My 8.8 build thread - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 307 Old 12-26-2013, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
rikkards
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My 8.8 build thread

Got some really good info when I did my High Pinion Dana 30 thread and figure the more that is out there, the more people can learn as every build is different.

The plan with this axle is:
4.56 gearing (ordered)
ARB Selectable Locker (ordered)
Yukon Ultimate 88 axle kit to widen it out and beef it up (not needed for 33's but planning for the future). Plus replacing the seals and bearings make it more worth it
Artec Truss

First some before pics:





Cleaned the snow off and got the following done:
- Removed the sway bar
- Removed the shock (no idea what that was for to be honest) and bracket
- Opened it up and removed carrier (everything looked fine) and drained most of the fluid except some that is in the axle tubes

One thing I didn't notice when I got the 8.8 is the holes that I used on the HP Dana 30 for the diff spreader are welded over on the 8.8. Since the 8.8 is a more sturdy casing I may be able to get away with not using the diff spreader with the new arb and just use a deadblow to get everything in.

Definitely can see why people say the cover is thin. Even the stock Dana 30 cover isn't that pathetic


Next steps are:
- Remove old axle seals and bearings
- clean out inside.
- get rid of all old brake hardware as it is all shot.

New locker, gears and install kit should be coming in the next week or two. No rush though.

Needless to say my wife wasn't impressed with the smell. The Dana 30 was bad enough this had almost 3 times the amount of diff fluid in it so it really smelled. Really need to look at getting a new internal garage door, it isn't that air tight. Should be fine by tomorrow but it definitely didn't help make dinner appetizing with that smell in the background.

Lessons learned:
2014-01-11: I have learned is I should have removed the fill bolt which is on the front side of the pumpkin near the pinion.
2014-03-31: I have learned with the Artec Truss it is designed for the standard size bushing for the Track bar. If you happen to have an aftermarket Trackbar (i.e one of the Currie ones) confirm the size of the JJ by measuring the rod. Mine was the CE-9123N which has the 2" JJ at both sides and a 2" rod. The standard trackbar bushing is about 1.6" wide so it normally won't fit. Currie makes a JJ that is 1.6" wide called Narrow. You can replace the old one with that. So you will need to get a 2" narrow Right hand thread 1" shank or to keep it simple:
CE-9112-13


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post #2 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 06:52 AM
tyvanwie
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Subbed. May be doing this swap down the road.

I don't even own a jeep anymore
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post #3 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 07:17 AM
TXST8tj
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I'll watch. Just dropped my 8.8 off with my axle guy. Doing very similar things, minus the ultimate 88 kit. He talked me out of it as the stock shafts should be fine, and it's easier to carry spares if I just stick with upgraded stock style shafts.

I am still waiting on my ARB and Artec truss to show up. I have already received the ARB compressor and Riddler diff cover, as well as the Black Magic e-brake relocation bracket (so the calipers can be reversed and relocated to the front side of the axle).

Good luck!

Patrick

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post #4 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 07:28 AM
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The 8.8 is very easy to shim as the shims go on the out side of the carrier bearing, no need for a spreader. Way way easier than the Dana 30!
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post #5 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
I'll watch. Just dropped my 8.8 off with my axle guy. Doing very similar things, minus the ultimate 88 kit. He talked me out of it as the stock shafts should be fine, and it's easier to carry spares if I just stick with upgraded stock style shafts.

I am still waiting on my ARB and Artec truss to show up. I have already received the ARB compressor and Riddler diff cover, as well as the Black Magic e-brake relocation bracket (so the calipers can be reversed and relocated to the front side of the axle).

Good luck!
Thanks I was thinking of skipping as your guy is right, the 88 is definitely overkill for 33's and having stock shafts would make it easier. But it looks like the Master Install kit doesn't provide new axle bearings (I could be wrong though as I haven't received it) and the old ones look like they could be replaced. That's about $40+shipping to get them here (although that includes both sides and new seals. I am also toying with just getting chromo shafts and maybe buying spacers to widen out. I am intending to do 35's in the future and would rather futureproof it now. But at the price for the chromo shafts I may as well do the Ultimate 88. If I decide to go Ultimate 88 later it would be a waste of $140 (new bearings plus diff fluid to change).
So what is the benefit in moving the ebrake to the front? I have heard about it but haven't looked into it.
EDIT: went and read the link on the Blackmagicbrakes.com site and makes sense. Might look at doing it in the future. I have enough on my plate right now and only so much time and money allocated. Things have got a bit more expensive and want to keep it somewhat within budget. Side note: I really prefer when people post the instructions on how to install so it gives you an idea how it works and what it entails. I understand the hesitation some vendors have in doing it but security through obscurity doesn't work.

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post #6 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpukas2 View Post
The 8.8 is very easy to shim as the shims go on the out side of the carrier bearing, no need for a spreader. Way way easier than the Dana 30!
Putting an Arb in on the D30 also moved the shims outside. But ARB strongly suggests using a spreader as the D30 housing is so flimsy that any flex in it will cause the ARB to leak due to deflection.

I did notice that there were two (yes only 2) thick shims located on the outside of the bearings on the carrier and that kind of confused me. I was expected there to be more thinner ones and not just two. I wasn't sure what they were for and was figuring there are more under the bearings.

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post #7 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikkards View Post
Thanks I was thinking of skipping as your guy is right, the 88 is definitely overkill for 33's and having stock shafts would make it easier. But it looks like the Master Install kit doesn't provide new axle bearings (I could be wrong though as I haven't received it) and the old ones look like they could be replaced. That's about $40+shipping to get them here (although that includes both sides and new seals. I am also toying with just getting chromo shafts and maybe buying spacers to widen out. I am intending to do 35's in the future and would rather futureproof it now. But at the price for the chromo shafts I may as well do the Ultimate 88. If I decide to go Ultimate 88 later it would be a waste of $140 (new bearings plus diff fluid to change).
So what is the benefit in moving the ebrake to the front? I have heard about it but haven't looked into it.
EDIT: went and read the link on the Blackmagicbrakes.com site and makes sense. Might look at doing it in the future. I have enough on my plate right now and only so much time and money allocated. Things have got a bit more expensive and want to keep it somewhat within budget.
Well, I actually just ordered some aftermarket shafts (Ten Factory). They are not chromos, but upgraded over stock and come with new bearings. I figured if nothing else, brand new bearings and wheel studs, and slightly stronger shafts wouldn't hurt. I can keep the stock shafts for spares.

The purpose of the BM kit is to reverse the calipers, which makes more room to outboard the rear shocks. My shocks are not currently outboarded, but eventually will be.

Patrick

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post #8 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
Well, I actually just ordered some aftermarket shafts (Ten Factory). They are not chromos, but upgraded over stock and come with new bearings. I figured if nothing else, brand new bearings and wheel studs, and slightly stronger shafts wouldn't hurt. I can keep the stock shafts for spares.

The purpose of the BM kit is to reverse the calipers, which makes more room to outboard the rear shocks. My shocks are not currently outboarded, but eventually will be.
I haven't pulled the trigger yet on the Ultimate 88 so jury is still out

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post #9 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikkards

I did notice that there were two (yes only 2) thick shims located on the outside of the bearings on the carrier and that kind of confused me. I was expected there to be more thinner ones and not just two. I wasn't sure what they were for and was figuring there are more under the bearings.
That's how mine was, two thick shims and no thin ones. I ran Superior chromo shafts in mine, didn't see the point of a super 8.8 kit as it changes it to a none OEM shaft if it breaks, the 8.8 kit was designed for drag racing as they don't allow C clips. I thought it was a was of $, the disk brakes will hold the shafts in if the C clips fail.
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post #10 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpukas2 View Post
That's how mine was, two thick shims and no thin ones. I ran Superior chromo shafts in mine, didn't see the point of a super 8.8 kit as it changes it to a none OEM shaft if it breaks, the 8.8 kit was designed for drag racing as they don't allow C clips. I thought it was a was of $, the disk brakes will hold the shafts in if the C clips fail.
The disc brakes will hold it in enough to limp it off the trail to fix it. Don't expect to be able to drive it home that way.

35" MTR Kevlars
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post #11 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 11:30 AM
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Yup, I just like having back up shafts
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post #12 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by UTWeezul View Post
The disc brakes will hold it in enough to limp it off the trail to fix it. Don't expect to be able to drive it home that way.
Most of the trails in my area you wouldn't be limping off, you would be doing the swap on the trail. There are a couple that are hydro lines but most contain enough obstacles that I would be hesitant to be relying on the caliper bolts to keep the axle on.

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post #13 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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One of the other things I still need to decide on is whether to just get a flange adapter or go with getting a proper yoke. The yoke is more pricey but I am sure there is a pro to it.

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post #14 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 12:13 PM
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My axle guy told me the adapter was the better way to go. He said that our u-joints are more common and easier to pick up in a pinch.

Patrick

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post #15 of 307 Old 12-27-2013, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Understood but the yoke fits our u-joint. Here is an example:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Inland+Empire/...-1310/10002/-1 (Link is for 1310 version not 1350, looks like a copy/paste typo)
Basically rather than having the flange and an adapter you have a yoke.

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