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Unread 05-22-2009, 08:15 AM   #136
Unlimited04
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would it work to put a couple little tack welds on the bottom the factory nutsert on the frame? like 2 or 3 equally spaced? would that hold enough to keep it from spinning? or is the nut actually spinning inside the sert?

i gotta drop my skid and trying to figure out how to prevent from getting into a big issue...

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Unread 05-22-2009, 08:24 AM   #137
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
would it work to put a couple little tack welds on the bottom the factory nutsert on the frame? like 2 or 3 equally spaced? would that hold enough to keep it from spinning? or is the nut actually spinning inside the sert?

i gotta drop my skid and trying to figure out how to prevent from getting into a big issue...
A couple of tack welds will work great, it has for me and many others. Still, whenever I do anything with the nutserts, I chase them (gently) with a tap and silicone spray the nutserts and the bolts. The nutsert is one piece, the base and threaded portion. The only way for the threaded portion (what you're calling the "nut") to spin free of the base is if it actually breaks.
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Unread 05-22-2009, 08:25 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
would it work to put a couple little tack welds on the bottom the factory nutsert on the frame? like 2 or 3 equally spaced? would that hold enough to keep it from spinning? or is the nut actually spinning inside the sert?

i gotta drop my skid and trying to figure out how to prevent from getting into a big issue...
Up until around 03, the factory did put a pair of tacks at the flange on the nutsert to the frame. That doesn't stop the spinning for the most part because the real issue is the threaded barrel rusts at the base and then twists off when the threads get rusted to the bolt.

If you do get one that the flange spins on, try some method to tighten the bolt and set the nutsert tighter.
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Unread 05-22-2009, 08:29 AM   #139
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Up until around 03, the factory did put a pair of tacks at the flange on the nutsert to the frame. That doesn't stop the spinning for the most part because the real issue is the threaded barrel rusts at the base and then twists off when the threads get rusted to the bolt.

If you do get one that the flange spins on, try some method to tighten the bolt and set the nutsert tighter.
What's rust?
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Unread 05-22-2009, 08:56 AM   #140
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I've started the PB-Blaster, so **hopefully** they'll come out no problem...but after my rear shock issue, i'm hesitant. my jeep started life in the rust belt of michigan/ohio area. i may have an M12 tap too...good idea. would it be better to remove the bolts with the air impact, or the slow method with a breaker bar?
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Unread 05-22-2009, 09:12 AM   #141
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I've started the PB-Blaster, so **hopefully** they'll come out no problem...but after my rear shock issue, i'm hesitant. my jeep started life in the rust belt of michigan/ohio area. i may have an M12 tap too...good idea. would it be better to remove the bolts with the air impact, or the slow method with a breaker bar?
Apply heat to the heads of the bolts with a propane torch first.

For me, I skipped all precautions and went for the air impact first. Both side came out fine and there was plenty of rust hidden up in there. I have painted over it now.
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Unread 05-22-2009, 10:08 AM   #142
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
I've started the PB-Blaster, so **hopefully** they'll come out no problem...but after my rear shock issue, i'm hesitant. my jeep started life in the rust belt of michigan/ohio area. i may have an M12 tap too...good idea. would it be better to remove the bolts with the air impact, or the slow method with a breaker bar?
What I've done before is to use a large c-clamp from the top of the frame to just next to the bolt head in an attempt to put additional upward pressure on the skid to try to clamp the nutsert head between the skid and the frame.
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Unread 05-28-2009, 09:16 PM   #143
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Just throwing this out there, so forgive my ignorance, but would it be possible to just forget the nutsert technique and use a nut in the frame? Access the nut through a hole in the side of the frame by the mounting holes, the new hole would be just large enough to fit a socket, then ratchet through (or combo wrench, whatever works).
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Unread 05-28-2009, 10:16 PM   #144
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Are these nutserts still available? I have a stripped one.
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Unread 05-29-2009, 05:41 AM   #145
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Originally Posted by Mini-Me26 View Post
Just throwing this out there, so forgive my ignorance, but would it be possible to just forget the nutsert technique and use a nut in the frame? Access the nut through a hole in the side of the frame by the mounting holes, the new hole would be just large enough to fit a socket, then ratchet through (or combo wrench, whatever works).
I don't think I'd want additional holes in the frame. I'm lucky though, now that I have the RE LA skid. The center section is removeable to service the t-case and trans. Hopefully, I'll never have to deal with those nutserts again!
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Unread 05-29-2009, 06:43 AM   #146
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Are these nutserts still available? I have a stripped one.
There are other options but I got mine from the dealer.
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Unread 05-29-2009, 06:57 AM   #147
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This should be a sticky for general info on replacing the rivet nuts. I just dealt with them for the first time on my flares, so I understand what the issues are.
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Unread 05-29-2009, 07:03 AM   #148
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What's rust?

I got your rust right here
I didn't know it was possible to have a vehicle without it!
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Unread 06-03-2009, 07:16 PM   #149
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Originally Posted by w9kh_kevin View Post

I got your rust right here
I didn't know it was possible to have a vehicle without it!
RUST SUCKS

Too bad they cant make a material as strong as steel and affordable (dont think i'd buy a carbon fiber Jeep)
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Unread 06-04-2009, 02:59 PM   #150
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Originally Posted by AngusTJ View Post



RUST SUCKS

Too bad they cant make a material as strong as steel and affordable (dont think i'd buy a carbon fiber Jeep)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/new-gas-tank-skid-plate-can-you-say-aluminum-773797/

Technically it still rusts, but it's a start.
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