Just like it states... I bought an inverted T steering from Rusty's offroad last year about 2 weeks before the TDS event here in SoCal. I needed something quick to get me up and running for the event. I had been working on the Jeep doing coilovers all around, mid arms and triangulated rear CAs. I have 14" of travel and the stock steering would not work simply because of the TREs binding with the increased travel. I decided on the inverted T cause I can go OTK which raised the steering offsetting the effects of the increased amount of down travel. Also, ( I was ignorant of the setup ) I could mount the drag link to tie rod TRE to the front of the tie rod getting rid of any bind.
So, I set up the T steering as I stated with the draglink TRE on the front and then mounted the track bar parallel to the drag link. Well, with the tie rod in this position... my front tires were toed out slightly which will result in the Jeep wondering all over the road. ( not acceptable ) One full revolution of the tie rod yielded a severely toed in which was more unacceptable. I popped out one TRE and gave it one rev resulting in a slightly toed out setup so I then rotated the tie rod until I had the correct toe in. Now, my drag link and track bar were no longer parallel. Hello bump steer. Also, since the TRE was still to the front of the tie rod, ( actually about 45 deg. ) I had the "dead spot" however, I could not rotate the TRE to the top of the tie rod or else I would have binding and too much toe in.
Sorry for the book there but I wanted everyone to know how the inverted T sucks. It's not designed to work for the street cause of the adjustments, but it's not strong enough for a trail rig as it's simply made of tubing. As soon as you dent the tube... no more strength and it will bend up easily.
So, now I am converting to the WJ steering setup. I'm about 3/4ths done and will show the finished product but here's some pics of the in process...
In the first pic... the drag link and track bar are equal length and parallel. The drag link is set by the knuckle ( cannot move location ) and bending the pitman arm upward so the TRE does not contact the tie rod at full stuff shown in pic #4, but does not hit the radiator either. ( not pictured ) So, drag link cannot move from where it is... I wanted to have the track bar ultimately hidden behind the drag link but could not get it that high, in Pic #3, it shows why.( pulley contact ) so , now, track bar is set and really cannot be adjusted to any better location.
Pic #1 is at ride height... Pic #2 - #5 are stuffed both sides... Pic#6 is stuffed pass side and fully extended drivers... steering full lock right. Yields the highest amount of frame contact but it has been removed.
Anyway, I now have to finish up the frame notch, fully weld and paint. I need to brace the track bar mount to the axle... then put it all back together.
I'm guessing I'll have better steering strength and response than the junk inv. T setup.