Nutsert for Transfer Case Removal and Install - Page 6

KnetAZ · 05-09-2008, 01:57 PM

So what ever happened with this?

I ask because I have several of these nutserts, along with the bolts, nuts and washers to be able to install them and don't need them anymore. I was thinking of making up 4 or 5 kits of these for folks that need them, so I can get rid of them.

**crgrissom** · 05-09-2008, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KnetAZ

So what ever happened with this?

I ask because I have several of these nutserts, along with the bolts, nuts and washers to be able to install them and don't need them anymore. I was thinking of making up 4 or 5 kits of these for folks that need them, so I can get rid of them.

You have some for 03+ TJ TC skid mounts to frame? I would like to have some spares for the inevitable.

Chuck

Xlr8n · 05-09-2008, 03:16 PM

I was wondering what anyone thought about the possibility of using anti-seize and a lock washer rather than loctite when re-installing the skid bolts. If you get them to come out with no issues, you could clean the bolt threads and use antiseize knowing that you don't have to worry problems down the road. I'm just not sure if a lockwasher used on the bolt head going through the skid would keep it from backing off or not. Any thoughts?

BlueFlame · 05-09-2008, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xlr8n

I was wondering what anyone thought about the possibility of using anti-seize and a lock washer rather than loctite when re-installing the skid bolts. If you get them to come out with no issues, you could clean the bolt threads and use antiseize knowing that you don't have to worry problems down the road. I'm just not sure if a lockwasher used on the bolt head going through the skid would keep it from backing off or not. Any thoughts?

Drill the heads and safety wire them?

KnetAZ · 05-10-2008, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crgrissom

You have some for 03+ TJ TC skid mounts to frame? I would like to have some spares for the inevitable.

Chuck

Yep, PM me if you want them, details here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5199113#post5199113

daveyramone · 05-12-2008, 12:12 PM

So seeing that the TC skid is an integral part of the frame, would it be compromised in any way when installing a TC skid drop? I've seen many Jeeps that simply used washers and longer bolts to drop the TC skid... I'd think that the shear stresses on the bolts would be increased quite a bit when the frame starts flexing with a set-up like this. Am I completely off base? I'm guessing a piece of square tubing would be a better substitute for washers if a person was home fabbing a TC skid drop. What do the aftermarket use for drop spacers and fasteners?

BDuece · 05-22-2008, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xlr8n

I was wondering what anyone thought about the possibility of using anti-seize and a lock washer rather than loctite when re-installing the skid bolts. If you get them to come out with no issues, you could clean the bolt threads and use antiseize knowing that you don't have to worry problems down the road. I'm just not sure if a lockwasher used on the bolt head going through the skid would keep it from backing off or not. Any thoughts?

When I did mine I tac welded the nutserts in. I also used anti seize on the bolts. I've check them a couple of times since I installed them and they have not loosened.
I think the reason why they fail is the design of the frame. Water, dirt , mud, etc. collect in the frame. This causes rust of course. Well on mine, the ends of the bolts rusted and bulged. When the bolts are in the nutsert they extend above the nutsert about 3/8 of an inch. That 3/8 of an inch gets caked with mud and moisture. That area rusts and bulges. When you attempt to loosen the bolts, the rusted area of the bolt prevents the bolt from coming out. It locks onto the nutsert and the weaker of the 2 two loosen. If the rust is minor, the bolt comes out. If the rust is extensive it locks onto the nutsert and the loctite breaks, then the nutsert spins. In some cases the top of the nutsert breaks away from the base (thats what happend to mine).
After the nutsert incident I started rinsing the frame out through the frame holes in the front. It leaves some water in the frame but it's better than wet mud!

**Gomofast** · 07-17-2008, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrblaine

If they tell me that the small flange style is an acceptable substitute, then that's good news for everyone.

mrblaine, did you ever get an answer from AVK? Is the small flange style an acceptable substitute?

Does anybody have the part number of the 1/2" version from mcmaster?

Scotch740 · 07-17-2008, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gomofast

...
Does anybody have the part number of the 1/2" version from mcmaster?

Did you even try to search their site

95105A169

**Gomofast** · 07-17-2008, 01:48 PM

Thanks, I wasn't sure if the thread was 1/2 - 20 or 1/2 - 13.

And this one (95105A169) says that if fits a material thickness range of .063" - .200", I wanted to make sure that would work too.

Rafikie · 07-17-2008, 02:23 PM

I just drilled all mine out with a 1/2 bit up through the frame rail and put a 7" bolt (had 1 3/4" drop kit) with a nylok on the top cheap fix and zero problems

**Gomofast** · 07-17-2008, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rafikie

I just drilled all mine out with a 1/2 bit up through the frame rail and put a 7" bolt (had 1 3/4" drop kit) with a nylok on the top cheap fix and zero problems

So you drilled straight up through the top of the frame too and put a regular nut on the topside? That makes sense if there's enough clearance on top of the framerail. Why hasn't anybody else thought of this?

Rafikie · 07-17-2008, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gomofast

So you drilled straight up through the top of the frame too and put a regular nut on the topside? That makes sense if there's enough clearance on top of the framerail. Why hasn't anybody else thought of this?

it's tight but it works

Scotch740 · 07-17-2008, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gomofast

Thanks, I wasn't sure if the thread was 1/2 - 20 or 1/2 - 13.

And this one (95105A169) says that if fits a material thickness range of .063" - .200", I wanted to make sure that would work too.

That works for 1/8" to 3/16" steel, I don't think our frames are any thicker than that. As for the bolts I am not sure of the thread size but replacing bolts is easy and the only option on McMaster is for 13tpi.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rafikie

I just drilled all mine out with a 1/2 bit up through the frame rail and put a 7" bolt (had 1 3/4" drop kit) with a nylok on the top cheap fix and zero problems

My only concern here would be crushing the frame a little if you torque the bolts to proper spec. While working on a project at work just hand tightening a bolt with a box end wrench I started to crush in 1/8" wall stainless steel 2x2. Just watch how much you torque them down, and realize you may not want to go as tight as factory specs, what ever that is.

Rafikie · 07-17-2008, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scotch740

My only concern here would be crushing the frame a little if you torque the bolts to proper spec. While working on a project at work just hand tightening a bolt with a box end wrench I started to crush in 1/8" wall stainless steel 2x2. Just watch how much you torque them down, and realize you may not want to go as tight as factory specs, what ever that is.

I just hit them with the impact and the nylok keeps them from backing off. had it like that for over a year and I haven't lost one yet. As far as the frame goes I've had zero problems there aswell.