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New to TJs

4K views 68 replies 18 participants last post by  Pine_Cat 
#1 ·
I am a CJ guy but looking to get something more modern for my sons first jeep. Settled on a TJ but I know nothing about what are the best model years for engine, trans, etc. For CJs it is widely recognized to stay away from the SR4 transmission found in '80 & '81 models. What are some similar issues in the TJ world?
 
#3 ·
I personally would avoid 2005-2006 models with the 4.0L engine which has a problem with the oil pump drive assembly. Some claim it is easily fixable, I'm not even close to agreeing with that based on many posts saying otherwise that I've read over the years.

If you want a manual transmission, either of the 5-speeds that came in the TJ is fine. The 6-speed seems to have more problems, it is not as heavily-built as it should have been.

If you want an automatic, I'd stick with a 2004 or older which has a little simpler and less troublesome 4-speed automatic control system. Having had the 3-speed automatic that came in 2002 and older TJs with the 4.0L, I'd take that any day of the week over my current 2004 with the 4-speed automatic. The 3-speed automatic is one of the best automatics to have ever come out of Detroit.

My first choices would be a '97, then a 2001 through 2004. '98 to 2000 are fine too but they just don't have an internal/built-in code reader for the diagnostic trouble codes the computer generates if/when there's a problem. Of course you can buy your own external code reader for the '98-'00 models.

So I guess I'm saying '97 through 2004 would be fine when knowing some of the fine points as indicated. Also, I'd stick with the 4.0L as the 2.5L really won't give any better mpg in typical driving conditions. :)
 
#4 ·
I'm a life-long CJ owner as well and did a LOT of research and found that 2004 was considered by many to be the best overall year, there are other good years but it seemed that for various reasons 2004 was the winner if you had to pick a single year. Seemed even more-so if your looking for a Rubicon with an Automatic though you didn't mention any particular package or if you had a choice in automatic or manual transmission.

If you can afford one (and they really aren't that much more than other models if you search around) the Rubicon will give you a lot of the gear that he would be likely to want to add later.

~
 
#7 ·
If you can afford one (and they really aren't that much more than other models if you search around) the Rubicon will give you a lot of the gear that he would be likely to want to add later.
This all depends on one's ultimate plans. For some, it causes you to overpay for stuff that you are going to replace anyway. The TC is really the only equipment on a Rubicon that is usable for builds beyond a certain point.

Oh, and as to the OPDA issue that Jerry mentions, I'm in the opposite camp. Far from the epidemic it gets made out to be and there are good aftermarket options to address it.
 
#5 ·
2002 auto would be my choice for best overall, with no known defects and the last year of a very good tranny. I would trade mine for one.
 
#11 ·
I have been around jeeps for a while, no expert, but from what I have experienced. Most TJs with the 4.0 and D44 rear axle seem to be good for first timers. They ALL are prone to rust in frame if not maintained. Ax15 tranny for manual and 3 speed auto as mentioned are very rugged. My 97 has been outstanding, very simple to maintenance. Don't be scared of a 4.0 with 150,000 + miles if it's been cared for. IMO
 
#13 ·
TQCoach,

I feel if you can afford a 2nd gen model, a Rubicon is a great choice IF you can find one that is not priced much higher than other models, but I know not everyone agrees totally with that plus you can't always find a Rubi for the same price, they are out there but you have to be patient and sometimes willing to drive or fly further to get one.

So how about some more practical general advice to help your question might be if we can make a list of things that most everyone could agree on. 100% of us will never agree 100% on hardly anything. However, there are things that most of us know to be true that would be helpful to share with you.

A few that I can think of off the top of my head include;


1. Check for rust.

2. Check for rust. Seriously... Frame, body, fenders, windshield frame, you name it! If at all possible take it somewhere that it can be put on a lift and really look it over good.

3. Watch out for idiotic mods done by clueless previous owners. One already upgraded with a lift and what all can look cool and can save some money if it's mods you would do anyway but check them out or have someone who knows Jeeps check them out (or if all else fails get lots of pics and post here) to make sure that the PO who did the mods wasn't "clueless" and did more harm than good. You don't wanna be fixing other peoples screw-ups.

4. A second generation 03-06 model is more refined inside and nicer as a daily driver (have friends with early models who wish they'd gotten a 2nd gen model) but they will also cost more on average. There is nothing wrong with the 1st generation (97-02) but the second gen is just more refined, especially the interior, instrumentation and controls, nicer seats, etc.

5. Many models, esp. 1st generation generation models seemed to come with 3.07 gearing. Avoid it if you can. Several of my own friends are dealing with this now. 3.07 gears SUCK pretty much all the way around and especially if your son may ever want to go with larger tires, which he will, can almost promise it. If you look you can find 3.73 gears in those same models for the same price. So know what gear ratio your getting. If someone claims they have upgraded the gear ratios refer back to #3 and ask who did the work. If they said "them and their buddy" did it themselves in their friends garage... uh, yea... There are certainly guys who can do it properly in their own garage, but a lot of people can't and literally did it by watching a YouTube video on how. That's one I just heard recently when I went with a friend to look at a '99 model that was for sale and it was clear the guy was an idiot based on the work he did that we COULD see, didn't even want to imagine him and his drunk buddy in their garage setting up gears properly using YouTube as a guide some Saturday night.

6. They often cost just a little more but the 4.0L inline 6 is the way to go. Yes people get by with the 4 cylinder models and many are happy with them but the 4.0L is where it's at, can't say it any simpler than that. The 4.0L can handle about anything he can throw at it, wont feel like he's using "two mice on a treadmill, a rubber-band, and a piece of cheese on a string dangled in front of them" as a power-plant if he want's to put on larger tires. Plus will hold it's resale value much better should he ever decide to upgrade later.

7. There was some models (someone please chime in and specify, my mind is blank but I want to say 00-01 models) that had a serious issue with some faulty heads cracking. So may want to steer clear of those models. I know Jerry Bradford knows and maybe he will chime in and make sure I'm right on those years.

8. As someone eluded to earlier the 05-06 models had an OPDA issue, also sometimes known as the "screaming monkey" syndrome so you should not consider one of those UNLESS you spend a LOT of time doing research on the subject and watching a few YouTube videos BEFORE you go to buy one of those models. So you know what you may or may not be getting into. If the problem hasn't reared it's ugly head the fix is actually simple and easy and only about $115 the last I heard, but you need to know what to look and especially listen for on the 09-06 models if you look at those.

9. If your looking at 2nd generation models with Automatics, including Rubicons, the 2003 model had a shallower transmission pan which lead to a larger chance of over-heating.

10. OK, Someone else take a turn here, I know I'm forgetting some...

~
 
#16 ·
I'd heard that before buying but found where Petersen's had done a 10 year anniversary article about the Rubicon a few years ago and they mentioned this supposed reliability issue (had a whole list of pros, cons, and myths surrounding the first 10 years of the Rubicons) but said in reality the actual numbers are very very small even for hard core wheelers and often due to people not using the correct fluids, never changing their fluids, and often after getting water into their diffs and continuing to drive them. That the design was and is actually a reliable and proven design carried over from a Dana design.

~
 
#17 ·
This is about the time when biffgnar closes the thread for going off topic. Thank you for your service. :salute:
 
#18 ·
Close, but going to try a different approach on this one.

OP had nothing to do with the issues here and had a legitimate question so lets see if we can keep the thread open for that. There was zero reason to keep the exchange around that happened so its now gone. And there should be no reason for it to be revisited.

I wasn't around last night so all I got to do was see the exchange after the fact, but sure looked to me like everyone involved needs to ask themselves whether they acted in an appropriate fashion.
 
#19 ·
Back on topic...

I am also a mature CJ owner ('78).

I owned a new 2005 LJ Rubi with a 6 speed & 4.0. I never had a problem. Had to sell it at 40k miles.

Bought a used 2006 LJ Rubi with a 6 speed, 4.0 at 30k miles after looking for about 9 months a year ago. Bone stock. No problems yet, although I did buy a replacement (Crown) OPDA just in case.

I am not a hard core off-road user. Mostly the beach on Padre Island. Always run it through the car wash after the beach.

Live in So. TX where there is no snow, ice, or salt on the roads.

I plan to keep my '06 forever.

Good luck!
 
#20 ·
Thanks for all the great info! Just the kind of feedback I was hoping to get. The 2nd gen is out of budget and against my will we are looking for an automatic. Looks like a 97-02 (with preference for 02) with 4.0L, 3.73 gears, no rust and low miles is the unicorn I am after.
 
#21 ·
Looks like a 97-02 (with preference for 02) with 4.0L, 3.73 gears, no rust and low miles is the unicorn I am after.
That would be a great choice if you can find one. I wouldn't mind having an '02 with the 3-speed automatic instead of my '04 with the 4-speed automatic. He'll love the automatic for offroading, they have a lot of advantages over manuals on tougher trails.
 
#23 ·
Jerry B, I mentioned it earlier and was hoping you'd chime in on it but wasn't there a couple of year models in there somewhere that had some issues with heads cracking?
I figured if anyone knew which years those was it'd be you.

~
 
#31 ·
jerry b, i mentioned it earlier and was hoping you'd chime in on it but wasn't there a couple of year models in there somewhere that had some issues with heads cracking?
I figured if anyone knew which years those was it'd be you.

~
2000-01'.
 
#24 ·
Just my 2 cents as a very light trail rider (no mods), every day TJ driver, and father ...

I've got two TJ's, a 98' 2.5L 5-speed hard top and an '06 4.0L automatic soft top. I love them both.

The '98 is a blast to drive. I've been commuting to work with it (it also does double duty plowing and towing when needed) for 14 years; it has over 250k miles on it. It is all stock. I get about 20 mpg consistently (mixed highway and city). Actually during the summer months it's more like 22 mpg.

The '06 has more power especially on the high end, rides a bit smoother, and has more amenities (a/c, nicer sound system, etc..). It is all stock and gets about 16 mpg (mixed highway and city).

If I were buying one for my teenager today, and I had no interest in doing any major wheel size related modifications, it would be the 2.5L 5-speed hands down ('97 -'00). As I said, they are a blast to drive and lacking a bit in power isn't a bad thing when it comes to teenage driving ;). Also, the 4-bangers are significantly cheaper which is also not a bad thing when it comes to a young drivers first car. And while some may not think it's significant, a 15% to 20% difference in fuel economy is certainly significant to me and my wallet.

:cheers2:
 
#28 ·
Another thing that I was thinking about with the 4.0L is what if his first Jeep becomes not only his first car but becomes something he loves and keeps long-term like happens with so many Jeepers who start out young. If that happens then years from now he will definitely appreciate the 4.0L, even sooner if he does decide to build it up any.

~
 
#34 ·
tqcoach said:
Thoughts on this one? I know it's not really a Rubi but any other comments jump out?

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5648249597.html
Somebody spent some money and some wrench time. It looks good outwardly and that price is nice to have all that stuff on it.

I think I would want somebody experienced in Jeep TJ models to check it out to make sure all of that stuff seemed to be installed properly. But it was installed properly that price looks really good to have all that though will also depend on the miles.

Did he not mention how many miles it had on it or did I just overlook it?
 
#38 ·
Rust on one fender but he has OEM replacement. Sounds like some surface rust underneath but nothing totally roached out. 4WD not operational because driveshaft needs to be shortened from transmission conversion. Transmission from wrecked Cherokee with 160k miles.
 
#41 ·
I'm a little concerned about the while "4x4 doesn't work right now" part. If it really IS just because it needs a new driveshaft that's fine, but why didn't they finish that after all that other work. I'd absolutely want it checked by someone to make sure that's really the only reason the 4x4 is not working and that both ends are really going to work if you put in a driveshaft.

~
 
#48 ·
Little known fact: Boogiemans birth certificate actually reads "Edward Nigma".
 
#56 ·
I am also a CJ guy. Drove two CJ-7's and a Scrambler throughout highschool and college. Just a few weeks ago I purchased a 97 Sahara 5 speed with the 4.0. I haven't looked into it but I assume I have the 3.07 gears, but with 31's on it, it still goes down the road great. The fender has some cancer. Not sure how deep it goes but doesn't seem too bad. Seems like you'll have to decide if this is a daily driver or a wheeling Jeep. Daily driver I don't think you can go wrong with any of the year/motor/trans combo's. What does your kid want?
 
#58 ·
MrAndersonJeep said:
I am also a CJ guy. Drove two CJ-7's and a Scrambler throughout highschool and college. Just a few weeks ago I purchased a 97 Sahara 5 speed with the 4.0. I haven't looked into it but I assume I have the 3.07 gears, but with 31's on it, it still goes down the road great. The fender has some cancer. Not sure how deep it goes but doesn't seem too bad. Seems like you'll have to decide if this is a daily driver or a wheeling Jeep. Daily driver I don't think you can go wrong with any of the year/motor/trans combo's. What does your kid want?
I think you are right. He wants a lift and bigger tires but I think would be happy with 31s if we end up with 3.07 gears. This will be a DD for the foreseeable future. His criteria are pretty minimal at the moment, he just wants it to be auto.
 
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