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Unread 11-14-2009, 01:20 PM   #16
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Looks good. If you haven't done it, I would recommend doing the door sills and all the way around the top edge of the tub (where the top clips in). That stuff looks real thick. I'm excited to see just how tough it is after a good week's worth of drying.

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Unread 11-14-2009, 01:21 PM   #17
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i will have some pics of completely dry soon as well, nice write up
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Unread 11-14-2009, 03:20 PM   #18
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Who wants the next update????

Here it goes. The second coat was much easier. By laying any parts that required brushing really thick, it made for less work on those areas the second time around. The whole job ending up taking about 2/3rds of the can to do the tub and rear bumper twice.

For this second coat, we started rolling almost immediately. Everything once again went on nice and thick. This time, I made sure that I rolled the rear gate. My dad admitted he didn't put it on thick enough.

Once Again: GO THICK

Ok.. Picture Time:

This is the texture shown on the fender well.


Like my rat box. Since I had no center console, Imade one over the summer that never made it into the Jeep. My hope was that it would look much better with some thick Monstaliner.


Here it is after a good coat. Looks much better IMHO.


I forgot to mention this earlier: this is the crossmember that the front of the seats connects. It is not welded, and has gaps that need to be brushed in hard with liner.

Last Image for a while. This is a shot of the rear tub wet.


If anyone wants to check it out, there are about 150 pictures, all with descriptions. Follow the link back to look through them all.
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Unread 11-14-2009, 03:24 PM   #19
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looks awesome. do those specific rollers work well, or was there some home depot solution that you tried...or?
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Unread 11-14-2009, 03:32 PM   #20
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I used the rollers provided with the kit. The first coat took 2, the second only took 1. We put some M.E.K. in the catalyst can, and used that as a place to stick the mixer and the paint brush. That kept them REALLY clean.
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Unread 11-14-2009, 04:42 PM   #21
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Looks pretty good.
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Unread 11-14-2009, 04:52 PM   #22
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I'm not even wanting to line my tub, but I'm still reading through this write-up. Nice job!
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Unread 11-14-2009, 09:33 PM   #23
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Ok... if anyone wants a specific picture. This would be the time to request it. The whole interior is out.

I just got back, and the downstairs of my house smells like the stuff. It is a little strong, but not unbearable. I actually had enough left over to probably put two coats on two bumpers, and I would have offered it to anyone who was able to get here before the 10 hour pot life expired. Too bad I was going out.

Oh well... Thanks everyone for the kind words. I am going to submit it as an official article once I get the interior back in. A note with the M.E.K. Don't put your head over it as using it, it is strong, and the vapors taste HORRIBLE. I will edit the first post again to note this. Still not done, but getting there. I may start putting the interior back in tomorrow night. I want to give it at least 24 hours to cure. Tomorrow morning I will spray it down with water. The instructions say a light spray 12+ hours after the second coat will help harden it even more.

Any questions, comments, just let me know.
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Unread 11-14-2009, 09:40 PM   #24
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how did you cover up the mounting holes for stuff, then coat over them, then get the hole exposed again without getting that stuff in the threads?
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Unread 11-14-2009, 09:42 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
how did you cover up the mounting holes for stuff, then coat over them, then get the hole exposed again without getting that stuff in the threads?
I would guess putting tape or cotton in the hole or putting the bolt back in, possibly covering the head in tape
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Unread 11-14-2009, 09:46 PM   #26
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I love your question. Well the truth is, we spun newspaper in the holes and it held well. I rolled VERY hard over the newspaper, and was able to caot around it really well. After a couple of the looser ones popped out, I realized that the stuff doesn't go into the holes if you don't squeeze it out of the roller. I can get a more detailed pic of one of the screw hole to show if you want. The key is to have the paper in there when squeezing the stuff to get the main coverage. After that, it is barely touched, so my dad and I figured that if any got in the hole, we would just use M.E.K. to clean it out. The guide does say if gets where you don't want it, M.E.K. WILL take it up, as long as it is still wet.
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Last edited by LuckRider; 11-15-2009 at 12:11 AM..
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Unread 11-14-2009, 09:47 PM   #27
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Quote:
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I would guess putting tape or cotton in the hole or putting the bolt back in, possibly covering the head in tape
We actually have bolts that we planned on putting back in the holes, different ones that we had lying around. We found that the newspaper was easier.
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Unread 11-14-2009, 11:01 PM   #28
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Did you end up with any crisp lines from where you masked and after removing the masking was there a noticeable edge that would show the final thickness of the stuff? Just curious, I've seen truck beds where there was about a 1/16" well defined edge/thickness where they masked it. been wondering if they use a razor blade of something?? Just thought I'd ask in case you have any insight. Great job, looks nice.
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Unread 11-15-2009, 12:06 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J03_TJ View Post
Did you end up with any crisp lines from where you masked and after removing the masking was there a noticeable edge that would show the final thickness of the stuff? Just curious, I've seen truck beds where there was about a 1/16" well defined edge/thickness where they masked it. been wondering if they use a razor blade of something?? Just thought I'd ask in case you have any insight. Great job, looks nice.
Man.. you are acting like I am done. It is in my garage drying right now. I haven't taken the tape off Yet... That is tomorrow morning when I got to spray it with some water. If you look at this pic here from their website, you can see that it Should come off clean. I will get some more pics tomorrow when I take mine off.


Edit: Here is a pic showing the thickness of the stuff. I believe this is 1/8" steel. That would make the thickness about 1/16" of an inch. The kit claims 40 mils which equals 1/25". I think they rolled it at about 1/16" thick for this pic, and I rolled it much thicker than that. I was not worried AT ALL about wasting the stuff. I still have 1 full gallon left over.
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Unread 11-15-2009, 08:05 AM   #30
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nice. If you a pics of the newspaper sticking out and how you did that, it would be awesome. I just remembered the local hardware store carriers corks of all different sizes for like $0.20 each...might be a good way to keep the stuff out of the threaded holes.

I like the look of this stuff. I might have another spring project
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