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Old 07-27-2009, 02:17 PM   #1
tooofast
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Novak Shifter for the 241OR RockTrac Transfer Case

I see Novak has given up with the stick linkage shifter for the Rubicon transfer cases and gone to a cable design. Has anyone see one or used one of these yet?

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_sk2xr.htm

I can see the advantages as the linkages really no-longer cares about the height of the t-cast in relation to the body so body lifts and tummy tucks should have no effect on shifting.



Another thing that sprung to mind is could i remove the z-gate part of my current shifter. What i saying is without the "stops" as it were, i could just move my handle in the cab unill the correct position on the t-case was found and not worry about the adjustment that i seem to keep having to mess with.

Thanks
Dave

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4" clayton long Arm, with 5 inch rear stretch. 1" BL,35" BFG KM2muds, 1" MML from Brown Dog. Rear Dana 44 Locked with a Detroit also trussed on Alloy Shafts & 4 point triangulation. Rear disc conversion. AtoZ Cage. Rubicon OR241 4:1.. Up front a D30 locked with an ARB, Alloy Shafts and HD steering linkages. Clayton belly up and oil pan skids, Rokman tank skid, PSC Rocker Knockers, ORO Swayloc, Onbard Vita 450 and tank for fills and ARB compressor for the locker. Covered in dents.

Last edited by tooofast; 07-27-2009 at 04:39 PM..
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:28 PM   #2
ElJaynocibuR
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This looks promising! My shifter has kicked out on me several times during the few instances i've needed 4wd. This will definitely be something i will pick up in the near future.

Hopefully someone will chime in with some feedback...
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:17 PM   #3
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I have the cable shifter in my Rubicon. Though I haven't driven it much since I lifted it and installed the cable shifter it seems to be a nice unit. It shifts easily and is easy to adjust.
Yes, you could remove the Z gate feature if you like. In fact, regardless of whether you installed the cable shifter the Z gate can be removed. It is only there as a safety.
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Old 07-27-2009, 04:39 PM   #4
tooofast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweeney View Post
I have the cable shifter in my Rubicon. Though I haven't driven it much since I lifted it and installed the cable shifter it seems to be a nice unit. It shifts easily and is easy to adjust.
Yes, you could remove the Z gate feature if you like. In fact, regardless of whether you installed the cable shifter the Z gate can be removed. It is only there as a safety.
Thats just what i wanted to know on both counts Sweeney.. Thanks!!
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4" clayton long Arm, with 5 inch rear stretch. 1" BL,35" BFG KM2muds, 1" MML from Brown Dog. Rear Dana 44 Locked with a Detroit also trussed on Alloy Shafts & 4 point triangulation. Rear disc conversion. AtoZ Cage. Rubicon OR241 4:1.. Up front a D30 locked with an ARB, Alloy Shafts and HD steering linkages. Clayton belly up and oil pan skids, Rokman tank skid, PSC Rocker Knockers, ORO Swayloc, Onbard Vita 450 and tank for fills and ARB compressor for the locker. Covered in dents.
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:19 PM   #5
crusty1007
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I'm running a cable shifter in the girlfriends rubicon. Has been in there for more than a few months. Although I changed the box to a new style with 2 levers. One for the 241 & the other for the Rubicrawler.
The new box doesn't have a gate in it. I feel the detents just fine. Although I could see if you didn't use the jeep much you may have a tendancy to find nuetral preety quick.

The cable makes the shifting way smoother than with the hard linkage & its unaffected by any body lift, skidplate drop or TT.

Last edited by crusty1007; 07-27-2009 at 07:36 PM..
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Old 07-27-2009, 09:58 PM   #6
OCMerrill
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I also have one installed. As said above works just fine if not better then the stock linkage.
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Old 07-27-2009, 10:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooofast View Post

Another thing that sprung to mind is could i remove the z-gate part of my current shifter. What i saying is without the "stops" as it were, i could just move my handle in the cab unill the correct position on the t-case was found and not worry about the adjustment that i seem to keep having to mess with.

Thanks
Dave
yep, but yer not gonna totally get away without adjusting it..

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Old 07-27-2009, 10:20 PM   #8
BillR
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It looks like a nice system, and Novak makes some good stuff.
I really like the cable shifters on my Atlas. They work smoothly and stay where I put them.
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Old 07-28-2009, 11:46 AM   #9
tooofast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
yep, but yer not gonna totally get away without adjusting it..

What started all this was after my clayton tummy tuck i can get 2H and 4L with no issue but the stop in the Z gate for 4H i guess is off. I'm sick of the Z gate anyway and was looking at the 1st generation shifter Novak made for the 241.. I called them to order it about 2 months ago and they said it was out of production and would have a new one out soon. Last week i saw they had it out but $160 is a fair bit of money for what it is.

That got me thinking that if i can get rid of the z gate then i should be able to have the linkage in the correct spot in the center for the 4H position and not drop the $160. I know it will never be as smooth as the cable and I'm sure sooner or later I'll get one but for now after the long arm kit, belly up and oil pan skid all from clayton last month the toy fund is well empty.

Thanks for the photos, i'l give it a go tonight.

Dave
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4" clayton long Arm, with 5 inch rear stretch. 1" BL,35" BFG KM2muds, 1" MML from Brown Dog. Rear Dana 44 Locked with a Detroit also trussed on Alloy Shafts & 4 point triangulation. Rear disc conversion. AtoZ Cage. Rubicon OR241 4:1.. Up front a D30 locked with an ARB, Alloy Shafts and HD steering linkages. Clayton belly up and oil pan skids, Rokman tank skid, PSC Rocker Knockers, ORO Swayloc, Onbard Vita 450 and tank for fills and ARB compressor for the locker. Covered in dents.
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Old 07-28-2009, 12:13 PM   #10
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If that's the route you want to go the best thing to do is not simply remove the 'z' gate guide, rather cut/file the stop for 4H. If the guide plate is removed the shift lever will spring over to the left.
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:31 AM   #11
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huh, it was about 2 months ago, I ordered and got one within two weeks time,....they didn't say anything of the sort to me..
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HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




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Old 07-30-2009, 10:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
huh, it was about 2 months ago, I ordered and got one within two weeks time,....they didn't say anything of the sort to me..
The old style or the new style?
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4" clayton long Arm, with 5 inch rear stretch. 1" BL,35" BFG KM2muds, 1" MML from Brown Dog. Rear Dana 44 Locked with a Detroit also trussed on Alloy Shafts & 4 point triangulation. Rear disc conversion. AtoZ Cage. Rubicon OR241 4:1.. Up front a D30 locked with an ARB, Alloy Shafts and HD steering linkages. Clayton belly up and oil pan skids, Rokman tank skid, PSC Rocker Knockers, ORO Swayloc, Onbard Vita 450 and tank for fills and ARB compressor for the locker. Covered in dents.
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Old 07-31-2009, 01:21 AM   #13
mudb8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooofast View Post
The old style or the new style?

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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator
In need of work... 11/2/11
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