[Gomofast]

I just found these on McMaster, they look very similar to the OE nutserts...

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/s_lucent/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-15.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/s_lucent/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-16.jpg[/IMG]

[Gomofast]

Oops, let me try that again

[Gomofast]

They call these "weld nuts"... they don't crush and expand like the rivet nuts do... you just weld them in. I think this is more like what came in my 98 from the factory.

[esad_b]

OffTopic not transfer case related but: Does anyone know the nutserts and screws id need to install a set of rubicon rocker guards on my 97 TJ?
And do you need a tool to install nutserts? Like im completely lost on this stuff

Thanks,

[monkeychrist]

just to add to this already greatly informative thread, the part number for the bolts is 6507904aa. This is for the newer model 12mm bolts 06 and up.

The dealer I went to had no idea what I was talking about, and I had to walk him through the computer to get the right thing. Then, after placing the order he hemmed and hawed saying if they were the wrong thing I was stuck with them since it was a special order. I think his biggest issue was I had a 98 but was looking for an 06 and up part.

Either way, that may help some of you when ordering.

Thanks to MrBlaine for the nutserts and Bduece for the thread!

[Jonny Jeep]

Originally Posted by Gomofast

So you drilled straight up through the top of the frame too and put a regular nut on the topside? That makes sense if there's enough clearance on top of the framerail. Why hasn't anybody else thought of this?

From the FSM...

DRILLING HOLES
Do not drill holes in the top and bottom of frame rail, metal fatigue can result causing frame failure. Holes drilled in the side of the frame rail must be at
least 38 mm (1.5 in.) from the top and bottom flanges.
Additional drill holes should be located away from existing holes.

[BDuece]

Originally Posted by Rafikie

I just drilled all mine out with a 1/2 bit up through the frame rail and put a 7" bolt (had 1 3/4" drop kit) with a nylok on the top cheap fix and zero problems

Drilling through the frame isn't a good idea. Besides the metal fatigue your putting clamping pressure on the frame. This isn't a good idea unless you installed a sleeve inside the frame to prevent crushing. Are you going to have a problem? Probable not! But there is a possibility.

[fisher836]

Originally Posted by BDuece

Drilling through the frame isn't a good idea. Besides the metal fatigue your putting clamping pressure on the frame. This isn't a good idea unless you installed a sleeve inside the frame to prevent crushing. Are you going to have a problem? Probable not! But there is a possibility.

I completely agree with this statement. I drilled through the frame on a 1998 Sahara I had and no problems what so ever and I think that 99.7% of time you wouldn't have a problem. It is nice to do things right and if you plan on keeping your jeep, the nutsert install is the way to go. Great write up.

[Gomofast]

I'm not worried about crushing the frame. I used lock nuts, so I wouldn't have to use a ton of clamping force to keep them tight.

[Rafikie]

Originally Posted by Gomofast

I'm not worried about crushing the frame. I used lock nuts, so I wouldn't have to use a ton of clamping force to keep them tight.

Same here!! I use new nylok nuts every time I re-install it and only tighten it enough to keep everything secure. If it was C channel I'd be leery to do this, but solid tubing I have zero worries. Thanks for the concern

[dbbd1]

I used a different method when I had this problem. I ground off the heads of the bolts, then dropped the skid. Then I used a heavy ballpeen hammer and just hammered the studs that were exposed back up into the frame. At this point, you can either leave them loose in your frame or if you are like me Absolutely Neurotic About Life, then you can fish them out with a piece of wire. This just leaves the face of the nutsert attached at the frame. This I just crushed with channel locks until I could pull it out of the hole. Now, the disclaimer- my frame is in great shape and no rust, so I felt comfortable doing this, knowing I would not damage the frame. Just my .02.

[undercoverfab]

Originally Posted by monkeychrist

just to add to this already greatly informative thread, the part number for the bolts is 6507904aa. This is for the newer model 12mm bolts 06 and up.

The dealer I went to had no idea what I was talking about, and I had to walk him through the computer to get the right thing. Then, after placing the order he hemmed and hawed saying if they were the wrong thing I was stuck with them since it was a special order. I think his biggest issue was I had a 98 but was looking for an 06 and up part.

Either way, that may help some of you when ordering.

Thanks to MrBlaine for the nutserts and Bduece for the thread!

I thought DC went metric in '03?

[Jeepguy1977]

One of mine is stripped inside. Any further progress?

[jeepster93]

I read all these pages with intertest, as I also have need to fix the skid/frame.

BUT...

I have a Yj.
Is the Yj nutsert the same as an older(pre '06) Tj?
(1/2 inch x13)

My Jeep stealership is no help at all and tell me those parts are not available, unless I give him a part number.
But the part number is not cross-referenced by size or year. and are only special order($12.50 each) and can not be returned if wrong.

So...Is this correct?
part number 6035739 is the number for pre'06 Tj's? And is sea 1/2x13? And the Yj?
part number 6506 629AA is for '06 -newer? and is metric 12mmx13?

What information does anyone have for a Yj?

[will228]

doesnt matter. get whatever nutcerts they have. you have to drill the holes out anyway. if the certs they give u require a different bolt size just go buy em at the hardware store.