Need help with Auto Rust Safe T Cap frame repair. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 19 Old 07-16-2017, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
RickDel73
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Need help with Auto Rust Safe T Cap frame repair.

Hello, I want to install an AutoRust ART-131 full center left and right like this:



I have very little mechanical and welding experience, so I've been doing A LOT of research. A LOT!!! The problem now is I'm running out of resources and still have lots of questions. (I think I've watched every Youtube video and searched every forum I could find on the subject).

So, here's two questions I can't find answers to...

First, how are you guys welding the back side behind the upper control arm / brake mount and the frame? I don't see how this can be done without lifting the body off the frame, which I don't want to do. I haven't researched that, but assume it would be difficult.

[IMG][/IMG]

Second, the Safe T Cap instructions suggest disconnecting the exhaust system from the catalytic converter back. I assume that means at this point, but how do I get this apart?

[IMG][/IMG]

BTW, you may see my control arm is disconnected and fuel line / evap line is out of place. That's because I've been PB Blasting everything and taking things apart in preparation.

Any advise is greatly appreciated (including links with good instructions). I don't mind reading, but finding sources can be hard.

Thanks,
Rick

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post #2 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 07:52 AM
toximus
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I think the nuts are welded to the exhaust but the bolts should come out just fine. I'd suggest torching them first.


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post #3 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 07:55 AM
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Lifting the tub enough to give you room to get in there with a welder isn't hard at all compared to the rest of the work you're taking on.


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post #4 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by toximus View Post
I think the nuts are welded to the exhaust but the bolts should come out just fine. I'd suggest torching them first.
Backwards. The bolts are pressed in studs for one flange and the other has holes and flange nuts. Cut the nut side almost flush, grind flush, punch out the bolt and replace with all new.

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post #5 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 08:30 AM
Ej132
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When I did mine I didnt lift the tub off the frame at all, Just had to pull and move all the lines, brake/fuel, outta the way and was able to get in there, for sure not easy but doable
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post #6 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
RickDel73
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Quote:
Lifting the tub enough to give you room to get in there with a welder isn't hard at all compared to the rest of the work you're taking on.
Yeah, I'm on the fence if I'm getting in over my head.... been going back and forth this is for months. Either way, I don't have anyone else to do the job, so I'd have to sell the Jeep if not.

Quote:
Backwards. The bolts are pressed in studs for one flange and the other has holes and flange nuts. Cut the nut side almost flush, grind flush, punch out the bolt and replace with all new.
Thank you.

Quote:
When I did mine I didnt lift the tub off the frame at all, Just had to pull and move all the lines, brake/fuel, outta the way and was able to get in there, for sure not easy but doable
I must be looking at this wrong. There is ZERO clearance now. Well, actually about a 1/2" because the fuel line is above the frame, but I don't see how to do this.

I'm currently researching if I can find an 'EASY' way to raise just the rear a few inches. Like I said, I don't have much mechanical experience, so what most of you guys think is easy normally takes me days of research to understand.

BTW, how far did you pull those fuel lines? I only have about 5 - 6 inches of clearance now and I'm not sure that's enough for welding. I'm was thinking I could pull them out of way and wrap in a welding blanket, but that's probably not going to work. Ideally, I would drop the fuel tank and move the lines, but don't know how to do that. I still have a lot of research to do on the subject (just tackling one problem at a time).

Thanks Again!
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post #7 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickDel73 View Post
I'm currently researching if I can find an 'EASY' way to raise just the rear a few inches. Like I said, I don't have much mechanical experience, so what most of you guys think is easy normally takes me days of research to understand.
Google to see if you can find a write-up or instructions on installing a body lift that has pictures of the process. Same general idea: pull body mount bolts on the side you're working on, loosen (don't remove) bolts on the other side, use a jack and some lumber to lift the corner of the tub enough to put a block or two of wood between it and the frame.
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post #8 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEK3 View Post
Google to see if you can find a write-up or instructions on installing a body lift that has pictures of the process. Same general idea: pull body mount bolts on the side you're working on, loosen (don't remove) bolts on the other side, use a jack and some lumber to lift the corner of the tub enough to put a block or two of wood between it and the frame.
That's exactly what I'm doing now. Funny thing is I'm pretty sure I got the idea from one of your previous posts.

Thanks!
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post #9 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 10:15 AM
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That's exactly what I'm doing now. Funny thing is I'm pretty sure I got the idea from one of your previous posts.

Thanks!
Not sure I ever said that before, but hope you find what you need, and good luck with the repairs!
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post #10 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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OK, after researching the subject I think doing the body lift will solve my problem of space needed.

Next question...... I need to do my work in the garage, due to HOA rules, but want to clean the frame out with air and water outside after I remove the skid plate and cut the frame. Is there a way I can secure my transmission enough to move the jeep in and out of the garage without the skid plate? Do you think I can use a ratcheting strap to hold it up? Thanks.
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post #11 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 09:57 PM
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I don't see why it wouldn't work. Might want to use two, though, in case one breaks or slips, especially if you bought them at Harbor Freight or another discount store.
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post #12 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 09:57 PM
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Are you planning on moving the Jeep under it's own power?

I'm doing some similar work (no gas tank and skid removed) and plan to move the Jeep with an ATV with the TC in neutral.

Now is an easy time for you to do the BL. You'll also need to either do a MML (or raised motor mounts) or cut the fan shroud. If you're planning on doing a tummy tuck in the future the MML is the way to go.


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post #13 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 10:01 PM
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Also, if you haven't already unbolted them, absolutely torch the transmission and transfercase skid bolts before removing them. If they break it'll be a pain to cut bolts and replace with nutserts plus another $60 or so if you can avoid it.


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post #14 of 19 Old 07-17-2017, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks JEK3

Quote:
Are you planning on moving the Jeep under it's own power?
If possible.

Quote:
Now is an easy time for you to do the BL. You'll also need to either do a MML (or raised motor mounts) or cut the fan shroud. If you're planning on doing a tummy tuck in the future the MML is the way to go.
My brake and vapor lines do look bad (hopefully I won't damage the fuel line on this project). And I want to get my frame right before considering a lift. Thanks toximus
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post #15 of 19 Old 07-18-2017, 05:49 AM
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When trying to move the Jeep without the skid plate I wouldn't start it, I would just push it.


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