[gecko5]

Wow...

Thanks a ton Alex!

[AlexGeorgakis]

No problem. Let me finish putting everything together first before following this list. There are a few things which I wouldn't spend money on had I known how they are put together, such as the front tube fenders.

[gecko5]

Originally Posted by AlexGeorgakis

No problem. Let me finish putting everything together first before following this list. There are a few things which I wouldn't spend money on had I known how they are put together, such as the front tube fenders.

Interesting.. I ran the 4" flare rears and 4" fenders from GR on my last build and loved them. Granted mine weren't aluminum.

I'll be stretching (BTF rear frame)

Still considering the TNT front frame stretch as my intentions are to go full hydro

Going tons and ORI's so the bracketry will be different.

I already have the drivetrain (Will be using the auto behind the hemi that came with it) and am starting the axle sourcing.

will be full cageing but won't be running any spares.

My last build i completed the full frame off in about 2 years.. I intend to take my time moreso with this one as i want it to be my last

[AlexGeorgakis]

What I don't like about the aluminum fenders is that you have to cut and reuse the stock fenders in order to get proper support. TNT's look much better.

I managed to get around 2" of forward strech with Genright's track bar bracket, but not more than that because the track bar would hit the twisted pitman arm. Also, if I go further forward I'll hit the radiator. I would recommend you go full hydro from the beginning as that will determine your entire front geometry. You'll probably be triangulating the upper arms in order to eliminate the track bar but then you'll find that your truss will be hitting the radiator. It won't be easy. Also, you are aware that full hydro is not street legal right?

As for the rear, I got a hell of a lot more stretch than Genright does. I got their EXT gas tank and cut parts of my rear bumper as you've seen in my thread. I then reinforced the bumper with 6mm plate and pushed the EXT tank even further back. I think I have around 9" of rear stretch or so on my Dana 44. I'll be able to give you exact numbers when I assemble everything next week.

If you plan on crawling then ORIs are the way to go. If you plan on go-fast type driving then stay away from them and stick to coil overs.

Genright's cage worked out quite well. If you get the same cage try to figure out where ALL parts go BEFORE you start the installation, otherwise you'll start wondering why you have left over pieces when you're done... (don't ask!!!) Their instructions aren't that great.

Have you considered building a tube buggy? It will be a lot simpler than modifying a Wrangler and will definitely be more satisfying as a build because you dictate where everything goes. Just a thought.

[gecko5]

I still like the ability to take it out on weekends for a nice drive and that's been the decider on a buggy or not. While technically full hydro is illegal, it depends on your geographic local on the enforcement. As i am in Canada and specifically in the province of Ontario, i know many who have full hydro and drive on the roads and have been doing so for many years. Like my last build, this'll be a weekend rig so it won't be driven allot. To get technical, Modifying the suspension geometry from OE is also illegal as i have been told. My last build, i went with a custom built cage and will probably do the same a again to cut down on costs but i do like the GR set for sure!!!

[AlexGeorgakis]

If you really want to cut down on costs get yourself a good 200A welder and a tube bender, and work away. With just a few basic tools and access to a local machine shop you can build almost anything at a third of the price.

[AlexGeorgakis]

Today I washed the body inside and out using a pressure washer....and guess what!!! Water was seeping through every single crack and crevice in the body!!!! Wherever the floor panels come together Jeep has simply bent the sheet metal and spot welded the two pieces together! It's unbelievable! You'd think there's at least some basic waterproofing!!!

I'll let the body dry tonight and tomorrow morning the we'll apply joint sealant EVERYWHERE!!! Then we'll paint over the sealant and once it's all nice and dry we'll stick on a layer of heat insulation from the firewall to the back of the front seats. That should keep any heat and water out. We can then mount the body on the frame and while the mechanic will be busy installing pipes and wires, I'll paint the interior with Monstaliner. This way hopefully we can turn her over by Monday!

Oh I also broke the windshield as we were lifting the body to take it outside for washing! Damn hood hinges!!!

[gecko5]

Originally Posted by AlexGeorgakis

If you really want to cut down on costs get yourself a good 200A welder and a tube bender, and work away. With just a few basic tools and access to a local machine shop you can build almost anything at a third of the price.

Yup, got em both

[AlexGeorgakis]

Painted the undercarriage today using an anti stone chip coating. Turned out very nice. It kinda looks like a network of fibers.You just need a larger nozzle than what comes with your standard paint gun because it's pretty thick. I'll apply one more coat tomorrow.
I then need to source some heat insulation before I install the body back on the frame. DEI seems to have a good product and they even have an agent in Athens. I'll give them a call in the morning to see if they have this material in stock.

[AlexGeorgakis]

Did a little more work over the past few days. Painted the body on the outside, finished the roll cage, installed the engine wiring, installed fuel and brake lines, and various other things here and there. I won't post many pictures now because I want to leave the final outcome as a surprise. All the steel parts are going for powder coating tomorrow.

[AlexGeorgakis]

Herculined the interior and spray painted the dash.

[MGIMELLI]

Originally Posted by AlexGeorgakis

Herculined the interior and spray painted the dash.

How was working with the herculiner? Jeep is looking good.

[AlexGeorgakis]

Very easy actually. Used the brush to get to all the narrow spots then two layers using the roller. I'll know tomorrow how it sticks on.

[AlexGeorgakis]

The Herculiner paint has stuck on very well. It's hard as nails! The only thing which I'm not too crazy about is that it's a little glossy. I sprayed some matte black on the tailgate and it looks much nicer. I'll do the same in the rear as well. I won't do the front cause it's covered by the console and seats.

Triple rate coil overs from Fox arrived yesterday but I can't put them on until I get the links back from powder coating.

So while I wait I painted the dash black using a special spray paint for plastic. I used matte black because plastic tends to give a little gloss to paint. It turned out real nice.

We also re-installed the A/C unit. The problem with it is that Jeep has left the holes on the firewall unsealed. Once you remove the dash and A/C unit you'll find half a mountain of dirt dried up behind your firewall! So after we cleaned the unit and firewall thoroughly we applied silicone sealant around the holes on the firewall before mounting the A/C unit. That should keep mud and water out now.

Today we'll be finishing off the wiring and plumbing so hopefully we can finally turn that baby over!!!

[Shobes]

This is an amazing build man, like everybody else who's commented before me I really appreciate the level of detail you've gone into explaining your calculations and reasoning. I can't wait to see the final pictures!

On a side note, can you give us a quick summary of the things you'd have done a little differently knowing what you now do?