[mcg311TJ]

It would work well in the mud pits down here in FL.

[turtlerace]

Originally Posted by mcg311TJ

It would work well in the mud pits down here in FL.

Not when you over-revved.

[JoshG]

Originally Posted by MitchintheTrail

i still would not know why you would want to spray any engine. the benifits in this matter dont out weigh the risks imho

because it is cheap. I ran an edelbrock nitrous kit on my 78 Malibu for a lot of passes, no problems. Like everything else it is all about doing your research. If you set everything up properly it is not that risky.

Have I ever considered putting a kit on the Jeep? No. I have yet to be in a situation where I instantly needed that much more power for a small amount of time. Oh yeah and the Malibu had all forged internals and a cam with the exhaust opened a bit extra for the nitrous, the Jeep does not..

edit, just reread, I completely agree with the last part, the benifits in this matter dont out weigh the risk... I agree 100%.

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by JoshG

because it is cheap. I ran an edelbrock nitrous kit on my 78 Malibu for a lot of passes, no problems. Like everything else it is all about doing your research. If you set everything up properly it is not that risky.

Have I ever considered putting a kit on the Jeep? No. I have yet to be in a situation where I instantly needed that much more power for a small amount of time. Oh yeah and the Malibu had all forged internals and a cam with the exhaust opened a bit extra for the nitrous, the Jeep does not..

edit, just reread, I completely agree with the last part, the benifits in this matter dont out weigh the risk... I agree 100%.

Oh I don't know that I agree that the risk outweighs the benefits. I know of lots of situations where another 50 hp would be nice in an instant and I also know of several folks that have done it with no ill effects.

If I played in the sand more, I'd certainly have a well set up Nitrous system spraying a wet 50 shot.

[van1]

Smoking joe
-run a "window switch" which opens only at set RPM level.
-run another switch below the pedal which is beside your "on-off" switch to turn on only when you mash the pedal.
-This is just nice, use a switched bottle valve(so you can open/close the bottle with a switch near your dash)

Haven't really researched any kits for the jeep but a wet kit would be best because it adds extra fuel in with the NOS.

Don't go over 125HP keep it "safer" using under 100HP shot. 50HP sounds great.

...and let me know if you do this.

[jgorm]

Originally Posted by van1

Smoking joe
-run a "window switch" which opens only at set RPM level.
-run another switch below the pedal which is beside your "on-off" switch to turn on only when you mash the pedal.
-This is just nice, use a switched bottle valve(so you can open/close the bottle with a switch near your dash)

Yup. To run nitrous safely you need a window switch (rpm range), WOT switch, and a wideband to make sure the AFR is correct (if not you can rejet). I would think a 75 shot would be fine on the stock tune as long as you run 91+ octane. A bottle heater would not be a bad idea either. Does anybody know if the intake manifold is the same design that they used with carbs? Sometimes there are issues with homogeneous distributions when flowing fuel on an intake designed for air.
Check this out! Not running a window switch and low rpm nitrous activation is the quickest way to blow a hole in your intake.
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[NotURMailman]

Originally Posted by van1

Smoking joe
-run a "window switch" which opens only at set RPM level.
-run another switch below the pedal which is beside your "on-off" switch to turn on only when you mash the pedal.
-This is just nice, use a switched bottle valve(so you can open/close the bottle with a switch near your dash)

Haven't really researched any kits for the jeep but a wet kit would be best because it adds extra fuel in with the NOS.

Don't go over 125HP keep it "safer" using under 100HP shot. 50HP sounds great.

...and let me know if you do this.

I'm doubting you'll get a response from the OP, seeing as how he started this thread in 2001..

[Mitchin]

I would love to see someone do this. Just once atleast ya know.

[RVA_TJ06]

I live my life a quarter mile at a time. hah.. sorry.

[BoarderX47]

Originally Posted by MitchintheTrail

Holy batman and robin time for a thread resurrection!!! anybody do this yet =) haha

Why would you even bother bringing this back, it is 8 years old.

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by jgorm

Yup. To run nitrous safely you need a window switch (rpm range), WOT switch, and a wideband to make sure the AFR is correct (if not you can rejet). I would think a 75 shot would be fine on the stock tune as long as you run 91+ octane. A bottle heater would not be a bad idea either. Does anybody know if the intake manifold is the same design that they used with carbs? Sometimes there are issues with homogeneous distributions when flowing fuel on an intake designed for air.
Check this out! Not running a window switch and low rpm nitrous activation is the quickest way to blow a hole in your intake.

the intake manifold is a different design than the old carb'ed version. but no worries, you could actually put a throttle body spacer to good use by drilling and tapping the sides for the fuel and nitrous jet sizes you want. run a seperate fuel pump with your switches and you're golden. would still need the wideband O2 sensor, and might be a good idea to dyno tune with a piggyback to ensure a happy A/F ratio and prevent engine destruction, but you could probably get close with a FMU.

[jgorm]

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

the intake manifold is a different design than the old carb'ed version. but no worries, you could actually put a throttle body spacer to good use by drilling and tapping the sides for the fuel and nitrous jet sizes you want. run a seperate fuel pump with your switches and you're golden. would still need the wideband O2 sensor, and might be a good idea to dyno tune with a piggyback to ensure a happy A/F ratio and prevent engine destruction, but you could probably get close with a FMU.

The problem is that many air intakes are designed with longer runners and sometimes have places where fuel can pool. Sharp bends are also more common and can cause fuel to drop out of the air stream. You shouldn't need a fmu if you run a wet shot, only for a dry shot, and even then with no boost it would be tricky to setup properly. You may need a bigger fuel pump.

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by jgorm

The problem is that many air intakes are designed with longer runners and sometimes have places where fuel can pool. Sharp bends are also more common and can cause fuel to drop out of the air stream. You shouldn't need a fmu if you run a wet shot, only for a dry shot, and even then with no boost it would be tricky to setup properly. You may need a bigger fuel pump.

yea, the older 91-99 (??) intake manifolds were long runner styles. the 00-06+ 4.0L's are more of an open single-ish plane manifold, which makes more power, hence Jeep changed the design I haven't stuck a scope in one, but it looks like a much better design for nitrous vs the older style. I'd still want a piggyback or something to verify A/F ratio, and allow the computer to compensate should the extra fuel pump become an issue.

[Deezelweazel]

How to install and use Nitrous Oxide, written by Joe Pettitt, Car Tech Books, Part no: SA50 ISBN: 1-884089-22-4
Maybe a kind of old fashioned book. But the mechanical rules are still valid.
Read and then decide by yourself and be on the safe side.

Any discussion is worthless without details and knowledge.

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

yea, the older 91-99 (??) intake manifolds were long runner styles. the 00-06+ 4.0L's are more of an open single-ish plane manifold, which makes more power, hence Jeep changed the design I haven't stuck a scope in one, but it looks like a much better design for nitrous vs the older style. I'd still want a piggyback or something to verify A/F ratio, and allow the computer to compensate should the extra fuel pump become an issue.

The fuel pump is typically a non issue on wet injections with fuel injected motors. 2 things, the fuel jet is much smaller than the Nitrous jet and the fuel is typically tapped into at the fuel rail which has more than ample flow for the small amount of fuel needed.