Negative Camber Wear - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 29 Old 07-03-2016, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
aldersonfilm
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Negative Camber Wear

Rotated my tires today after noticing that the fronts where significantly worn, after only about 10,000 miles of driving. When I pulled the fronts off, I noticed some serious negative camber wear on the tires. Ball joints appear to be fine, but standing in front of the jeep, it does indeed look like the tires are angled inwards at the top slightly. There is some vibration and wandering in the steering at highway speeds. 4 inch suspension lift, stock dana 30 in front. Can't remember a serious impact on the trail, but doesn't mean it didn't happen. Any ideas?

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post #2 of 29 Old 07-03-2016, 08:16 PM
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Set the toe in
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post #3 of 29 Old 07-03-2016, 08:23 PM
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Did you check the hub bearings.? There is no camber settings for these axles... Unless you bent the tube.
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post #4 of 29 Old 07-04-2016, 12:40 AM
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Set the toe in to 1/8" or the front tires will start to wear out the outer edges within a week. Nothing else is adjustable with your Zone lift. I rotate mine every oil change (3,000 miles) and run 26-28 psi for 33's.

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post #5 of 29 Old 07-04-2016, 10:13 AM
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Set the toe in to 1/8" or the front tires will start to wear out the outer edges within a week. Nothing else is adjustable with your Zone lift. I rotate mine every oil change (3,000 miles) and run 26-28 psi for 33's.
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post #6 of 29 Old 07-04-2016, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
aldersonfilm
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Toe is already set in 1/8th of an inch. Has been for some time. It's the inner edge of both front tires that is wearing, not the outside. Could being toed in too much cause the reverse to happen (i.e. my problem?) I am aware there is no camber adjustment, so I'm not sure what could be going on. I feel like I would have had to come down fairly hard on something to bend my axle in such a way to cause both front tires to be cambered out. Not sure what's involved in checking the hub bearings. I do have a tiny bit of a squeal for a moment when the tires getting rolling and when coming to a stop, but I have so far chocked that up to noisy seals in the transfer case.
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post #7 of 29 Old 07-04-2016, 04:52 PM
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jack that front up and put on jack stands... Then take and grab the tire at top and bottom and wiggle.. If any play the hub bearings are bad.
also not sure how you checked the ball joints.. But just looking at them aint gonna get it unless you know what to look for.
Can while its on stands take another jack or long board and wedge under the knuckle and push up.. The ball joint that is bad will allow the knuckle to move up..
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post #8 of 29 Old 07-04-2016, 04:52 PM
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What tires/size? 10,000 miles is probably to long between rotations, especially for oversized tires with aggressive tread.

This is also why it's nice to buy tires through a store, like Discount Tire, because you get free lifetime rotation/balancing and they'll do it as often as you want. I usually rotate with every oil change too, or before a major trip.
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post #9 of 29 Old 07-04-2016, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
aldersonfilm
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33" tires. I did buy them at Discount Tires as it turns out, but I rotate them myself every 5,000 miles. This uneven wear seams to be fairly sudden, and I'm trying to figure out what I might have done to cause it. I did do a redneck alignment to toe it in slightly, and I'm wondering if the inaccuracy of such a procedure could have resulted in my tires being toed in much more than I thought. I did a 12 and 6 o'clock tire wiggle on mine and didn't see any play, and I don't have any pops or clicks while turning, but I'll try this method and report back. There is a bit of play and a knock with the 9 and 3 o'clock wiggle test, but that seams to be coming from my steering box shaft.
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post #10 of 29 Old 07-04-2016, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
jack that front up and put on jack stands... Then take and grab the tire at top and bottom and wiggle.. If any play the hub bearings are bad.
also not sure how you checked the ball joints.. But just looking at them aint gonna get it unless you know what to look for.
Can while its on stands take another jack or long board and wedge under the knuckle and push up.. The ball joint that is bad will allow the knuckle to move up..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcUZRDQcovE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLcVZO6FdTc
If you use those videos to determine ball joint viability, you will be replacing ball joints at sub 10,000 mile intervals.

All ball joints develop a small bit of vertical slop after a few thousand miles when the weight of the rig wears in the lower ball and race to each other. Since the upper pin floats up and down in straight race, it will move up and down with the lower and as long as there is no lateral play in any direction in the upper, they are good.

edit- looking at the second video and the fact that the lower moves in all directions is what makes it bad?

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post #11 of 29 Old 07-04-2016, 07:12 PM
88hatchy
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Camber doesn't wear tires unless it's extreme enough to keep part of the tire off the ground.

Like everyone else suggested, check for loose/worn components, make necessary repairs, and have the Jeep aligned.

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post #12 of 29 Old 07-04-2016, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 88hatchy View Post
Camber doesn't wear tires unless it's extreme enough to keep part of the tire off the ground.

Like everyone else suggested, check for loose/worn components, make necessary repairs, and have the Jeep aligned.
Not necessarily true. The wear shows up if there is uneven contact pressure across the face of the tire... IMO
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post #13 of 29 Old 07-05-2016, 07:58 AM
Jeepsr4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
If you use those videos to determine ball joint viability, you will be replacing ball joints at sub 10,000 mile intervals.

All ball joints develop a small bit of vertical slop after a few thousand miles when the weight of the rig wears in the lower ball and race to each other. Since the upper pin floats up and down in straight race, it will move up and down with the lower and as long as there is no lateral play in any direction in the upper, they are good.

edit- looking at the second video and the fact that the lower moves in all directions is what makes it bad?
I posted those as a way to show OP how to test the Ball joints.. Something has caused his tire to lean. And eliminating each thing is all I am trying to do.
There is in the FSM the allowable amount of movement up and down. there should be no side to side.
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post #14 of 29 Old 07-05-2016, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
I posted those as a way to show OP how to test the Ball joints.. Something has caused his tire to lean. And eliminating each thing is all I am trying to do.
There is in the FSM the allowable amount of movement up and down. there should be no side to side.
How to test only works when the parameters are also posted. Showing someone how to test something is useless if they don't know what to look for and those videos suck donkey balls as far as what they tell you is a bad ball joint.

If the FSM has an allowable vertical limit, then dig it out and post it up to continue to try and help but quit posting stuff without the explanation as to what is good and what isn't.

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post #15 of 29 Old 07-05-2016, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
How to test only works when the parameters are also posted. Showing someone how to test something is useless if they don't know what to look for and those videos suck donkey balls as far as what they tell you is a bad ball joint.

If the FSM has an allowable vertical limit, then dig it out and post it up to continue to try and help but quit posting stuff without the explanation as to what is good and what isn't.
OK... And you have added nothing at all... But being a smart ***... But I know you been called that before so its nothing new.. I am trying to help this person. YOU on the other hand just want to show you are superior in some way.

[EDIT: You made your point, final unnecessary comments edited out.]
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