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Unread 03-10-2009, 07:03 PM   #121
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What happened to the images in this thread?

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Unread 03-12-2009, 12:28 PM   #122
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Pictures have been reposted.
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Unread 03-12-2009, 01:43 PM   #123
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WIsh we had a subscribe feature, so my post will be it.
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Unread 03-12-2009, 03:19 PM   #124
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WIsh we had a subscribe feature, so my post will be it.
We do......click the thread tools link above.
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Unread 03-12-2009, 04:39 PM   #125
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WIsh we had a subscribe feature, so my post will be it.
The setting you need is in your User CP page somewhere it's called the "Default Thread Subsription" or something like that and you'll need to choose an option from the dropdown box...
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Unread 04-10-2009, 07:08 PM   #126
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anyone know the length of the stock bolts? I understand 03+ are 12mmx1.75, but whats the overall length?
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Unread 04-10-2009, 07:12 PM   #127
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
anyone know the length of the stock bolts? I understand 03+ are 12mmx1.75, but whats the overall length?
Since it's a countersunk hex head bolt, where do you want the length measured from?
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Unread 04-10-2009, 07:17 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Since it's a countersunk hex head bolt, where do you want the length measured from?
total length, head to tip.

made a 1" t-case drop out of 6061T6 and need 1" longer than stock class 10.9's.
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Unread 04-10-2009, 08:05 PM   #129
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
total length, head to tip.

made a 1" t-case drop out of 6061T6 and need 1" longer than stock class 10.9's.
Overall length is 50,0mm and the length from the top of the countersink to the end of the bolt is 40,0mm.
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Unread 04-10-2009, 08:11 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Overall length is 50,0mm and the length from the top of the countersink to the end of the bolt is 40,0mm.
awesome, thank you mrblaine
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Unread 04-18-2009, 10:59 AM   #131
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I've received many emails about this thread and thought it could use a comparison photo that shows the difference between the commonly available generic nutsert and the OEM version.



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Unread 04-20-2009, 08:02 AM   #132
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the generic ones worked fine for me
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Unread 04-20-2009, 08:15 AM   #133
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I feel an overwhelming desire to put my two cents worth in here... I HATE NUTSERTS! Why couldnt Jeep just use a weldnut or thicken that are of the frame and drill and tap it or, or, or, or... anyhting else!!!!!! :
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Unread 04-20-2009, 09:57 AM   #134
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Originally Posted by les.delancy View Post
I feel an overwhelming desire to put my two cents worth in here... I HATE NUTSERTS! Why couldnt Jeep just use a weldnut or thicken that are of the frame and drill and tap it or, or, or, or... anyhting else!!!!!! :
Not picking on you, but I'd like you to envision things from a manufacturing standpoint. You need a cost effective durable method to put threads in a rectangular tube that you only have single side access on.

A weld nut only works if you can get to the backside and apply pressure to hold it in place to resistance weld it. If you look at the front frame horns, there are weld nuts in there and you can see why. Full access to clamp and weld.

So, to satisfy your requirements, how would you do it? It is not even remotely feasible to thicken the frame and thread it, but if you could, imagine the threads where that part rusted the bolt in place and then the bolt broke off.

I realize that nutserts bother folks, but they are a god send from a manufacturing standpoint. Cost effective, very durable, replaceable if need be, and very effective from a strength perspective.

Before you pick on the durability, the fact that they rust together and fail is not the fault of the nut sert. It's the location that's the problem. Any threaded hole there will suffer the same fate.
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Unread 04-26-2009, 09:21 PM   #135
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OEMs

I got my local dealer to price match an online dealer and got the OEMs for $6. I figured that was a good deal since he eats the shipping. While the instructions by the OP are excellent, they don't mention what a giant PITA this task is! I will add a couple details to his:
1. After grinding the tack welds and drilling the 9/16 holes, remove the heads with the chisel. It just shears off.
2. In order for the nutsert to get some traction when you are trying to get it started, press it against the frame rail at a slight angle. Only do this long enough to get it started.
Again, this project sucked but is now done and I feel good about the skid plate installation. Thanks again to the OP for this info
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Last edited by George Dickel; 04-26-2009 at 09:22 PM.. Reason: typo
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