDA..





You can also trust me when I say that I plan to help repair this problem my friend has regardless of if the dealer (factory) wants to help me or not.

I'm betting that the gear on the ODPA is a more likely culprit than anything..and I personally think they were just plain out cut wrong.

A cam manufacturer has to hold tight tolerances and measure raw material often. A ODPA manufacturer can get a simple gear from anywhere and hang it on a shaft easy.The type of wear that I have seen pics of indicate very un-even wear throughout the length of the tooth along it's pitch.

2 Jeeps, built 6 months apart with very distinct differences..under the hood and deeper.
 
#32 ·
Does anyone know if this is happening to ALL 05/06 Wranglers? I gotta say, I've owned 2 CJ's that were great, just not as daily commuters and have since been driving Japanese sedans for the last few years. I recently gave up on boring sedan life and figured I'd go back over to a newer Wrangler. Searched and searched for an 06 Unlimited Rubicon and now I'm wondering if this was a bad move. Why can't America make anything decent? Has this forced any of you to sell off your Jeeps? I'm I driving a ticking time bomb that is not able to be permanently fixed. Or am I just being a paranoid drama queen?
 
#33 ·
1. Year, model, mileage, and build date of your Jeep
2005 TJ, 21,900 miles,
2. Brief description of the problem and any collateral damage. Please include pictures if available.
Excessive and abnormal wear of the OPDA gear and camshaft gear. No pictures but it looks like all the other bad ones.
3. Actions taken to fix the problem
Replacing the OPDA with a new one for now. Until I can find out all I need to about replacing the cam. Then I will do it and another new OPDA and run Mobil 1 turbo diesel
4. Approximate cost of repair
So far $172 for the new OPDA but the cost will be much higher when I redo it and the cam.
5. Did Chrysler pay for or reimburse any of the repairs?
NO on my one on this one I have a salvage title.
6. If Chrysler did pay, what steps were taken to make them pay
NA
7. Has the problem returned?
That is the big ?
 
#36 ·
From http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/chrysler-paying-install-new-cam-2005-2006-owners-should-read-963235/index68.html

Just to chime in on where to buy the OPDA and gasket.
I purchased OPDA part number: 53010624 $97.85
Gasket part number: J3181288 $1.87

from: Mopar Parts

Total including freight was $112.67

They are Jerry Ulm Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep
2968 N. Dale Mabry, Tampa, FL 33607
(813) 872-6645

Rick
2. PN 53010624AC. It should be on the sticker on the OPDA.



3. Below is an image of the gasket package.

First off, here is an image of the camshaft gear. You can see how much more solid it is compared to the OPDA gear.



Here are removal instructions. Review them carefully so you have a real good understanding.

I got a PM about removal. Thought I would post it here for everyone.

First off have a look at this thread if you haven't already.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/whats-why-so-angry-876488/index2.html#post8096572

First I marked the engine next to the OPDA. A little mark with a sharpie is fine.

Next you mark the housing of the OPDA. This will make sure the housing goes back correctly. You can turn the housing and that will screw up the timing so it's important to mark it.

Finally mark the sensor wheel. This is connected to the gear that is wearing.

Here is the important part, the gear from the OPDA meshes with the camshaft gear inside the engine. As long as you do not run the engine (turn it over), the camshaft will not turn. The OPDA gear will be forced to go back exactly the way it came out. I repeat, under no circumstances do you ever run the engine with the OPDA out. When you put the OPDA back it it will be way off or right on the money. The gear mesh is not that fine. Think of a clock face, If your marks are at 2 the OPDA will reinstall at 12, 2, or 4. There is no 1:55 or 2:05. It will be right or wrong, there isn't a close.

This pic will help make it clear. (page 3 post 40)



Once the OPDA is out you can spin it to check for the shaft sticking. It should be smooth and not bind even a little. It shouldn't be loose, but smooth.

Check the gear for wear and check to see the oil contact. If you can get a look at the camshaft gear, try to take a pic. Odds are there will be a little shine on the camshaft gear edges. The area of concern is where the gear teeth meet. Chanced are everything is fine. If the OPDA is binding, order a new one.

The final step. You'll notice at the bottom of the OPDA is a slotted shaft. This will fit into the oil pump. If you happen to move the oil pump (twist it as you are removing the OPDA) the OPDA will not seat back properly. The marks will be off. If this happens (I've taken mine off 4 times, it happened once), take a flat head screw driver and turn the oil pump so the slot will fit so the marks match. If you run into trouble do not say "eh close enough", the marks need to match. You'll know if the oil pump needs to be turned if the marks don't line up with the OPDA fully inserted.

On a 1-10 (10 hard) this is a 3, only because the bolt is hard to get to.

If you tear the gasket, you can get another at the dealer or just add a little RTV. I didn't tear mine after removing it twice. You can run it without the gasket if you need to replace it.
Edit:
Here is a good pic of the camshaft gear and the oil pump slot. (Page 8 post 115)


Here is a new OPDA with gear and slotted shaft end.

 
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