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Unread 01-12-2005, 08:23 AM   #1
Jeep14636
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More axle?s Upgrade D35 or swap it out?

I have a D35 and am considering an axle upgrade or axle swap in the future and have some questions that primarily revolve around total cost and ease of work. Here is my questions:

Should I upgrade to a super 35 with arb or swap out to a D44? Either way, I want to regear so please take that into consideration.

I have a well stocked garage and love to turn a wrench, however, I know my limitations. That said, if I swap out to a D44, it will need to be a direct bolt on application. I don't have access to welding and steel cutting equipment so I would like to avoid axle fabrication work to get it to fit.

Also, I have a SYE with TW DS with less than 5,000 miles on it. If I swap out to a D44 will I need a new leght DS? If so, this will add to the cost of the axle swap option. I've seen complete D44 going for around $1000. Does this sound accurate? I would love to get a complete D44 with 456s and disc brakes. This would then only require me to regear the front. If I swap axles, is there a market for used D35s? What could I get for it? It has under 25,000 miles on it.

Thanks to all for your response on an already battered topic.

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Unread 01-12-2005, 09:33 AM   #2
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If you get a D44 from a TJ then it will bolt right up, don't know if you will find one with discs, but your D35 drums will bolt right up to the 44 so that is the cheaper option. I am doing this swap right now and it is pretty straightforward, not many surprises, and definately not a fab job. Not sure about a new drive shaft since I am doing an SYE as well. I think the D44 makes the driveshaft length 1/2" shorter, but I am not totally sure. Not sure about D35 prices on the used market, but I will find out shortly since all my D35 stuff will be for sale!
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Unread 01-12-2005, 09:45 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep14636
I have a D35 and am considering an axle upgrade or axle swap in the future and have some questions that primarily revolve around total cost and ease of work. Here is my questions:

Should I upgrade to a super 35 with arb or swap out to a D44? Either way, I want to regear so please take that into consideration.

I have a well stocked garage and love to turn a wrench, however, I know my limitations. That said, if I swap out to a D44, it will need to be a direct bolt on application. I don't have access to welding and steel cutting equipment so I would like to avoid axle fabrication work to get it to fit.

Also, I have a SYE with TW DS with less than 5,000 miles on it. If I swap out to a D44 will I need a new leght DS? If so, this will add to the cost of the axle swap option. I've seen complete D44 going for around $1000. Does this sound accurate? I would love to get a complete D44 with 456s and disc brakes. This would then only require me to regear the front. If I swap axles, is there a market for used D35s? What could I get for it? It has under 25,000 miles on it.

Thanks to all for your response on an already battered topic.
You will be very hard pressed to even find a bolt in d44 with discs and 4.56 gears, and if you do, there's no way it will be in the price range you mentioned above. If you do switch to a 44, your driveshaft will be a little to long if anything, but if it is a driveshaft shop can easily shorten it for you. As far as the market for a dana 35, you can't barely give those things away, check ebay. How big do you want to go with your rig, and how much do you have to spend, those are the questions you need to ask yourself. I am only planing to run a 35 at the most, so my super 35 will serve me just fine, not to mention it was significantly cheaper than a d44 swap. Troy.
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Unread 01-12-2005, 01:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by river rat
How big do you want to go with your rig, and how much do you have to spend,
I doubt I'll go beyond 33's, this is my DD and doesn't see tough trails. I'd like to stay as far below $1500 or 2K as possible. My concern with the Super 35 is that I will need to pay for the installation of everything (I'm assuming - never installed axles, lockers, etc.), including the gears. If I could find a bolt on D44 (even without the gears), all I would have to do is pay for the gear install.
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Unread 01-12-2005, 04:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep14636
I doubt I'll go beyond 33's, this is my DD and doesn't see tough trails. I'd like to stay as far below $1500 or 2K as possible. My concern with the Super 35 is that I will need to pay for the installation of everything (I'm assuming - never installed axles, lockers, etc.), including the gears. If I could find a bolt on D44 (even without the gears), all I would have to do is pay for the gear install.
My friend with a YJ runs 33's with ARBs on a stock 30/35 with 4.11's. He's been doing it for about 5 years now with no problems. Just carry some spare shafts in case, he does althought he hasnt ever broken/snapped a shaft. You'll be fine, I'd say get some spare shafts and WHEN/IF you break the D35, look into something better, if it aint broke dont fix it.
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Unread 01-12-2005, 04:44 PM   #6
JSBlu974X4
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go to my junk in your trunk, he sells ford 8.8s with your choice of gearing, locker, and brackets set up for around 1500
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Unread 01-12-2005, 05:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBlu974X4
go to my junk in your trunk, he sells ford 8.8s with your choice of gearing, locker, and brackets set up for around 1500
how bout more info on this guy, a web link or something?
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Unread 01-12-2005, 05:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supertj4415
how bout more info on this guy, a web link or something?

www.myjunkinyourtrunk.com
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Unread 01-12-2005, 06:14 PM   #9
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With a little knowledge you can easily install a super 35. Its a very simple install, the hardest thing is setting the backlash, but a good dial indicator and some time will do wonders. I'd go for the super 35, other people will tell you "you can only polish a turd so much" but i have one and know alot of people that have them that have had no problem. A super 35 will handle up to 35" tires easily, plus the total cost already includes a locker were as another swap will have additional costs.
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Unread 01-12-2005, 06:17 PM   #10
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screw that. Go with the 8.8 You'll be sitting with 31 spline axles and disc brakes and if you find the right one 4.10 gearing stock with LSD. I've found numerous ones for sale at salvage yards for 250-350. Post 96 ford explorers are the donor cars. Just buy the mounting kit from MORE and you'll just need someone to weld it together.
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Unread 01-12-2005, 06:20 PM   #11
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heres the exact link
http://myjunkinyourtrunk.com/Forum/v...360c6ae940d585
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Unread 01-12-2005, 06:24 PM   #12
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Axle swap

I've been researching in depth on this same subject. I'm running 31's but will buy 33's when they wear out. I need gears, so the rest of it just comes with regearing.

I've read ALL the posts here on axles, swaps, upgrades, and such. Lots of opinions, lots of driving styles. The bottom line is you need a strong axle or you'll break it, and a selectable locker if you drive on the road a lot.

4:10's are what I need for an AT and 33's. Regearing the front D30 runs in the mid-$600's for gears, bearings, seals, a carrier, and setup. I'm going open for now to save costs, and with a locker in the rear I'll be in pretty good shape for trails. If I find I really need a locker in the front I would have an ARB installed. That way you can switch it off when you don't want it, like for turning, snow, on-road, etc.

Now for the big cost, the rear. R&P change and a super 35 install with ARB is going to run about $1700. It has been recommended to have an ARB setup professionally because it's a carrier replacement. Plus I need gears anyway, so I've been quoted all over town $350 to $400 to setup R&P and an ARB.

Drivetrain Direct sells a complete bolt-in D44 with gears and ARB for $2250. That's a no-brainer for me. Now matter how you cut it, upgrading the D35 is expensive, and simply a waste of money in comparison. DTD had the best price for an axle that I have been able to find anywhere. Currie wants $3050 for the same item. BTW, they want $2950 for a Ford 9. Others were similarly priced.

I was all ready to go with a Ford 8.8 conversion but got scared with stories of driveshaft vibes impossible to cure due to the pinion/yoke offset. Does anyone have anything on that? Lot's of people say they run them no problem, but with a double cardan shaft the pinion needs to point at the TC. If it's offset, it can't. One guy said they had to mount them off-center and run a spacer on one side. That's not how I want to set mine up!

No matter what I find, it looks like about three grand to regear front and rear and lock the rear, with decent hardware anyway. Let me know if anyone has a better way to go.
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Unread 01-12-2005, 06:58 PM   #13
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CJDirtbiker - It certainly looks like you've done your homework. You've illustrated the reason I don't want to do with an 8.8. To much fab work with many questions left over. The D44 completely setup will cost a bunch up front, but may save just as much down the road.
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Warn x8000i on Tomken winch mount
Sony Head Unit with integrated iPOD, 10 disc changer, Pioneer amp
Cobra CB with Firestik antenna
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AA SYE with a Woody
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Unread 01-12-2005, 10:05 PM   #14
cjdirtbiker
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$1,000 for D44

Jeeps Are Us sells a new OEM D44 housing with 3:73's setup at the factory: $749.

Seems like a good deal and I may buy one and just run it. Put a No-Slip or an ARB in it and just re-gear the front to match. 3.73's will be fine with my 31's, and just okay with 33's (auto trans).

Here's the catch....

Plus shipping - $125

It doesn't come with axles. OEM's are $500, Superiors are $400, and Yukons are $300. Plus shipping. Unless I can find them around here.

It has a 3:92 or lower carrier. Which isn't really a problem if you're going to re-gear with a locker anyway. But there's no gearing option, just 3.73.

No brakes. Well, I can use my D35 brakes. But then I may as well put new cylinders and shoes in, and turn the drums. More $$.

I don't know if you need to add e-brake cables, driveshaft change, or anything else to bolt it in.

In any case, everything I hear says a D44 is much stronger than even a super 35. I think the worst thing about the 35's is the axles that will fall out if they break. At least most other diffs will let you at least limp out with the front diff, or get towed out. Am I right here, or misunderstanging the c-clip axle retainer? I'm not too excited about getting stranded 20 miles into some remote area. And I'm not too excited about carrying spare axles with me everywhere I go. I've already got several hundred pounds in racks, tools, spares, gas, water, etc. Find space for two axles too?????

Jerry, can you help with other requirements for a D44 swap? Thanks!
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Unread 01-13-2005, 06:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep14636
I doubt I'll go beyond 33's, this is my DD and doesn't see tough trails. I'd like to stay as far below $1500 or 2K as possible. My concern with the Super 35 is that I will need to pay for the installation of everything (I'm assuming - never installed axles, lockers, etc.), including the gears. If I could find a bolt on D44 (even without the gears), all I would have to do is pay for the gear install.
If you get a Super 35 kit installed, it will be the exact same amount of time/money as it would be to just do the gears because it is the exact same procedure to do both. Troy.
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