first, it is a 99 tj and it sat all winter while I put in a sport cage and seats and put a 4" lift under it.
go to take it for a drive yesterday and it starts up but no gauges, now I have had the gauge pod problem before and I fixed the plugs and it hasnt been a problem since and that was 2 years ago, and it was all gauges not just speedo and tack. no interior lights and no radio.
all the fuses are good expt #17 in the pdc under the hood. it keeps popping the fuse. I unhooked the radio, the interior light on sound bar and under dash on driver side.
#17 fuse is for odbII, radio, interior lights and a couple other things but I am having trouble tracing the pink/wht wire from block to problem.
I need to know if anyone has any ideas on how to fix this or how to go about searching out the problem.
On a 99 the fuse that supplies constant 12V to radio, cluster, OBDII connector, and interior lamps is fuse 20 (10A). Fuse 17 supplies those items on 97-98 models. Maybe your Jeep is one of those funny crossover models?
Best idea I have is to unplug the fuse and everything that the fuse supplies (including pulling the cluster), and test for a short to ground using a meter to save blowing more fuses. If there is a short with everything unplugged you must have short to ground from a worn wire. Might be pinched somewhere under the PDC other wise you'll have to look for any signs of chafing. Wiring is pretty well protected so I can't think where's best to look. Maybe behind the radio?
If there is no sign of a short to ground with all disconnected, plug every thing back in and test for a short one at a time till you find the faulty component.
thank you very much for your response. yes my 99 is one of those piece togethers on the assembly line. 99 engine, 2000 brakes, and fuse 17 is my IOD fuse and that is why it is hard to diagnose.
I have it narrowed to the green plug and blue plug in the connection box on driver side underdash mounted to tub. I used a continuity tester and began unplugging items till the tester didnt light.then began plugging in one at a time until it came back. I have radio out, dash pod out, all interior lights unhooked and underhood light removed (I actually ripped it off in anger, this has been frustrating).
with green out no cont. with blue out no cont. so it is one or the other and I dont know which plug is first in the sequence or exactly what each controls. but I do know the blue plug has the key sensor on it because when I start it with blue plug out it runs for about 3 seconds and shuts off, with the green out it runs fine.
does anyone know what all is on each of these plugs so I can narrow down my search some more?
Well this is quite strange. A 99 TJ with 2000 brakes but fuse 17 is the IOD fuse? As fuse 17 is the supply fuse I'll be using the 98 wiring for reference.
From the fuse the wiring goes to the under hood lamp and the blue connector.
From the blue connector the wire goes to the green connector and the hard top or sound bar dome lamp if either is fitted.
From the green connector the wire supplies the power to behind the dash. The things connected behind the dash are radio, right and left courtesy lamps, instrument cluster and the OBDII port. If the wire shows it is grounded with the green connector and the radio, cluster and courtesy lamps disconnected the wire must be shorted behind the dash somewhere.
first, thank you jonny for your interest in helping me with this.
second, I FOUND IT !
here is the problem, I disconnected everything( radio, soundbar, interior lights, guage pod) I removed every bulb and unplugged everything that had a wire color that came from the blue or green plug. and I still had a continuity light on #17.
got pissed last night and thought about it all day at work. got home and was going through some stuff on my tool box looking for something else and I found my cobra all in handset cb. and then it dawned on me that behind all the crud under the dash on the passenger side there is my mount for the cb where you plug in the antenna and the cord for the handset. and it is tied into the aux power. just above where I mounted it there is a hole where the water must have come in and ran down the wire into my cb mount. since I dont have the unit plugged in all the time I forgot about it.
once I unplugged it the continuity light went out. apparently it fried and melted to the fire wall causing my headache.
thank you again jonny for your help and you did help. I am now more informed about where every single wire and plug that wasnt the problem is in my jeep and how to get to it and test it.
Im reposting in this because I'm in the same situation you are in with the dome/radio lights not working. Johnny don't know if your still out there but if you are I could use some help on what I effed up on.. Its a 2000 6cyl TJ auto. everything was working fine for years... UNTIL I tried to wire into my alarm system to when the door opens when alarm is set, the siren goes off. All I did was tap into one of the wires coming from the dome light and everything went out. now fuses blow left and right... any idea? I read through whats listed above. its 1am now and iv been frustrated working with it all night. Thanks again
Still here. First thing I'd do is remove the wire you tapped from the alarm to the dome lamp circuit and see if you still have a short on the dome lamp circuit. I'd also check the wire from the alarm to make sure the wire used was the correct one.
If you still have a short with the wire disconnected check the dome lamp wiring near where you spliced in, maybe the wire got tugged and cut through on something. Might be worth posting the alarm instructions or a link to them if available for a look at. I'm off to work very soon but will check back this evening UK time.
I checked on both sides of the splices connection. I have removed all units off the alarm to make sure no power from it is causing the draw. I'll try and post tomorrow the make and model of the alarm. It's 3:53am FL time.
Green connector on the driver under dash unit is what I see the pink/white wire from radio coming from. Am I correct?
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The pink/white wire is the constant 12V and won't change when the doors are opened. It does indeed go from the green connector (pin 7) to the radio.
The yellow wire is the ground side of the dome lamps and will switch from being at 12V to ground when the doors are opened or dome lamps turned on, and I think would normally be used for triggering alarms.
that is exactly what I was thinking too on the trigger except when i did splice into it things went crazo. worked on it all night last night through the morning before todays Jeep event. I believe I found the source.... when I pulled on the dome lamp wiring to peel back the electrical tape I must have pulled too hard and i puled both wire pins out of the dore trigger. this was leaning up against the tub of the Jeep and I believe it was constantly arking it out!!!!!!! from 9pm-about 6am I was able to come to this conclusion. BUT! yes the gages now work as well as radio and dome lights (the whole trigger idea did not work for my setup on alarm system Viper 160XV) now my AC has stopped working!!!!!! I drove about 100 yards leaving the complex to the Event and it quit on me. Fuse in glove box is good. Relay in egn compartment is good. blower motor resistor is good, blower motor relay is good. clutch still cycles (I believe) I need to double check that. the only other thing i can think of is i fried the blower motor? or in that same wiring set up is there hvac connected where i could have set something loose?
All this is interesting. I have all the problems listed. No radio, no courtesy lights, OBD2 port is dead, no gauges. However.....NO BLOWN FUSES!!! All the fuses test OK with the meter. There is no short from the red wire to the courtesy light to ground. Yet, nothing works. I added light in the speaker bar, and the light in the new hard top I put on. The lights worked for 10 seconds and then faded out.
When I test fuse 17, which is supposed to power the courtesy light, there is no power to either side of the fuse. I would think that one should have 12v constant even with the key off.
This image is of the 97 PDC but it's essentially the same although some fuse ratings may be different. The side of fuse 17 which is connected to the other small fuses by a zig-zag line is the side that should have a constant 12V. Check for voltage between that side of the fuse and the other fuse terminals linked together by the line and also fuse positions 2-8 linked to the positive. If you show voltage between the other constant 12V fuse terminals there is a high resistance (probably caused by corrosion) or break within the PDC. If you have a bad connection to fuse 17, fuses 19 (A/C compressor) and fuse 20 (Horn) may be dead too.
Many thanks in advance!
I have a small square fuse block behind the glove box that I have been looking at. It looks nothing like your post. It does control some things. When I originally started working on this project I did pull the door switch override fuse and the bulb went out.
On my block, fuse 17 is in the upper left corner. Fuse 20 is at the bottom left corner and says it would be used tfor the automatic transmission.
I do not have a/c (not installed) but my horn, turn signals, headlights, up shift light, (like anyone needs that) heater fan, vent doors, all work. It runs and drives just fine.