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Unread 06-04-2009, 03:28 PM   #151
AngusTJ
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haha, i meant the ENITIRE jeep

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I know how bad the D35 is in the rear, but would it be bad to have one in the front?
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yes, you wouldn't be able to steer
98' TJ, 4" Superlift, JKS 1.25" BL/ 1" MML, 8k Gorilla winch, Cowl intake, D30 Aussie, shafts/D44 Powertraxx, shafts (4.56's), Rusty's Adj CA's front/ RE Adj CA's rear, Recessed tails, sway discnct'd, 152 db train horns, 34x10.5 LTB's Amer Rac/36x13.5 Irok's Streetlocks, Grenade shifter, Pioneer deck/speakers, Warn bumpers, KC upper lite mts/Slim lites, EBC yellows, 40 series Flowmaster, couple tasteful more ...
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Unread 06-06-2009, 06:42 AM   #152
kaybone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mini-Me26 View Post
Just throwing this out there, so forgive my ignorance, but would it be possible to just forget the nutsert technique and use a nut in the frame? Access the nut through a hole in the side of the frame by the mounting holes, the new hole would be just large enough to fit a socket, then ratchet through (or combo wrench, whatever works).
Yeah, I think so. Here is my alternative solution that I posted earlier on my 99TJ in the middle of a clutch job when 3 of them where stripped out:

Here is a simple way to fix this problem:

I just got finished dealing with this right in the middle of my clutch job. All 3 of them stripped out on my passanger side. There is a real easy fix to this which worked well for me. I got the basic idea from Yasmar on the Jeepsunlimited.com forum.

Here's what ya can do.

First, if the bolts and nutserts are stripped, get them as loose as you can and saw them off with a good fresh hacksaw blade or sawzall blade. With a sharp blade it goes quickly! I used both. Push the remains of the bolt and top of the busted nutsert up through the hole and out of your way. Yeah, I know they are still in your frame, but if you live in the great white north like I do, there is so much rust and gunk in the frame they won't rattle around. just leave them in there.

Go buy 3-3" 1/2 boltsx13thread bolts, grade 8 if you can get them threaded all the way to the top, or regular bolts if not.
(I needed the 3" length because I have a homemade transfer case drop installed with 1" sections of pipe between my skid and my frame. So your bolts might need to be shorter) Also buy 9-1/2 nuts, 9 washers, and 6 lock washers and 3 star washers if you can find them, I couldn't find the star washers so I just use the flat washer inside my frame. That will be enough for 3 bolts on one side. The star washers would help the gripping better if you can find them.

Now the key to this, I used thin fishwire/tape, ya know the thin metal flexible flat wire that electricians or plumbers use to fish things through walls with. It comes all wound on a red metal spool. You will use this to pull your new bolts through the old holes, facing down now. Fish the metal tape/wire through the bottom of the hole and then into your frame. Feed it all the way to one of the large round holes on the side of your frame, about 2-3 feet from your skid bolts, on the side of the frame in the front or the back. It's the biggest round hole on the side of the frame so you can't miss it. A good way to grab the feeder tape, is with a pair of long Hemostats (ya know like doctors use for surgery or hippies use for dope). Once the feeder wire is through that round hole tape the end of your new bolt onto the end of the feeder tape. I used green painters masking tape. It holds real good and it's thin. Wrap this around a few times in both directions so the bolt won't come off when you drag it through the frame, but don't make it too thick so you can't pull it through the hole. You should be able to pull the bolt all the way through the frame and down the hole left by the old bolt and nutsert. Yay! Now you have new bolts going down through your frame and through the old nutsert bolt holes. Oh yeah, you should put a flat washer or a star washer on the head of the bolt before you drag it through there. That will help snag the head of the bolt inside the frame. I couldn't find the star washers so I just use flat ones.
Star washer might help lock the bolt head in easier, however.

Now you can put on another washer, lock washer and first nut and start to tighten the bolt. The lock washer should keep the bolt inside from spinning, but if it still does spin, wrap some tape around the bottom of the bolt so you don't bung up the threads, and grab the bottom of the bolt with some channel locks while you tighten the nut you just put, on until the lock washer grabs it all tight.


Now you can re-install your transfer case lowering kit, pipes or washers, or none if you don't have that. Put your skid on now and add another washer, lock washer, and nut to tighten your skid plate to the frame. I added a third nut against the second one on the bottom to lock it all in place. Basically, the very first nut, washer, and lock washer, act as a capture nut to keep the bolt fastened to the frame, independently of the skid plate and those additional nuts.

If you were to do this to all six bolts, you won't ever have to worry about this again unless those bolts rust and fail, and with the capture nut against the frame, you can loosen the two lower nuts, and drop your skid anytime you want. If it fails again, just cut or push those bolts out and feed new ones in again.

I hope this all makes sense. but it worked great for me. Thanks for the idea Yasmar!! I love simple solutions like this.
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Unread 06-29-2009, 10:50 AM   #153
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOTLFED98 View Post
the generic ones worked fine for me
Just because I'm the nit picky type when it comes to the correct use of fasteners and fastener solutions.

I was digging around on AVK's site looking to order up a 1000 nutserts for our rock rails we're fixing to release and I found this little nugget of info-

There was some discussion early on about the generic fasteners being suitable for Grade 8 or Class 10.9 fasteners. Here is what AVK says

The A-L Series™ Knurled Threaded Insert features a knurled body and large diameter-low profile head making it ideal for use in punched or drilled holes. It offers the highest all around strength characteristics and has been designed to be used with Grade 5 or Metric 8.8/9.8 mating screws. The A-L Insert is AVK’s most versatile performer.

In a nutshell, their strongest nutsert available commercially is only good for Grade 5 and equivalent.
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Unread 06-29-2009, 11:01 AM   #154
Mini-Me26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaybone View Post
Yeah, I think so. Here is my alternative solution that I posted earlier on my 99TJ in the middle of a clutch job when 3 of them where stripped out:

Here is a simple way to fix this problem:

I just got finished dealing with this right in the middle of my clutch job. All 3 of them stripped out on my passanger side. There is a real easy fix to this which worked well for me. I got the basic idea from Yasmar on the Jeepsunlimited.com forum.

Here's what ya can do.

First, if the bolts and nutserts are stripped, get them as loose as you can and saw them off with a good fresh hacksaw blade or sawzall blade. With a sharp blade it goes quickly! I used both. Push the remains of the bolt and top of the busted nutsert up through the hole and out of your way. Yeah, I know they are still in your frame, but if you live in the great white north like I do, there is so much rust and gunk in the frame they won't rattle around. just leave them in there.

Go buy 3-3" 1/2 boltsx13thread bolts, grade 8 if you can get them threaded all the way to the top, or regular bolts if not.
(I needed the 3" length because I have a homemade transfer case drop installed with 1" sections of pipe between my skid and my frame. So your bolts might need to be shorter) Also buy 9-1/2 nuts, 9 washers, and 6 lock washers and 3 star washers if you can find them, I couldn't find the star washers so I just use the flat washer inside my frame. That will be enough for 3 bolts on one side. The star washers would help the gripping better if you can find them.

Now the key to this, I used thin fishwire/tape, ya know the thin metal flexible flat wire that electricians or plumbers use to fish things through walls with. It comes all wound on a red metal spool. You will use this to pull your new bolts through the old holes, facing down now. Fish the metal tape/wire through the bottom of the hole and then into your frame. Feed it all the way to one of the large round holes on the side of your frame, about 2-3 feet from your skid bolts, on the side of the frame in the front or the back. It's the biggest round hole on the side of the frame so you can't miss it. A good way to grab the feeder tape, is with a pair of long Hemostats (ya know like doctors use for surgery or hippies use for dope). Once the feeder wire is through that round hole tape the end of your new bolt onto the end of the feeder tape. I used green painters masking tape. It holds real good and it's thin. Wrap this around a few times in both directions so the bolt won't come off when you drag it through the frame, but don't make it too thick so you can't pull it through the hole. You should be able to pull the bolt all the way through the frame and down the hole left by the old bolt and nutsert. Yay! Now you have new bolts going down through your frame and through the old nutsert bolt holes. Oh yeah, you should put a flat washer or a star washer on the head of the bolt before you drag it through there. That will help snag the head of the bolt inside the frame. I couldn't find the star washers so I just use flat ones.
Star washer might help lock the bolt head in easier, however.

Now you can put on another washer, lock washer and first nut and start to tighten the bolt. The lock washer should keep the bolt inside from spinning, but if it still does spin, wrap some tape around the bottom of the bolt so you don't bung up the threads, and grab the bottom of the bolt with some channel locks while you tighten the nut you just put, on until the lock washer grabs it all tight.


Now you can re-install your transfer case lowering kit, pipes or washers, or none if you don't have that. Put your skid on now and add another washer, lock washer, and nut to tighten your skid plate to the frame. I added a third nut against the second one on the bottom to lock it all in place. Basically, the very first nut, washer, and lock washer, act as a capture nut to keep the bolt fastened to the frame, independently of the skid plate and those additional nuts.

If you were to do this to all six bolts, you won't ever have to worry about this again unless those bolts rust and fail, and with the capture nut against the frame, you can loosen the two lower nuts, and drop your skid anytime you want. If it fails again, just cut or push those bolts out and feed new ones in again.

I hope this all makes sense. but it worked great for me. Thanks for the idea Yasmar!! I love simple solutions like this.
I think I have a project for Wednesday's holiday. Thanks!
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Unread 06-29-2009, 06:08 PM   #155
haulincats
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I need to pull my skid plate on my 98 TJ.
It is all stock, will it hurt anything having
that extra nut spacing between the frame and
the skid plate?
Cause the skid plate is the cross member
that holds the transfer case, trans in the frame?
Thanks,
Vance
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Unread 06-29-2009, 06:22 PM   #156
kaybone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haulincats View Post
I need to pull my skid plate on my 98 TJ.
It is all stock, will it hurt anything having
?
Cause the skid plate is the cross member
that holds the transfer case, trans in the frame?
Thanks,
Vance
If it is just the width of one nut, I think you still might want to use small
that extra nut spacing between the frame and
the skid plate
pieces of pipe to act as a bushing around the nut and spacer between the frame and skid platge. This will in effect give you a very small amount of xfr case lowering, but not any appreciable amount. I think the skid might seat better against the frame than just trying to get it to light flat on the new nuts that are now sticking down from the frame. Or perhaps, on extra flat washer after "that extra nut spacing between the frame" and the skid plate might work too.
the skid plate
Anyway, I think that is what you are asking.
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Unread 06-29-2009, 09:29 PM   #157
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I know for most of the hacks reading this, you're going to ignore it, but for those that care, here's a few things you may not have considered in regards to your more than "creative" ways of dealing with those rusted nutserts.

First and foremost, the belly skid is a very structural part of the frame. That's why the nutserts are so heavy duty with thick flanged heads, that's why the hardware is grade 8 and equivalent, and that's why the factory bolts are countersunk.

If you can think of another application where the bolts and nuts are countersunk, it will give you an idea of why the skid is attached the way it is.

You may also note that between the tank/shock crossmember and the engine motor mounts there is not another cross brace that acts as a skid other than the mounts under the doors. Those mounts try to twist the frame outwards at the top and skid under keeps it from doing so.

Not to mention all the twisting and rotational forces the frame sees when you're offroad and flexing it out.

Personally, I'm much happier knowing I kept the structural integrity intact by doing it a bit less creatively. Just because it's easier, that don't make it more better.
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Unread 07-30-2009, 02:02 PM   #158
RustyzChopShop
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is there a difference between the yj nutserts and the tj's?
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Unread 08-13-2009, 08:51 PM   #159
ekim
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Does anyone have the OEM part number for the inch version of the nutserts?

mrblaine - are you offering these for sale (inch or metric)?
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Unread 08-17-2009, 05:17 PM   #160
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It was pointed out to me that the part number was provided earlier in this thread. I figured I'd repost it in case there are others that read as carefully as I do:

part number 6506629
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Unread 09-10-2009, 04:11 PM   #161
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Our local Jeep dealership can't find a listing for the 1/2-13 '93 YJ Rivnuts. I gave him the #6035739 number and he said it didn't cross to the '93 that it was listed for '97-'06. I am assumming this is the metric version. Anyone have a part number for the 1/2-13 YJ units? I need to replace 2 on my wifes '93 and probably all 6 on my sons '92.
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Unread 09-10-2009, 04:20 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kman1983 View Post
Our local Jeep dealership can't find a listing for the 1/2-13 '93 YJ Rivnuts. I gave him the #6035739 number and he said it didn't cross to the '93 that it was listed for '97-'06. I am assumming this is the metric version. Anyone have a part number for the 1/2-13 YJ units? I need to replace 2 on my wifes '93 and probably all 6 on my sons '92.
Metric version are M12 threads, and used on 03-06 TJ series. 97-02 TJ series use 1/2-13 UNC "Standard" threads.

I have no idea whats in a YJ, hopefully someone will chime in on that.
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Unread 09-13-2009, 11:07 PM   #163
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Just a quick question...

Can I use an impact wrench to "crush" the nutserts? Even if it's turned way down?

Thanks, great thread
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Unread 09-21-2009, 03:26 PM   #164
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I don't know if anyone has tried it? I would be afraid of stripping the new nutsert. 80ftlbs isn't much to a impact wrench.
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Last edited by BDuece; 10-05-2009 at 08:04 AM..
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Unread 09-21-2009, 03:39 PM   #165
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I used an impact to get it started but finished it off with a socket wrench and finally an torque wrench. If the impact is turned way down and you stop when you feel it start to "work" you should not have much torque on it when you switch over to hand tools.
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