Needed Parts to lift a TJ - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 36 Old 09-14-2012, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
Caddac
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Should I just look for a Rubicon? It will help remove the cost of buying a new front and rear dana 44, and I can find them for either the same price, or a couple thousand more.

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post #17 of 36 Old 09-16-2012, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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bumpity bump bump
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post #18 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 07:02 AM
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yes, if you plan on going there anyways, just get a rubi. the 4:1 TC is another great benefit.

and stop looking at pro-crap stuff. for $3k you can buy any kit on the market, there are several that are better
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post #19 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 09:35 AM
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Another vote for the Rubi. If I could do it again, knowing what I know now, I'd have held out for a Rubi rather than buying a sport.

Also I'd go with OME (Old Man Emu) for the suspension lift if I had that kind of coin.
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post #20 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
Caddac
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Alright thank you both very much. The pro comp was the cheapest 4" long arm suspension kit, which is why I used it as a price reference.

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post #21 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead_Jed
yes, if you plan on going there anyways, just get a rubi. the 4:1 TC is another great benefit.

and stop looking at pro-crap stuff. for $3k you can buy any kit on the market, there are several that are better
If I do get the rubi, would I need to still swap the front and rear Dana 44's for new ones in order to take the strain?

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post #22 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Caddac View Post
If I do get the rubi, would I need to still swap the front and rear Dana 44's for new ones in order to take the strain?
IIRC for 35s, the Dana 44s will be sufficient. You will need to regear though, so factor that in. I was quoted by two different shops for regear, $800 and $1300.
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post #23 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caddac View Post
Should I just look for a Rubicon? It will help remove the cost of buying a new front and rear dana 44, and I can find them for either the same price, or a couple thousand more.
I think a large number of us, given the option to go back and do it again, would start with a Rubi

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post #24 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
Caddac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RioRyan

IIRC for 35s, the Dana 44s will be sufficient. You will need to regear though, so factor that in. I was quoted by two different shops for regear, $800 and $1300.
Yeah I figured. Thanks very much for the quote, I'll use that as a bargaining price :P

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post #25 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMBJ33P

I think a large number of us, given the option to go back and do it again, would start with a Rubi
Of course. The only issue I'm having is finding Rubis for sale, and the rare times I do, in a colour I very much dislike.

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post #26 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 10:34 AM
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theres a good reason for that. since it was only available from 2003-2006 most of the soccer moms that bought them have long since traded them in or resold them. most people that have them now are wheelers and are not planning on letting them go...ever
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post #27 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 10:47 AM
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When I was looking for a TJ I looked at a 2003 I think, it was a yellow Rubi and had surface rust all over the body. The guy wanted $12,000. I can't remember what the mileage was, but with the amount of rust I took one glance and said no thanks.
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post #28 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RioRyan
When I was looking for a TJ I looked at a 2003 I think, it was a yellow Rubi and had surface rust all over the body. The guy wanted $12,000. I can't remember what the mileage was, but with the amount of rust I took one glance and said no thanks.
Most p the ones I've seen are pretty decent with not having rust. Any certain areas to keep an eye out for rust?

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post #29 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Caddac View Post
Most p the ones I've seen are pretty decent with not having rust. Any certain areas to keep an eye out for rust?
Well when I was looking at buying, I saw several that had the tops of the fenders rusted out. Besides that, check the frame especially near where the rear lower control arms attach to the frame (just in front of the rear tire). Also if you can, have them fold down the windshield so you can look inside the hinge. I didn't find out for 3 weeks after I got mine, that my windshield frame is so rusted it needs replacing. It doesn't show at all from the outside.
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post #30 of 36 Old 09-17-2012, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RioRyan View Post
IIRC for 35s, the Dana 44s will be sufficient. You will need to regear though, so factor that in. I was quoted by two different shops for regear, $800 and $1300.
$800 is pretty reasonable if you are including gears. Your best bet is to take the axles out of the Jeep and bring them to the shop. They wont charge as much.

Also you HAVE TO regear both axles at the same time.

Is there a reason you want a long arm vs. short arm kit? Just wondering, you could go either route.

Hopefully you can find a Rubi!

97 TJ Dana 30 w/ARB Solid Cover, Currie 4" lift, Ford 8.8 w/ Riddler Cover, Currie Steering, Trail Gear Front Bumper, LOD Rear Tire Carrier, Smittybuilt XRC8, 35" KM2's, 5100 Bilsteins, Teraflex Oil Pan Skid, Poison Spider Sliders, Rock Lights etc.
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