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Unread 04-07-2014, 08:36 AM   #526
mrblaine
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Originally Posted by rustbuilder View Post
I don't know about the rest of the country,But in Oklahoma and texas they are sending the wrong nutrivets out from the dallas pdc,And I cant find the correct ones. They are sending ones that are 11/16 and doesn't even fit in the frame. Fastenal told me no luck on one to fit 5/8s hole.
I ordered a pair of nutserts, one of each for the early and late skids about 7 years ago, they were in the wrong bags and both had the wrong part number. Confused the crap out of me for a long time.

We got some more stock in, we've got about 8000 or so on hand.

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Unread 03-05-2015, 05:03 PM   #527
dereklum
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Apologies for the old thread bump, but I'm going to be doing this tomorrow and I wanted to know if the original nutserts will fall down to the floor or if they're going to have to be hammered up into the frame after grinding down the welds. I saw a YouTube video of a guy doing it and after grinding off the welds, he said he had to hammer the threaded portion into the frame rail and fish them out with a magnet. Not sure if it makes a difference, but this video was on a YJ.
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Unread 03-05-2015, 05:46 PM   #528
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Originally Posted by dereklum View Post
Apologies for the old thread bump, but I'm going to be doing this tomorrow and I wanted to know if the original nutserts will fall down to the floor or if they're going to have to be hammered up into the frame after grinding down the welds. I saw a YouTube video of a guy doing it and after grinding off the welds, he said he had to hammer the threaded portion into the frame rail and fish them out with a magnet. Not sure if it makes a difference, but this video was on a YJ.
Yes they will likely fall inside the frame and you will have to fish them out if you really want them removed.
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Unread Yesterday, 07:40 PM   #529
tjames987
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what about skipping the nutserts and just drill up through the frame [bottom and top] and insert a long bolt and nut/washer on top??? Much faster fix than the nut serts.

any thoughts?
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Unread Yesterday, 08:28 PM   #530
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Originally Posted by tjames987 View Post
what about skipping the nutserts and just drill up through the frame [bottom and top] and insert a long bolt and nut/washer on top??? Much faster fix than the nut serts.

any thoughts?
Through bolting box frame bad idea!
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Unread Yesterday, 09:06 PM   #531
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjames987 View Post
what about skipping the nutserts and just drill up through the frame [bottom and top] and insert a long bolt and nut/washer on top??? Much faster fix than the nut serts.

any thoughts?
The only big concern is you are depending on the relatively thin .150 ish wall thickness to not compress when you tighten the bolts and then keep them tight.

It would be relatively easy to make a nice washer for the top that would prevent that though. Something about 3/16" thick like some of the currently available weld washers should do the trick quite nicely.

The bottom will be fine due to the skid spanning the width with another layer of steel so not much concern there. You'll need bolts about 5-5 1/2" long depending on if you keep the lower countersunk washers on the pre-03 versions.

The single biggest challenge will be drilling up through the bottom and making the hole where you want in the top. I've done similar but I had the tub off and just laid out and drilled the top hole.

Oh, it won't be a faster fix. I can have the 6 nutserts ground off and back in place fully set in about 30 minutes or less.
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Unread Today, 07:07 AM   #532
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I broke down and got a tool for under $40 on Amazon and the nutcerts are less than a buck a pop from Fastenal. I'm finding more and more uses for this. Mine does M6 - M12, and I can get the SAE mandrels to do comparable sizes. M8's work like butter. I can't wait to try it with some M10's.

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Unread Today, 07:47 AM   #533
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Originally Posted by dagr8tim View Post
I broke down and got a tool for under $40 on Amazon and the nutcerts are less than a buck a pop from Fastenal. I'm finding more and more uses for this. Mine does M6 - M12, and I can get the SAE mandrels to do comparable sizes. M8's work like butter. I can't wait to try it with some M10's.

Link?
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Unread Today, 07:54 AM   #534
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Originally Posted by ravenworks View Post
Link?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Unread Today, 08:18 AM   #535
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dagr8tim View Post
I broke down and got a tool for under $40 on Amazon and the nutcerts are less than a buck a pop from Fastenal. I'm finding more and more uses for this. Mine does M6 - M12, and I can get the SAE mandrels to do comparable sizes. M8's work like butter. I can't wait to try it with some M10's.

Can you get a 1/2-13 nosepiece and mandrel for it? If so, do you think it has enough grunt to set the heavy nutserts in the frame?

If you're willing, I'll certainly be glad to send you some of the ones for the frame and belly skid to test for us. I'd love to be able to offer a link to a tool that works and doesn't cost a fortune.
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Unread Today, 09:01 AM   #536
dagr8tim
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Can you get a 1/2-13 nosepiece and mandrel for it? If so, do you think it has enough grunt to set the heavy nutserts in the frame?

If you're willing, I'll certainly be glad to send you some of the ones for the frame and belly skid to test for us. I'd love to be able to offer a link to a tool that works and doesn't cost a fortune.
Half inch is 12.7mm. The tool is all steel and rated for 12mm.

I contacted the company to see about the nose pieces. I also found they carry this.
http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumati...et+Nut+Kit+SAE

EDIT:
If I was going to be doing a ton of these, I'd probably break down and get this and source the noses elsewhere. They appear to be pretty standard between brands.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...2968667&sr=8-1
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