Nutsert for Transfer Case Removal and Install - Page 7 - JeepForum.com

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post #91 of 555 Old 07-18-2008, 11:50 AM
Gomofast
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I just found these on McMaster, they look very similar to the OE nutserts...

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/s_lucent/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-15.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/s_lucent/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-16.jpg[/IMG]


08 JK Unlimited X, 2" Black Diamond lift, 33's, 1.5" wheel spacers, stubby bumper mod.

98 TJ Sport, 4" Rough Country Lift, homemade discos,
35" BFG Mud Terrain T/A KM's, 4.56 gears, Detroit Truetrac
up front, factory Trac-Lok out back,Warn M8274 8000lb
winch, York OBA, rock guards, custom intake, 48" HI Lift.
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post #92 of 555 Old 07-18-2008, 11:51 AM
Gomofast
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Oops, let me try that again

08 JK Unlimited X, 2" Black Diamond lift, 33's, 1.5" wheel spacers, stubby bumper mod.

98 TJ Sport, 4" Rough Country Lift, homemade discos,
35" BFG Mud Terrain T/A KM's, 4.56 gears, Detroit Truetrac
up front, factory Trac-Lok out back,Warn M8274 8000lb
winch, York OBA, rock guards, custom intake, 48" HI Lift.
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post #93 of 555 Old 07-18-2008, 11:54 AM
Gomofast
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They call these "weld nuts"... they don't crush and expand like the rivet nuts do... you just weld them in. I think this is more like what came in my 98 from the factory.

08 JK Unlimited X, 2" Black Diamond lift, 33's, 1.5" wheel spacers, stubby bumper mod.

98 TJ Sport, 4" Rough Country Lift, homemade discos,
35" BFG Mud Terrain T/A KM's, 4.56 gears, Detroit Truetrac
up front, factory Trac-Lok out back,Warn M8274 8000lb
winch, York OBA, rock guards, custom intake, 48" HI Lift.
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post #94 of 555 Old 07-22-2008, 01:21 PM
esad_b
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OffTopic not transfer case related but: Does anyone know the nutserts and screws id need to install a set of rubicon rocker guards on my 97 TJ?
And do you need a tool to install nutserts? Like im completely lost on this stuff

Thanks,
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post #95 of 555 Old 08-08-2008, 06:51 PM
monkeychrist
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just to add to this already greatly informative thread, the part number for the bolts is 6507904aa. This is for the newer model 12mm bolts 06 and up.

The dealer I went to had no idea what I was talking about, and I had to walk him through the computer to get the right thing. Then, after placing the order he hemmed and hawed saying if they were the wrong thing I was stuck with them since it was a special order. I think his biggest issue was I had a 98 but was looking for an 06 and up part.

Either way, that may help some of you when ordering.

Thanks to MrBlaine for the nutserts and Bduece for the thread!

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...but one day while driving, I heard a twang and saw a little orange bungee go shooting off into traffic...
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post #96 of 555 Old 08-09-2008, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomofast View Post
So you drilled straight up through the top of the frame too and put a regular nut on the topside? That makes sense if there's enough clearance on top of the framerail. Why hasn't anybody else thought of this?
From the FSM...
Quote:
DRILLING HOLES
Do not drill holes in the top and bottom of frame rail, metal fatigue can result causing frame failure. Holes drilled in the side of the frame rail must be at
least 38 mm (1.5 in.) from the top and bottom flanges.
Additional drill holes should be located away from existing holes.

Online factory service manuals and parts lists - http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
If it doesn't work properly, look for the service manual link at the bottom of the page.
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post #97 of 555 Old 08-21-2008, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
BDuece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafikie View Post
I just drilled all mine out with a 1/2 bit up through the frame rail and put a 7" bolt (had 1 3/4" drop kit) with a nylok on the top cheap fix and zero problems
Drilling through the frame isn't a good idea. Besides the metal fatigue your putting clamping pressure on the frame. This isn't a good idea unless you installed a sleeve inside the frame to prevent crushing. Are you going to have a problem? Probable not! But there is a possibility.
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post #98 of 555 Old 08-21-2008, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDuece View Post
Drilling through the frame isn't a good idea. Besides the metal fatigue your putting clamping pressure on the frame. This isn't a good idea unless you installed a sleeve inside the frame to prevent crushing. Are you going to have a problem? Probable not! But there is a possibility.
I completely agree with this statement. I drilled through the frame on a 1998 Sahara I had and no problems what so ever and I think that 99.7% of time you wouldn't have a problem. It is nice to do things right and if you plan on keeping your jeep, the nutsert install is the way to go. Great write up.

Definition of Rubicon:
A limit that when passed or exceeded permits of no return and typically results in irrevocable commitment.
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post #99 of 555 Old 08-21-2008, 06:35 AM
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I'm not worried about crushing the frame. I used lock nuts, so I wouldn't have to use a ton of clamping force to keep them tight.

08 JK Unlimited X, 2" Black Diamond lift, 33's, 1.5" wheel spacers, stubby bumper mod.

98 TJ Sport, 4" Rough Country Lift, homemade discos,
35" BFG Mud Terrain T/A KM's, 4.56 gears, Detroit Truetrac
up front, factory Trac-Lok out back,Warn M8274 8000lb
winch, York OBA, rock guards, custom intake, 48" HI Lift.
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post #100 of 555 Old 08-21-2008, 06:58 AM
Rafikie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomofast View Post
I'm not worried about crushing the frame. I used lock nuts, so I wouldn't have to use a ton of clamping force to keep them tight.

Same here!! I use new nylok nuts every time I re-install it and only tighten it enough to keep everything secure. If it was C channel I'd be leery to do this, but solid tubing I have zero worries. Thanks for the concern

2000 TJ WW build in progress
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post #101 of 555 Old 10-02-2008, 06:56 PM
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I used a different method when I had this problem. I ground off the heads of the bolts, then dropped the skid. Then I used a heavy ballpeen hammer and just hammered the studs that were exposed back up into the frame. At this point, you can either leave them loose in your frame or if you are like me Absolutely Neurotic About Life, then you can fish them out with a piece of wire. This just leaves the face of the nutsert attached at the frame. This I just crushed with channel locks until I could pull it out of the hole. Now, the disclaimer- my frame is in great shape and no rust, so I felt comfortable doing this, knowing I would not damage the frame. Just my .02.
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post #102 of 555 Old 10-02-2008, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeychrist View Post
just to add to this already greatly informative thread, the part number for the bolts is 6507904aa. This is for the newer model 12mm bolts 06 and up.

The dealer I went to had no idea what I was talking about, and I had to walk him through the computer to get the right thing. Then, after placing the order he hemmed and hawed saying if they were the wrong thing I was stuck with them since it was a special order. I think his biggest issue was I had a 98 but was looking for an 06 and up part.

Either way, that may help some of you when ordering.

Thanks to MrBlaine for the nutserts and Bduece for the thread!
I thought DC went metric in '03?

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post #103 of 555 Old 10-02-2008, 08:55 PM
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One of mine is stripped inside. Any further progress?

1998 TJ, 4.0L Auto and various junk
Rolled Red Jeep Club Member #7
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post #104 of 555 Old 11-13-2008, 09:39 AM
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I read all these pages with intertest, as I also have need to fix the skid/frame.

BUT...

I have a Yj.
Is the Yj nutsert the same as an older(pre '06) Tj?
(1/2 inch x13)

My Jeep stealership is no help at all and tell me those parts are not available, unless I give him a part number.
But the part number is not cross-referenced by size or year. and are only special order($12.50 each) and can not be returned if wrong.

So...Is this correct?
part number 6035739 is the number for pre'06 Tj's? And is sea 1/2x13? And the Yj?
part number 6506 629AA is for '06 -newer? and is metric 12mmx13?

What information does anyone have for a Yj?
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post #105 of 555 Old 11-13-2008, 01:49 PM
will228
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doesnt matter. get whatever nutcerts they have. you have to drill the holes out anyway. if the certs they give u require a different bolt size just go buy em at the hardware store.
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