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#1 | |
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Off-Road Solutions
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New Guy with lots of questions
I am new to your forum and have several questions. I have a 97 TJ 2 inch lift running 32". I have absolutly no power what so ever and will be getting my gears changed in the next couple of months. I've heard this shouldn't be done unless you have experience. Can it be done and if so, any good instructions on the web. I've read several posts and it seems everyone has a differant opion on gear ratio. I would like to either go 33 or 35s, this is my daily driver so I would still like to be able to drive 70+ on the freeway. A local shop suggests 4.10 but thats not what I'm reading on your forum. Concerning lockers, what suggestions ? I need to do this one step at a time and money is definetly a factor. I know air lockers are the best way to go but what are my other alternatives. If I go with a 4 inch lift will 35s work ? Whats would be the best lift to install, from an economical viewpoint. Will I snap my axles on a dana35 with 35's ? Any suggestions if I should upgraded axles too ?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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#2 |
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tubework is cool...
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I'll tackle a few items in random order...
I would NOT attempt to do gears myself... which gears you need will also depend on your tranny...auto or manual (I don't recall you posting that info)... depending on which brand of lift you buy, you might be able to run 35s...the RE 3.5" lift, plus a 1" body lift, will give you plenty of room for 35s... lockers...will depend on how much $$ you want to drop, and the functionality you want...you can spend anywhere from $200-$300 or so for a lunchbox locker that you can install yourself, up to the $350-$450 range for a full Detroit locker that is much quieter, stronger and also replaces the carrier...or up to $600-$800 for a selectable locker like an OX or ARB... personally...I just dropped both of my axles off about an hour ago to have gears redone and ARBs installed... the "one at a time" theory will depend on your locker choice...if you go lunchbox, you can do it in stages...if you do something else, you'll end up paying the labor twice... Greg
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2001 TJ 60th Anniversary Edition (details in Profile) www.carolinarockshop.com All the pics I have...including a Table of Contents |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Its only time until you break the D35 with 35 inch tires. You can get a super 35 kit to upgrade your axle or swap in a D44.
You need 5-6" of lift to run 35s. I have slighty over 4" of suspension and a 1.25" body lift. For 33s you need slightly over 4 inches. As far as gear ratios go if you have a 5spd and 35s go with the 4.88s if you have the auto go with 4.56. Heres a chart with ideal gear ratios. To give you a reference my Jeep came with 31s and 4.10 gears and had plenty of performance. http://www.oly4x4.com/gearratios.htm
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2004 Black Rubicon w/ 5 spd RE 3.5 SuperFlex & Front Trackbar / JKS 1.25" BL & MML / 35x12.5 MTRs on 15x8 AR-23s / Currie Anti-Rock / Jeeperman Bumpers / Rokmen Sliders / York OBA / Harbor Freight 8k Winch The Reptile File A discussion forum on geckos, lizards, snakes, and other reptiles. |
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#4 |
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Off-Road Solutions
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Ok guys, thanks for the quik responce. Basically if I go with 35's sooner or later I'm going to have axle problems. So if I go with 33's 4:10's or 4:56's ? As far as lockers go, ight be best to wait until I can do it right.
Thanks Billy |
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#5 |
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What the hell?
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: at the bottom of Big Cotton Indian Creek, GA
Posts: 1,435
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My understanding is that 33s and 4:10 is ideal.
There is a conversion chart somewhere on this forum, or at least a link to it. Welcome to forum! Bil
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. www.wHerndon.com ________________________________ '05 Rubi, Patriot Blue, RE SF, Antirock, Warn, Fabtech, Tomken _________________________________ 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo V8, Patriot Blue Stock ________________________________ '93 YJ Sport, Canyon Blue 4.0, auto, air, limited slip, HT. 2.5" Rancho suspension, Ramsey 8000 _________________________________ Previous Jeeps... '91 XJ Laredo, white '87 YJ Sport, white |
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Flemington NJ / Boone NC
Posts: 2,497
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4.56 if u arent goin any higher than 33. if u will go higher go with 4.88 so u wont have to pay for labor twice, when i do my gears om goin with 4.88 ( now im 33's with 3.73 and it blows) because i will be running 37's after the 33's
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stretched *** tj [URL]webwheeling.com[/URL] |
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#7 |
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Member
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I dont see why he couldnt do the gears on his own. Just get a dial indicater and a few other tools and take your time. With the marking compound on the gears....check out the pattern the teeth make and dont settle for much less than perfect. Read up alot on it and then read some more. After that I'd say go for it.
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#8 |
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Registered User
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if you find that you cant install the gears just get a freind with a pickup truck to come pick you and your axle up and go to a shop.
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99' Sport: 33's with 3.5" RE & 8k lbs winch |
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: A Stones throw from the Rubicon
Posts: 116
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I just had all this done. I upgraded to 4.56 gears to run 33's. A higher RPM at hiway speed but not bad. I think you'll find you don't want to go much more then 70 with 33's anyway.
I choose the ARB lockers because it is a daily driver. A fulltime locker like a Detroit will change how your jeep corners and wear your tires faster. Lunchbox, or parttime locker, are to my way of thinking like anything else that tries to be two things at once. They work ok for street and offroad but are not as good at either as something designed to do one specific task. Airlockers are the best of both worlds. I normally do all the work on my jeep however for gears and transmissions I let a shop do the work. It is very exacting and requires special tools. If you do something wrong your brand new gears and lockers will come apart very quickly and will not be covered under warranty since they were installed wrong. I had the shop install the gears and lockers but did the compressor, airlines and electrical myself to save a little on the labor. Hope that helps.
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98 TJ Sport, RE LA 4.5 BL/MML, 35" TrXus M/Ts, ARBs front and rear, 4.56 gears, Wilderness SwingAway System, Warn front bumper w/winch |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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i'm running the RE 3.5" superflex with 33's just fine. my friend has the same kit with a 1" body lift and clears 35's fine as well. i still have the 3.73 gears and it's not that bad, if i must go 70MPH up hill i just drop it in 4th, my rpms aren't anywhere near the red. if you do have the d35 in the rear you could always lock the front first with a lunchbox. it is not that hard to do yourself and it will only engage when you are in 4wheel drive. there are plenty of guys in our club who lock the d35 and have not had any problems with 35 inch tires. but i have read of people running 31's that thrash the d35. i think it just depends on your wheeling style and experience.
if i were to do it all over again since this is my daily driver, i'd get the RE standard lift or a BB throw on with 32" tires, slap on a front locker with the money i just saved and learn to pick good lines, rather than just drive over everything. IMHO
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2003 Wrangler X Freedom Edition Mods: RE 3.5 superflex, 33 bfg, cobra xwst, dome light switch, warn 8274 |
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