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Unread 07-31-2005, 06:45 PM   #1
chaznad
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OK , my brakes do not work after my brake job,, why

so i go to replace my front brake pads today as some know( there was another thread bout it) and now they dont work PERIOD, the vehicle will not stop , i ran it in the curb to stop it

this is what i did,,,,, after a really hard time i took the driver side brake pads off , let out all the brake fluid in a cup , put the new ones on , and theyre done ( i think)

keep in mind the jeeps empty of brake fluid its all in a cup waiting for the passenger side to finish

so now its the passenger side turn,,the 2 caliper bolts are stripped bad to where the gator grip couldnt even do it, so i had to finish up because i had no other resort,, i kept the old ones on,, put the tires on and filled the brake fluid back up to FULL

I start the jeep up,, pump the brakes 10+ times ,, and the brake light goes on also the brake pedal has NO resistance at all , it sinks right in when you put your foot on it

please help , im soo pissed , i dont know how im getting to work tomm

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Unread 07-31-2005, 06:59 PM   #2
TJVigilante
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Did you bleed the lines? If you drained the fluid completely, your lines still have alot of air in them which compress. Brake fluid doesn't compress, that's how it works.

I also don't know why you drained brake fluid at all to just change pads...they should have just come out with a little bit of effort.
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Unread 07-31-2005, 07:00 PM   #3
dwilliams35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaznad
so i go to replace my front brake pads today as some know( there was another thread bout it) and now they dont work PERIOD, the vehicle will not stop , i ran it in the curb to stop it

this is what i did,,,,, after a really hard time i took the driver side brake pads off , let out all the brake fluid in a cup , put the new ones on , and theyre done ( i think)

keep in mind the jeeps empty of brake fluid its all in a cup waiting for the passenger side to finish

so now its the passenger side turn,,the 2 caliper bolts are stripped bad to where the gator grip couldnt even do it, so i had to finish up because i had no other resort,, i kept the old ones on,, put the tires on and filled the brake fluid back up to FULL

I start the jeep up,, pump the brakes 10+ times ,, and the brake light goes on also the brake pedal has NO resistance at all , it sinks right in when you put your foot on it

please help , im soo pissed , i dont know how im getting to work tomm
It's gotta have that fluid, and it's quite possible your lines are full of air in the process: air compresses, brake fluid doesn't: you end up with a few thousand psi worth' of air bubble in there and the piston goes nowhere. Next time, just get a big c-clamp and compress the cylinder: you don't have to pull out any fluid, you don't have to bleed it, etc. 10+ times ain't jack in the position you're in: you need to do a for-real bleeding of the brakes: one person at the bleeder valve, one on the pedal, etc. etc.: Also, how the heck did you go about stripping caliper bolts? I've pulled out a few hundred of those, with allen wrenches, torx screws, and standard hex heads, and have yet to get anywhere near stripping the things. One way or another, you've bought yourself a heck of a lot of work that you didn't need to do by letting that fluid out.
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Unread 07-31-2005, 07:01 PM   #4
opticalwaveguy
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Should never have to drain the fluid unless replacing the entire brake assembly.
1. With the old brakes in use 2 long objects in between the pads to push the cylinder to it's backstop. The new brake pads will now fit.

Anyway to help you out,
Fill reservoir to top. with reservoir cover off, use 2 person system to bleed brakes on the side you made the original repairs. You'll probably need to go through 8 to 12 oz. of brake fluid. Next bleed the opposite side. Normal bleeding follows a different pattern but you should probably get your brake lines flushed in the next week. Trust me you will thank yourself for the hassle you missed out on.

edit: frequently check and refill the reservoir while bleeding.

Anyone else?
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Unread 07-31-2005, 07:04 PM   #5
opticalwaveguy
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We all hit him at the same time...LOL
Read these posts, they should help.
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Unread 07-31-2005, 07:33 PM   #6
k8ysv
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At this point I would suggest taking it in to a shop and seeing if they'll be so kind as to remove your stuck caliper bolts and finish your brake job for you. Having one sode good and one side in need of replacement is not a good thing.

Oh, and I'll add my .02 to the pot. Your brakes don't work because you let the fluid out. See if the shop will pressure bleed the system for you after you get it to where it's stopping. Never ever compromise on your brakes. If your Jeep won't move, it can't kill anybody. If it can't stop, it will.

One more suggestion: pick up (and read) a copy of your factory service manual. It will give you the step-by-step of anything you need to do to your Jeep before you tear into it.
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Unread 07-31-2005, 07:57 PM   #7
chaznad
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alrighty then,,,,
the reason why i drianed the brake fluid is because i didnt have a c-clamp and i needed to push the piston in somehow, thats when a broom came in handy, yes ill admit that was stupid but its over and done with ..

as far as stripping the bolts the idiot that owned the jeep before me did that ,, it wasnt me ,,

OK,, Well i now know what i did ,,,how do i go about the 2 person bleeding system,,im kinda not understanding the term "bleed",, right now i have a full reservoir
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Unread 07-31-2005, 08:03 PM   #8
Dogman
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http://4x4xplor.com/brake-bleed.html
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Unread 07-31-2005, 08:04 PM   #9
TJVigilante
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The reservoir is just the tip of the iceberg. Your lines need to be full with no air bubbles. There is a bleeder valve at every wheel, a person familiar with bleeding lines needs to be at that bleeder valve while you depress the brake pedal to push the air out of the system. When fluid starts coming out of the valve, you close it and do all the wheels. It's good medicine to repeat it as well to get everything out. That or you can go to a service shop and have them do it professionally, it shouldn't cost much.
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Unread 07-31-2005, 08:08 PM   #10
lord_byron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaznad
alrighty then,,,,
the reason why i drianed the brake fluid is because i didnt have a c-clamp and i needed to push the piston in somehow, thats when a broom came in handy, yes ill admit that was stupid but its over and done with ..

as far as stripping the bolts the idiot that owned the jeep before me did that ,, it wasnt me ,,

OK,, Well i now know what i did ,,,how do i go about the 2 person bleeding system,,im kinda not understanding the term "bleed",, right now i have a full reservoir
For your own safety, and the safety of everybody in your neighborhood, and on your regular driving route, call a tow truck and have your Jeep towed to a qualified mechanic and have the brakes repaired properly. You have done enough damage!
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Unread 07-31-2005, 08:12 PM   #11
dwilliams35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaznad
alrighty then,,,,
the reason why i drianed the brake fluid is because i didnt have a c-clamp and i needed to push the piston in somehow, thats when a broom came in handy, yes ill admit that was stupid but its over and done with ..

as far as stripping the bolts the idiot that owned the jeep before me did that ,, it wasnt me ,,

OK,, Well i now know what i did ,,,how do i go about the 2 person bleeding system,,im kinda not understanding the term "bleed",, right now i have a full reservoir
Go buy a c-clamp. A 10" or so C-clamp is cheap compared to brake jobs or bent-up rims, fenders, or assorted pedestrian body parts. It'll probably cost you half or less of what your brake pads for one wheel did.
Dogman's link tells you everything you need to know: full reservoir doesn't mean much at this point: the problems are in the lines: there's air in there somewhere: may have even come back into the bleeder fitting when you drained it. What do you have in mind for removing the bolts? They're generally locktited pretty heavily: that's what caused the idiot in question's channellocks to strip the bolts. One way or another, go to the stealership before you start on the other side and get a couple of replacement bolts: they're probably going to be the only ones that have the correct ones, and you sure don't want to put those torn-up ones back in. You may have to weld on a bolt head or something like that to have something to "grab" the old ones with.
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Unread 07-31-2005, 08:33 PM   #12
k8ysv
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As I mentioned in the other thread, I just happened to have done the forst brake job on my TJ this afternoon. The bolts on mine were not Loc-tited at all, but the previous owner of the OP's Jeep may have cross-threaded them. If that's the case, the caliper mounting bracket may have to be re-tapped if possible, replaced if not.

Don't beat yourself up too bad about this. You gotta learn sometime. Just be glad you managed to stop the Jeep with a curb rather than another vehicle or worse.
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Unread 07-31-2005, 08:35 PM   #13
chaznad
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this sux,,, so what do i do with the stripped bolts ,, where can i take those off
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Unread 07-31-2005, 09:22 PM   #14
dwilliams35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaznad
this sux,,, so what do i do with the stripped bolts ,, where can i take those off
You're probably best off to just go ahead and bite the bullet and take it in to a shop that can handle it: they'll either drill them out and use an extractor, weld a bolt onto the old head and use that to screw it out, or one of a few other tricks. One way or another, I doubt you're set up to do any of them if you had to ask. If you've got a friend that's set up a little better, it's not that big a project; but it doesn't sound like you have the "toys" to play this game.
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