I have Finished the work, however, this guide is still not perfect. Feel Free to PM me with any questions. I have posted my thoughts after 2 months, and it can be seen HERE.
More News From MagnetMan. The 1gallon kits are done. Speak with him for Special Forum Member Discounts and free shipping (Free shipping is as of this edit 2/7/2010, it may change).
Second edit: I was just contacted by MagnetMan with details, and this really is a deal that should convince many who are on the fence. I can't divulge any of the details, but it will be interesting to see how many orders he gets. This is my chance to say WAIT till he gives the final numbers.
Third Price Edit: Specials are subject to change. Contact MagnetMan for the best price.
I must start by saying that I could not find a better place to post this. Ok... now for the real part.
Warning: This guide provides NO guarantee, EXPRESSED or IMPLIED, for results or damage resulting from use of these instructions. Please read product information thoroughly, and all related material before beginning any work. Please be cautious, especially when working with tools and chemicals. Read all warnings relating to first aid.
So... out of the many threads here on JF, I could not find one that goes through the full process of installing a bed liner in the tub of a Jeep. I decided this was the time to show the process from seats and carpet in, to the final product. I have a total of 192 photos, all of which can be seen on my photobucket account, and they are all commented. I am going to go very slow, if you want, just look for the pics showing the info you need.
To maximize time efficiency, the following schedule will help minimize waste.
Sand the Tub
Clean with M.E.K.
Tape Stuff Off.
Start day 2 Early
Do First Coat
Allow 3-5 Hours to dry. You should be able to feel that it has set up.
Do Second Coat
You can roll coat 1 and 2 on different days since you have 36 hours to complete the second coat. I recommend doing it all in one day because the pot life of the liner is long enough (up to 10 hours if you remember to close it) to do both coats in one mix. After mixing the first gallon, I had a little more than 1/3 of the gallon left over, this included the tub 2x, rear bumper 2x, and the wooden console 1x.
This is a cure day. Lightly spraying all coated areas with water will help cure the material faster. This must be done No Less that 12 hours after final coat.
After application of final coat, wait 24 hours before light work. I would suggest using this time period to reinstall seat brackets, seat belts, and other light items. Save the seats for the next day to help ensure a strong curing.
Wait at least 7 days before returning to normal abuse inside of the tub. This will help avoid scratches.
Monstaliner has a lot going for it right now. It has undergone many years of development and testing to get to the point it has. While the kit I happened to have used is very expensive, the cost to do a Jeep should drop by quite a bit. According to MagnetMan (from Magnet Paints, the makers of Monstaliner), a kit will soon be availible in the sub $100 range that is more of the size to do a Jeep, with a some rubber crumb to add texture. Monstaliner also has flexibilty. It can be rolled, requiring less work, and no need to an air compressor. It provides a professional finish when rolled. It also has the ability to be sprayed with a common shutz gun, providing more options for the owner.
If spraying Monstaliner, a resperator is REQUIRED. Prep work differs because everything must be taped off to prevent damage from oversray.
MONSTALINER™ from Magnet Paints is not just another truck bed liner but one of the most unique coatings you will ever find. If you've done your bed liner homework, you know that spray-in liners get costly and most paint type liners must be sprayed or they just don't look right.
Monstaliner is the first UV permanent coating ever developed and optimized specifically for installation by roller. Consistent surface texture from start to finish is what makes Monstaliner the #1 choice for do-it-yourself installers.
Now you're probably thinking to yourself that this stuff has got to be just like that cheesy looking Herculiner. WRONG! Monstaliner contains no crumb tire rubber. It's unique texture is created exclusively by the roller in combination with some mad coating science. Monstaliner is 100% UV permanent and guaranteed never to chalk, fade or discolor. You'll never need to apply additional surface protection, dressings or topcoats to maintain or restore its appearance.
About Monstaliner's Competition:
Over the past 8 years, many new bed liner coatings have come to market. With the exception of few, most products are designed for spray application and are not optimized as roll-on products. Listed below, you will find the items considered to be do-it-yourself coatings but they are far from professional and consistent in their appearance. Monstaliner™ is the only D.I.Y. product on the market that is capable of providing professional looking results with roller installation and is UV Permanent as well.
1) Herculiner holds the top spot and admittedly has poor UV stability leaving many truck owners disappointed when the product looks like trash in just a few months. Contains a heavy concentration of crumb rubber and despite its deficiencies, continues to sell well. The company now offers a UV topcoat protectant to keep it "looking new" as their website says. Manufactured in South Africa for Old World Industries who owns Peak brand antifreeze. Herculiner is an aromatic (non UV stable) moisture cure urethane. Kit contains 1 gallon of coating, roller, brush, scuff pad and can opener - Approx $90.00
2) Durabak is manufactured by the same company that makes Herculiner and comes in two versions, one with no UV stability and the second version does claim to be UV stable for 50% to 60% higher price. Both contain crumb rubber and are moisture cure urethanes. 1 gallon includes roller - $80.00 for non-UV product / $130.00 for UV stable product.
http://www.protectakote.co.za/prodinfo.asp, Duram - Smart Paint - Products
3) Rustoleum Road Warrior is a two component epoxy product also claiming to “fade over time due to the suns ultra-violet rays”. Directions say to use a spray protectant to restore the original look. A kit contains ¾ gallon of pigmented epoxy polymer and 1 quart of curing agent, roller, sanding block, drill mix blade, brush - $110.00
4) Duplicolor is by far the lowest cost product on the market and the quality is indicative of its price. Not much more to say other than it is also available in a spray can? Chemical composition is a vinyl chloride polymer. Sold in gallons for $60.00 with roller kit sold separately at $13.00
A note before starting. Torx bolts can be very temperamental. Mine happen to have been VERY
Using a good (expensive) set of Torx bits helps prevent stripping.
Tools (* denotes included with kit):
Tools for Stripping the Interior:
An extra pair of hands (Find a friend, neighbor, fellow Jeeper, anyone willing to help)
2x Flat Head Screw Drivers
1x Phillips Head Screw Driver
Masking Tape and a Pen
-t50 Torx Bit
-t40 Torx Bit
-t20 Torx Bit
Tools for Prepping the Surface:
2x *Sanding pads (Easier if cut in half)
1x Quart Methyl Ethyl Ketone (M.E.K.)
Tools for the First Coat:
The Second coat is the same
2x *Pairs of Included gloves (one per person working)
1x *50ft Roll of Low Tack Taper (Painter's tape)
1x *1 Gallon Can of Liner
1x *1 Pint Can of Catalyst
1x *Roller Handle
2x *Applicator Heads
1x Drill Cordless or Corded
Newspaper for filling in the holes.
Should you need to wipe something with the M.E.K. to remove wet liner, REMOVE your gloves first. They can be easily eaten by the M.E.K. and this happened to my dad Twice.
Another thing is that you should use a variable speed drill. Starting slow when mixing, and gradually adding power will prevent making a mess.
Removing the Interior:
A couple of notes before we begin:
When removing the interior parts, find a bucket or bin that can be used to store the bolts safely. Nobody wants to figure out what bolt they lost.
With a soft top, folding it back, then flipping it back forward opens up a lot of space, and makes work easier.
Let's begin with the rear seats:
Start by folding seat. This is done by lifting the handle shown.
After tumbling the seat forward. Grab the handle shown which will release the seat from the bracket.
Then remove the rear section of the carper. Start by pulling the front side of the carpet up. Work it back, simply by pulling it.
Make sure you allow the seat belt catches to go through the holes in the carpet.
The next step is to remove the bracket holding the seat belt catches. This requires a t50 torx bit.
After that I removed the carpet on the inner fender wells. Remove the bolt that holds the bottom of the seat belt (also a t50). It is not necessary to remove it, but it makes removing the carpet easier, and needs to be taken out at some point. Both the driver's side and passenger's side are the same.
Note: When removing the bottom of the seat belt, pull out some slack, allowing the retracter to take too much in will cause problems when reinstalling. Once again, Please learn from my mistake.
I can't believe I don't have pics from the rear seat brackets. The 2003-2006 TJ uses the nicer style bracket, and that requires a T50 to remove the bolts. The older style bracket uses a 1/2" socket for the bracket. Thanks to cadeucsb for the info
When removing the the bolt, make sure you don't lose the little black rings.
This is what it looks like without the carpet.
The brackets that hold the rear seat (also seen in the picture above) should also be removed now. They are also t50 bolts. When removing make sure you mark the location, and direction to avoid later confusion. Once again, these are the same on both sides.
Moving on to the front seats:
Each front seat has 1 Torx bolt in the back. Since you were just using this very same bit remove that bolt first.
Continuing with bolt oddities, the bolts behind the seats are different. The next bolt is 1/2" I know this is a bad picture, but it shows the different bolts.
While not really necessary, removing the doors keeps them safe and out of the way. I mention it here because it makes removing the front bolts easier.
These are once again 1/2" bolts. I have pics of both sides, but they are exactly the same.
With all of the bolts removed, there is only one last step before the seats can be removed. You need to unplug this plug, and remove the wire from the little bracket.
Don't forget, the stock location for the jack is behind the passenger seat. To remove it you need to loosen the jack using the yellow turn handle.
To remove the carpet in the front, we need to first remove the console over the shifters. We start by taking out the mat at the bottom of the cup holders. This requires 2x Flat Head screw drivers, but that is not shown in the picture.
The 10mm bolt inside can now be removed. This takes the back cup holder off from the break back.
I should now note, taking the console out is easier if the transfer case is in 4-Low. Follow the owners manual for information on entering 4-Low.
The next step is to remove the 10mm bolt from underneath the shift indicator. Lift the indicator up, and it pops out, as well as the piece that sits below it.
The little bezel the the shift indicator mounts to may be worked over the top, followed by the entire console. Leave the shift indicator there because the handle would have to be taken off to remove it, not worth the work.
To finish removing the carpets, there are 4 retainers that must be removed from under the dash on the firewall. There are 2 on each side, and they are easily removed by placing 2 fingers behind them and pulling out. I placed them back on their studs after pulling the carpet from behind them so that I didn't loose them if I needed them for some reason.
After the carpet is pulled from behind the clips, the carpet may be peeled towards the back of the Jeep. There are 2 push pins, one on each side that hold the in, just pull up.
To Be Continued (I have too many pictures in this first post)