No MIL (Check Engine Light) = FAILED inspection?! - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 28 Old 07-26-2012, 10:42 AM
silver97tj
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Hi all
Cant be that hard to change out an led, find someone , friends or family that has skills. You are going to replace the unit any way, might save your self @$800 you stated. Besides a unit out of a salvage yard might be way cheaper......................P


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post #17 of 28 Old 07-26-2012, 10:57 AM
kloppk
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Just for grins try running the Cluster Slef Test to see if the MIL light operates.

(1) Begin the test with the ignition switch in the
Off position.
(2) Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
(3) While still holding the odometer/trip odometer
switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to
the On position, but do not start the engine.
(4) Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
(5) The instrument cluster will automatically
begin the actuator test sequence, as follows:
(a) The cluster will generate a single chime tone
to confirm the functionality of the chime tone generator
and the chime control circuitry.
(b) The cluster will scroll the number “8” across
the odometer/trip odometer VFD to confirm the
functionality of all VFD segments and their control
circuitry.
(c) The cluster will illuminate the decimal point
in the odometer/trip odometer VFD to confirm the
functionality of this VFD segment and its control
circuitry.
(d) The cluster will display the EMIC software
level in the odometer/trip odometer VFD (example:
“SOF 8.9”).
(e) The cluster will display the last six digits
(sequence number) of the Vehicle Identification
Number (VIN) in the odometer/trip odometer VFD.
(f) If any faults have been set by the cluster, the
cluster will display the fault information in the
odometer/trip odometer VFD INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER FAILURE MESSAGE . If no faults have
been set, the cluster will scroll “no FAULtS” across
the odometer/trip odometer VFD.
(g) The cluster will turn on, then off again each
of the following indicators, one at a time, in
sequence to confirm the functionality of the indicator
and the cluster control circuitry:
˛
High Beam

˛
Brake

˛
Seatbelt

˛
MIL

˛
Check Gauges

˛
Low Fuel

˛
4WD

˛
SKIS

˛
Cruise

˛
Upshift
(h) The cluster will sweep the needles for each of
the following gauges, one at a time, to several calibration
points in sequence to confirm the functionality
of the gauge and the cluster control circuitry:

˛
Speedometer

˛
Fuel

˛
Temperature

˛
Tachometer

˛
Voltage

˛ Oil Pressure

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post #18 of 28 Old 07-26-2012, 11:38 AM
spyder6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfourpointo View Post
Looks like the new panel runs about $800. That is one expensive light bulb.
$604 new. i bet he could find a junkyard one for 100 bucks

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post #19 of 28 Old 07-26-2012, 11:42 AM
TheRealKTrain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kloppk View Post
Just for grins try running the Cluster Slef Test to see if the MIL light operates.

(1) Begin the test with the ignition switch in the
Off position.
(2) Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
(3) While still holding the odometer/trip odometer
switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to
the On position, but do not start the engine.
(4) Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
(5) The instrument cluster will automatically
begin the actuator test sequence, as follows:
(a) The cluster will generate a single chime tone
to confirm the functionality of the chime tone generator
and the chime control circuitry.
(b) The cluster will scroll the number “8” across
the odometer/trip odometer VFD to confirm the
functionality of all VFD segments and their control
circuitry.
(c) The cluster will illuminate the decimal point
in the odometer/trip odometer VFD to confirm the
functionality of this VFD segment and its control
circuitry.
(d) The cluster will display the EMIC software
level in the odometer/trip odometer VFD (example:
“SOF 8.9”).
(e) The cluster will display the last six digits
(sequence number) of the Vehicle Identification
Number (VIN) in the odometer/trip odometer VFD.
(f) If any faults have been set by the cluster, the
cluster will display the fault information in the
odometer/trip odometer VFD INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER FAILURE MESSAGE . If no faults have
been set, the cluster will scroll “no FAULtS” across
the odometer/trip odometer VFD.
(g) The cluster will turn on, then off again each
of the following indicators, one at a time, in
sequence to confirm the functionality of the indicator
and the cluster control circuitry:
˛
High Beam

˛
Brake

˛
Seatbelt

˛
MIL

˛
Check Gauges

˛
Low Fuel

˛
4WD

˛
SKIS

˛
Cruise

˛
Upshift
(h) The cluster will sweep the needles for each of
the following gauges, one at a time, to several calibration
points in sequence to confirm the functionality
of the gauge and the cluster control circuitry:

˛
Speedometer

˛
Fuel

˛
Temperature

˛
Tachometer

˛
Voltage

˛ Oil Pressure
Did you try this yet? Results?

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." Aristotle

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post #20 of 28 Old 07-26-2012, 12:06 PM
LJameson
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Maybe pull the cluster out and see if there's a bulb that you can replace that's behind the Mil.

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post #21 of 28 Old 07-26-2012, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
mrfourpointo
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Dallas
Posts: 48
Yes, I have tried this. This process and my results are in the thread linked in my original post. The MIL did not come on at all during this test, although all other lights worked properly.
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post #22 of 28 Old 07-26-2012, 12:12 PM
TheRealKTrain
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,687
bah, Im sorry. I took the lazy way out. Call any junkyards yet? (Or better yet, find an unlocked Jeep in the mall parking lot)

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." Aristotle

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post #23 of 28 Old 07-26-2012, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
mrfourpointo
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Location: Dallas
Posts: 48
I think I will remove the panel again tonight and dig-in down to the circuit board. I'll post my findings.
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post #24 of 28 Old 07-26-2012, 12:46 PM
Terdar
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Location: Tampa
Posts: 190
This one should work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-JEEP-WRAN...sories&vxp=mtr


Changing the cluster out will display whatever mileage is stored in the cluster, not what your jeep has, btw.
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post #25 of 28 Old 07-26-2012, 12:51 PM
spyder6
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in 03+ its stored in both the ECM and the cluster

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post #26 of 28 Old 07-26-2012, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
mrfourpointo
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Victory is mine.

On a related matter, I hope my Jeep's previous owner enjoys a special kind of hell reserved for idiots of the highest order.

As stated above, I decided to go ahead and remove my instrument panel, again, and completely take it apart. I removed the back cover and quickly found that nothing here seemed to be able to address my problem:



I then flipped over the panel and held a flashlight near the black surface to find the MIL. Oddly enough, the outline of the light was much darker than the others - this gave me pause. I then started trying to shine the light under the black surface of the panel to see if the light would shine through the back side of where the MIL is supposed to be - nothing. The light was clearly coming out of the "Check Gauges" indicator, but not the MIL right next to it. Upon closer inspection, just below the surface of the instrument panel's face, something was amiss:







Ever so slightly glued (only on the edge) I found this piece of black plastic wedged behind the face of the instrument panel. It appears to be a simple rectangle cut out of a black, plastic or vinyl folder. Some @#$!%$@^&%&! had stuck it back there because he was tired of looking at his check engine light. And now?

Here it is with the key in the "On" position:




An here it is with the engine running:




Thanks for all of your posts in trying to help me figure this out! I guess we at least figured out a real cheap way to turn off your MIL.
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post #27 of 28 Old 09-29-2013, 08:00 AM
OzzLee
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Posts: 45
I know this thread is a year old, but I just ran into pretty much the same problem. My garage also would not pass my jeep for the MIL. Except when I took my cluster apart, i found the LED had been ripped from the board. If anyone else runs into this, a $2 Radio Shack LED and someone with soldering skills is all you need. No reason to replace the entire cluster.

To get to the LED you have to take those 24 screws out, they hold the servo motors that control the needles on your gauges. The main circuit board will pop right out after that. Looking at where the LED should be, the board is marked with the letter "K" on the top and left side and the letter "A" in the bottom right corner. "K" is negative and "A" is positive. ( fun fact "K" is used to mark relays on circuit boards) I bought a $2 surface mount LED that was rated for 2-2.4 volts. (took a shot in the dark) It has an intensity of 29 mcd and is almost as bright as the factory lights. My cousin who is much better at soldering than I am soldered it on and I will be back to the garage as soon as I can.

As the OP said...I hope my jeep's previous owner enjoys a special place in hell reserved for child molesters and people who talk at the theater.
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post #28 of 28 Old 06-23-2015, 09:08 AM
simmons_tm
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Location: Madison
Posts: 2
Sigh - I just found a piece of electrical tape forced under the panel that was blocking my LED as well. At least whoever did this to my Jeep didn't rip the LED off the board. It was driving me crazy that the LED was "DARK", now I know why.
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