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Unread 08-13-2010, 04:34 PM   #46
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
I didn't see any errors in Under Armor directions. Oh, wait, that's because there are no directions yet. One of the joys of being an early adopter!
Actually if you go read the thread again, one of the responsibilities you purchased with your discount was to help with the instructions by including text and pictures back to us.

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Unread 08-13-2010, 05:11 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Actually if you go read the thread again, one of the responsibilities you purchased with your discount was to help with the instructions by including text and pictures back to us.
I do recall that and I think you already have gotten some feedback from me. Once complete I'm happy to give a full recap. Pictures I may be a little delinquent in, but can try to make that up.
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Unread 08-13-2010, 09:21 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
Can you tell from this if the body bracket it backwards on mine?
Yes, your body bracket looks like it's on backwards, or you could say the cable is going through it in the wrong direction.
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Unread 08-13-2010, 09:25 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Border Dave View Post
Yes, your body bracket looks like it's on backwards, or you could say the cable is going through it in the wrong direction.
Thanks, as soon as I can remove my crap-tastic RE Belly pan, I'll get started...
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Unread 08-14-2010, 10:08 AM   #50
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My shifter is on and seems to be working fine. Well, the first couple shifts on the test drive where a bit rough but then it became nice and smooth. Felt like the cable maybe had an odd bend or slightest kink that it had to work out by shifting through the gears a couple times. 2H to 4H to N is good although probably only a little smoother than with my Tera adapter. But N to 4L seems a lot easier than with my Tera adapter. I don't think the Tera adapter would fit though with Under Armor so had to make some change. This seems like a good one. Hesistate to even try to remember what stock was like to compare.
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Unread 08-14-2010, 03:34 PM   #51
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very happy with mine, no regrets. and any questions i had savvy would answer the best they could. i'm not just swinging from savvys nuts, but am happy with all my purchases from them. I am also happy with undercover fab's tummy tuck as I just couldn't wait for savvy's underarmor for a 98 tj auto.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 06:02 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
Thanks, as soon as I can remove my crap-tastic RE Belly pan, I'll get started...
What size are your flat heads bolts for the pan? I have plenty of them so we can replace your welded or buggered ones. Let me know what size you need.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 08:16 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Savvy View Post
What size are your flat heads bolts for the pan? I have plenty of them so we can replace your welded or buggered ones. Let me know what size you need.
I bought of whole box of the "Stainless" Fastenal ones cause I assumed I'd screw a couple of these up. I guess they are not really "hardened", and realy don't seem to be rated Grade "x"...

1/2"-13 x 1" 18-8 Stainless Steel Flat Socket Cap Screw

1/2"-13 x 1" 18-8 Stainless Steel Flat Socket Cap Screw | Fastenal

I think I just need to pull on the big boy pants and get a cheap welder for doing small jobs like this. It seems that anyone in my club that has one is either too busy to help or has a busted welding setup, or out of gas.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 10:59 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
I bought of whole box of the "Stainless" Fastenal ones cause I assumed I'd screw a couple of these up. I guess they are not really "hardened", and realy don't seem to be rated Grade "x"...

1/2"-13 x 1" 18-8 Stainless Steel Flat Socket Cap Screw

1/2"-13 x 1" 18-8 Stainless Steel Flat Socket Cap Screw | Fastenal

I think I just need to pull on the big boy pants and get a cheap welder for doing small jobs like this. It seems that anyone in my club that has one is either too busy to help or has a busted welding setup, or out of gas.
Wade, we have the hardened zinc plated 1/2-13 flat head socket cap screws for the frame side skidplate nutserts. I would use those before I used stainless there.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 11:22 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Wade, we have the hardened zinc plated 1/2-13 flat head socket cap screws for the frame side skidplate nutserts. I would use those before I used stainless there.
Great, I'll bug Gerald for another bolt "care-package".... I'd like to replace all of the suckers with better bolts if it will reduce the chance of them stripping so easy... I even used Anti-seize and didn't use my gorilla muscles to tighten them down.
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Unread 08-17-2010, 04:20 PM   #56
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it took me approximately 2.5hrs to install my cable shifter. Not too bad considering I did it without power tools, without help, without directions, and I had to remove my Savvy Under Armor crossmember so I could get the top shifter bracket nut off the trans...

I think it's all adjusted correctly. It feels like it, but I can't road test it, because I'm currently waiting on my new rear DS from Tom Wood. Should be here in a day or two...

Here are some pics, incase anyone's interested.

Oh, and Blaine, I'll take some more pics of the crossmember install as I go about putting it back in for the 3rd time (but first, I'm gonna clean up some of the rust my old trans skid caused on my frame). Man, I feel like an expert at this, now!

The first pics are of the old linkage as I removed it. I'm sure you can find a good write up on that, but I used a flat head screwdriver to pop the linkage apart, and a 9/16" wrench and socket to get the trans mounted linkage bracket, and t-case shifter lever (on the t-case) off. Other tools I used were 10mm wrench, 1/2" wrench and crescent wrench for adjusting the various nuts on the Novak cable, and a 3/16" allen wrench for the Novak body bracket bolts.
0817001406.jpg   0817001408a.jpg   0817001409.jpg   0817001520.jpg   0817001526a.jpg  

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Last edited by robert_hollis; 08-17-2010 at 04:34 PM..
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Unread 08-17-2010, 04:24 PM   #57
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I suggest mounting the Novak brackets, then running the cable through them.... I also had to adjust the brack for the line coming out of my transmission. People with 5 speeds or autos may not have that issue, I dunno.
0817001538.jpg   0817001538a.jpg   0817001538b.jpg   0817001614.jpg   0817001614a.jpg  

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Unread 08-17-2010, 04:27 PM   #58
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Oh, and 2 more things... My cable came with one of the brackets mounted backwards, so please go by the pictures I have, and not necessarily by the way your Novak cable arrives. And the other is these pics were all taken with a cellphone, so you're lucky any came out at all.
0817001631.jpg   0817001632.jpg   0817001632a.jpg   0817001637.jpg   0817001637a.jpg  

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Unread 08-17-2010, 04:51 PM   #59
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So the TC side bracket actually points down away from the tub? That would be nice. I have the AA bracket and mine still touches every once in a while even though I have modified it.
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Unread 08-17-2010, 05:45 PM   #60
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The body mounted bracket points up and forward, and the trans mounted bracket points down and forward. Sorry, I didn't realize how big those pics were...
edita.jpg   editb.jpg  
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