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07-08-2010, 10:54 AM
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#46
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RowJ
Was willing to do that. Was going to do that, until I read this description of how to do the 'Combustion test Kit' test on the NAPA webite.......
....The vehicle should be started and at operating temperature before performing the test. Vehicles with head gasket leaks may overheat, and purge hot water and steam out of the radiator.....
Given my expansion and overheating problem, what good is that?
No way I'm removing the cap when it's overly hot! Am I missing something?
Anyone ever actually used one of these?
RJ
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Does it bubble and over flow when running? Or just when you stop?
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07-08-2010, 11:38 AM
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#47
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Texas/OK Border
Posts: 1,659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dryseals
Does it bubble and over flow when running? Or just when you stop?
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Yes, after warmed up and driven for 10 miles, We pulled over and checked it while ideling. Very hot...bubbling.... and overflow bottle was full. It I had the bottle at the "Full" line when cold (instead of the "Add" line") it would be shooting out of the air vent on top. From the add line it ends up 95% full.
RJ
__________________
98 TJ w/ 4.0L, 5 speed, 4" lift, 1.25" BL, 4.56 gears, Lockers, T.T., 33" Cooper STT's.
2002 Dodge Diesel 2500, Ext Cab/Long Bed, 602 HP/1244 Ft-Lbs
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07-09-2010, 05:33 PM
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#48
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RowJ
Yes, after warmed up and driven for 10 miles, We pulled over and checked it while ideling. Very hot...bubbling.... and overflow bottle was full. It I had the bottle at the "Full" line when cold (instead of the "Add" line") it would be shooting out of the air vent on top. From the add line it ends up 95% full.
RJ
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Now I say head gasket.
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07-09-2010, 06:19 PM
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#49
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Disgruntled Jeepforum'er
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: NY/NJ/PA Tri-State Middletown NY 10941, New York
Posts: 3,186
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I had the same issue, replaced a bunch of stuff and found out that the cap was not sealing right.
Also when filling the coolant before i finish i like to rev the engine so the coolant level drops some them put the cap on. Seems to push a bit more air out.
__________________
-Ryan
Google Voice (or the number Grape calls when drunk): 845-476-8182
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Enzo Ferrari
"The Jeep is Americas only real sports car!"
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by MrBlaine
"Jeeps do not make jeepers, jeepers make Jeeps."
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07-10-2010, 02:06 PM
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#50
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 126
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How is it a cooling system still have pressure after it has sat over night? The radiator cap to the overflow would allow the release of pressure yes???? I have never had a vehicle that would hold pressure when the radiator cap was removed and it was bone cold. That part makes no sense to me....if im wrong please tell me.... unless its such a slight pressure and the cap isnt allowing it to bleed pressure off to the overflow container. Im suspecting a radiator cap being the issue here...my .02 cents.
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07-10-2010, 06:35 PM
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#51
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Maine
Posts: 462
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I always thought the radiator cap was why my radiator blew up. The head gasket going was the the source.
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07-10-2010, 07:19 PM
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#52
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Texas/OK Border
Posts: 1,659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dryseals
Now I say head gasket.
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Agree. Tried the original factory cap that was rust coated but had worked well for over 100,000 miles. No difference.
I'm convinced it's either gasket or a small crack in head that only opens up under load. Either way it's definately exhaust gas leaking into coolant!
RJ
__________________
98 TJ w/ 4.0L, 5 speed, 4" lift, 1.25" BL, 4.56 gears, Lockers, T.T., 33" Cooper STT's.
2002 Dodge Diesel 2500, Ext Cab/Long Bed, 602 HP/1244 Ft-Lbs
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07-18-2010, 03:54 PM
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#53
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Texas/OK Border
Posts: 1,659
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Pulled head yesterday. On head gasket - only one VERY small spot between #1 and #2 where fire ring was 'bulged' off the gasket material and could have allowed combustion gas into the coolant? Doubtful enough that I'm having the head fluxed to be sure no cracks.
Other problem - must have gotten too hot before I caught the problem (when lower radiator hose blew). Melted small section of top lip of #1 and #2 piston. Minor scoring on cyl. walls. While the head is off, will drop pan and replace rod bearings, pistons and rings!
Question - Any trick to getting the bottom exhaust manifold bolts tightened. They were only finger tight when we removed the manifold and I can see why. Can't get to some of them with anything but a short open ended wrench from underneath!
RJ
__________________
98 TJ w/ 4.0L, 5 speed, 4" lift, 1.25" BL, 4.56 gears, Lockers, T.T., 33" Cooper STT's.
2002 Dodge Diesel 2500, Ext Cab/Long Bed, 602 HP/1244 Ft-Lbs
Last edited by RowJ; 07-20-2010 at 06:38 PM..
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07-18-2010, 07:04 PM
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#54
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 100
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I assure you they were tight at one time. They do tend to loosen with expansion and contraction. I did a header install and the bottom manifold bolts were reached with a gearwrench. Some from above and some from beneath. At one point I put the wrench on the bolt while my buddy cranked the handle. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/9...91/index7.html
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07-18-2010, 09:25 PM
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#55
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lancaster Ca.
Posts: 173
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Did you bleed the air from the head per FSM? This is an issue with the head design which the FSM makes not of and can cause erratic cooling behavior. The cap should not allow overflow until you reach the 16 psi setting but trapped air in the head can cause increased expansion and contraction.
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07-18-2010, 10:41 PM
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#56
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 100
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Does this apply to all Jeeps? I have a cherokee. I usually park facing uphill and fill the cap very slowly. I also drill an 1/8th inch air bleed hole in the thermostat. Just be sure to install with the hole at the top. I didn't know about bleeding the cooling system on an XJ. If I don't see a bleed bolt on the water neck then I don't consider it. But it makes sense.
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07-20-2010, 05:02 PM
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#57
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 54
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So, where do you stand with this? My 4.0 is having similar problems. Let me ask you, are you getting heat in the vehicle????
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07-20-2010, 05:24 PM
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#58
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Restoration Complete
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RowJ
Pulled head yesterday. On head gasket - only one VERY small spot between #1 and #2 where fire ring was 'bulged' off the gasket material and could have allowed combustion gas into the coolant? Doubtful enough that I'm having the head fluxed to be sure no cracks.
Other problem - must have gotten too hot before I caught the problem (when lower radiator hose blew). Melted small section of top lip of #1 and #2 piston. Minot scoring on cyl. walls. While the head is off, will drop pan and replace rod bearings, pistons and rings!
Question - Any trick to getting the bottom exhaust manifold bolts tightened. They were only finger tight when we removed the manifold and I can see why. Can't get to some of them with anything but a short open ended wrench from underneath!
RJ
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While you're there, Stroke that bad boy
As for the exhaust manifold bolts, I made lots of faces, made up new dirty words, used smaller wrenches than I wanted to, and moved from above then below and back about 12 times before I got 'em all tight. That's about the worst job you can perform on a Jeep straight 6 best I can tell.
__________________
'98 Wrangler Sport, 4.6L Stroker
12 Counterweight 258 Crank (cut snout-casting #3214723), Sealed Power +.030 Hypereutectic Pistons, 5.875" Connecting Rods, CompCams 68-231-4, Ported/Polished Head, Edelbrock Header, 24# Ford Blue-top Injectors, 63mm bored OEM Throttle Body, Port matched Intake, Autolite Platinum plugs, Accel Coil, LiveWires Distributor & Wires, Centerforce Clutch, Hurst Shifter, modified Mustang GT Air Cannister - CAI, 18" Magnaflow and 2 1/2" exhaust, Balanced Rotating Assembly, Custom PCM tune.
Yeah, I built it!
Exhaust clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwUOa...ature=youtu.be
'04 Mustang GT, 4.6L
Light modifications
Read more, Post less, Search often
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07-20-2010, 06:46 PM
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#59
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Texas/OK Border
Posts: 1,659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoh1030
So, where do you stand with this? My 4.0 is having similar problems. Let me ask you, are you getting heat in the vehicle????
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Heat in vehicle? If you mean from heater ducts.....No. Well...yes, when turned on!
Just got high coolant temps and exhaust in the coolant.
Ordering pistons, rings, etc and dropped head off for Magna Flux, to be sure it's not cracked..... but it's several towns awayl not picked it up yet.
RJ
__________________
98 TJ w/ 4.0L, 5 speed, 4" lift, 1.25" BL, 4.56 gears, Lockers, T.T., 33" Cooper STT's.
2002 Dodge Diesel 2500, Ext Cab/Long Bed, 602 HP/1244 Ft-Lbs
Last edited by RowJ; 07-21-2010 at 11:38 AM..
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07-20-2010, 06:56 PM
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#60
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Texas/OK Border
Posts: 1,659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George Dickel
As for the exhaust manifold bolts....... That's about the worst job you can perform on a Jeep straight 6 best I can tell.
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Which manifold? My real question is are any of the after market manifolds easier to install?
RJ
__________________
98 TJ w/ 4.0L, 5 speed, 4" lift, 1.25" BL, 4.56 gears, Lockers, T.T., 33" Cooper STT's.
2002 Dodge Diesel 2500, Ext Cab/Long Bed, 602 HP/1244 Ft-Lbs
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