Nutsert for Transfer Case Removal and Install - Page 6 - JeepForum.com

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post #76 of 555 Old 05-09-2008, 12:57 PM
KnetAZ
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So what ever happened with this?

I ask because I have several of these nutserts, along with the bolts, nuts and washers to be able to install them and don't need them anymore. I was thinking of making up 4 or 5 kits of these for folks that need them, so I can get rid of them.


'03 TJ Rubicon, lifted, tucked, caged, wired, etc.
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post #77 of 555 Old 05-09-2008, 02:07 PM
crgrissom
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Originally Posted by KnetAZ View Post
So what ever happened with this?

I ask because I have several of these nutserts, along with the bolts, nuts and washers to be able to install them and don't need them anymore. I was thinking of making up 4 or 5 kits of these for folks that need them, so I can get rid of them.
You have some for 03+ TJ TC skid mounts to frame? I would like to have some spares for the inevitable.

Chuck

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post #78 of 555 Old 05-09-2008, 02:16 PM
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I was wondering what anyone thought about the possibility of using anti-seize and a lock washer rather than loctite when re-installing the skid bolts. If you get them to come out with no issues, you could clean the bolt threads and use antiseize knowing that you don't have to worry problems down the road. I'm just not sure if a lockwasher used on the bolt head going through the skid would keep it from backing off or not. Any thoughts?
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post #79 of 555 Old 05-09-2008, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Xlr8n View Post
I was wondering what anyone thought about the possibility of using anti-seize and a lock washer rather than loctite when re-installing the skid bolts. If you get them to come out with no issues, you could clean the bolt threads and use antiseize knowing that you don't have to worry problems down the road. I'm just not sure if a lockwasher used on the bolt head going through the skid would keep it from backing off or not. Any thoughts?
Drill the heads and safety wire them?
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post #80 of 555 Old 05-10-2008, 08:11 AM
KnetAZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crgrissom View Post
You have some for 03+ TJ TC skid mounts to frame? I would like to have some spares for the inevitable.

Chuck
Yep, PM me if you want them, details here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...13#post5199113

'03 TJ Rubicon, lifted, tucked, caged, wired, etc.
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post #81 of 555 Old 05-12-2008, 11:12 AM
daveyramone
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So seeing that the TC skid is an integral part of the frame, would it be compromised in any way when installing a TC skid drop? I've seen many Jeeps that simply used washers and longer bolts to drop the TC skid... I'd think that the shear stresses on the bolts would be increased quite a bit when the frame starts flexing with a set-up like this. Am I completely off base? I'm guessing a piece of square tubing would be a better substitute for washers if a person was home fabbing a TC skid drop. What do the aftermarket use for drop spacers and fasteners?

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post #82 of 555 Old 05-22-2008, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xlr8n View Post
I was wondering what anyone thought about the possibility of using anti-seize and a lock washer rather than loctite when re-installing the skid bolts. If you get them to come out with no issues, you could clean the bolt threads and use antiseize knowing that you don't have to worry problems down the road. I'm just not sure if a lockwasher used on the bolt head going through the skid would keep it from backing off or not. Any thoughts?
When I did mine I tac welded the nutserts in. I also used anti seize on the bolts. I've check them a couple of times since I installed them and they have not loosened.
I think the reason why they fail is the design of the frame. Water, dirt , mud, etc. collect in the frame. This causes rust of course. Well on mine, the ends of the bolts rusted and bulged. When the bolts are in the nutsert they extend above the nutsert about 3/8 of an inch. That 3/8 of an inch gets caked with mud and moisture. That area rusts and bulges. When you attempt to loosen the bolts, the rusted area of the bolt prevents the bolt from coming out. It locks onto the nutsert and the weaker of the 2 two loosen. If the rust is minor, the bolt comes out. If the rust is extensive it locks onto the nutsert and the loctite breaks, then the nutsert spins. In some cases the top of the nutsert breaks away from the base (thats what happend to mine).
After the nutsert incident I started rinsing the frame out through the frame holes in the front. It leaves some water in the frame but it's better than wet mud!

Last edited by BDuece; 10-05-2009 at 08:13 AM.
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post #83 of 555 Old 07-17-2008, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post

If they tell me that the small flange style is an acceptable substitute, then that's good news for everyone.
mrblaine, did you ever get an answer from AVK? Is the small flange style an acceptable substitute?

Does anybody have the part number of the 1/2" version from mcmaster?

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post #84 of 555 Old 07-17-2008, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Gomofast View Post
...
Does anybody have the part number of the 1/2" version from mcmaster?
Did you even try to search their site

95105A169
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post #85 of 555 Old 07-17-2008, 12:48 PM
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Thanks, I wasn't sure if the thread was 1/2 - 20 or 1/2 - 13.

And this one (95105A169) says that if fits a material thickness range of .063" - .200", I wanted to make sure that would work too.

08 JK Unlimited X, 2" Black Diamond lift, 33's, 1.5" wheel spacers, stubby bumper mod.

98 TJ Sport, 4" Rough Country Lift, homemade discos,
35" BFG Mud Terrain T/A KM's, 4.56 gears, Detroit Truetrac
up front, factory Trac-Lok out back,Warn M8274 8000lb
winch, York OBA, rock guards, custom intake, 48" HI Lift.
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post #86 of 555 Old 07-17-2008, 01:23 PM
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I just drilled all mine out with a 1/2 bit up through the frame rail and put a 7" bolt (had 1 3/4" drop kit) with a nylok on the top cheap fix and zero problems

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post #87 of 555 Old 07-17-2008, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rafikie View Post
I just drilled all mine out with a 1/2 bit up through the frame rail and put a 7" bolt (had 1 3/4" drop kit) with a nylok on the top cheap fix and zero problems
So you drilled straight up through the top of the frame too and put a regular nut on the topside? That makes sense if there's enough clearance on top of the framerail. Why hasn't anybody else thought of this?

08 JK Unlimited X, 2" Black Diamond lift, 33's, 1.5" wheel spacers, stubby bumper mod.

98 TJ Sport, 4" Rough Country Lift, homemade discos,
35" BFG Mud Terrain T/A KM's, 4.56 gears, Detroit Truetrac
up front, factory Trac-Lok out back,Warn M8274 8000lb
winch, York OBA, rock guards, custom intake, 48" HI Lift.
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post #88 of 555 Old 07-17-2008, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Gomofast View Post
So you drilled straight up through the top of the frame too and put a regular nut on the topside? That makes sense if there's enough clearance on top of the framerail. Why hasn't anybody else thought of this?
it's tight but it works

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post #89 of 555 Old 07-17-2008, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Gomofast View Post
Thanks, I wasn't sure if the thread was 1/2 - 20 or 1/2 - 13.

And this one (95105A169) says that if fits a material thickness range of .063" - .200", I wanted to make sure that would work too.
That works for 1/8" to 3/16" steel, I don't think our frames are any thicker than that. As for the bolts I am not sure of the thread size but replacing bolts is easy and the only option on McMaster is for 13tpi.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafikie View Post
I just drilled all mine out with a 1/2 bit up through the frame rail and put a 7" bolt (had 1 3/4" drop kit) with a nylok on the top cheap fix and zero problems
My only concern here would be crushing the frame a little if you torque the bolts to proper spec. While working on a project at work just hand tightening a bolt with a box end wrench I started to crush in 1/8" wall stainless steel 2x2. Just watch how much you torque them down, and realize you may not want to go as tight as factory specs, what ever that is.
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post #90 of 555 Old 07-17-2008, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by scotch740 View Post
My only concern here would be crushing the frame a little if you torque the bolts to proper spec. While working on a project at work just hand tightening a bolt with a box end wrench I started to crush in 1/8" wall stainless steel 2x2. Just watch how much you torque them down, and realize you may not want to go as tight as factory specs, what ever that is.

I just hit them with the impact and the nylok keeps them from backing off. had it like that for over a year and I haven't lost one yet. As far as the frame goes I've had zero problems there aswell.

2000 TJ WW build in progress
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