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Unread 10-19-2009, 11:46 AM   #1
wrangler10
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modifications i will have to make after putting in a 2.5" suspension lift

im looking to get the RC 2.5" suspension lift, what will i need to do in terms of motor mount or brake lines or anything else i will have to worry about after putting htis lift on.

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Unread 10-19-2009, 11:50 AM   #2
TheBoogieman
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What size tires will you be running? A MML will allow you to NOT use the 1" t case drop that comes with the kit.You should install the lift WITHOUT the t case drop and see if you get any vibes.If you do, you can drop the t case 1/2" with washers or do a MML.Get the $17 rear track bar relocation bracket if the axle shifting 1/2" over bothers you.I just did the RC 2.5" with the 3/4" spacers.I added an extra 1" up front to level it more and I'm running 35's.I did the MML to avoid the t case drop.The same stuff holds true for a 2" BB.


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When I had 3.07s I would draft behind birds as an attempt to do the speed limit.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 11:53 AM   #3
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Don't use the full gigantic RC t-case drop. That's more than you would ever need for just 2.5" of lift. IF you even need to drop the skid due to vibes, just use washers between the frame and skid. Start with 2 and see if that does it. Ideally, you want to only drop the skid as far as you need to, nothing more. That's if you even need to drop it, though. No, you won't need anything else but it also depends on what size tire you'll be running.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 11:57 AM   #4
Airborne4X4
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03 and newer autos (maybe manuals too, but not for sure), their belly skid has a cross member forward of trasfer case, the front driver shaft will hit this cross member at full droop on the drivers side. Mml on my friends online 6 didn't fix the problem. The drop kit on another friends inline 6 didn't help either...

Where going to do some cutting and welding to get clearance for them. PITA.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 12:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airborne4X4 View Post
03 and newer autos (maybe manuals too, but not for sure), their belly skid has a cross member forward of trasfer case, the front driver shaft will hit this cross member at full droop on the drivers side. Mml on my friends online 6 didn't fix the problem. The drop kit on another friends inline 6 didn't help either...

Where going to do some cutting and welding to get clearance for them. PITA.
I've got an 03' auto and have no problems at all.
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When I had 3.07s I would draft behind birds as an attempt to do the speed limit.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 12:13 PM   #6
Airborne4X4
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Originally Posted by Airborne4X4 View Post
03 and newer autos (maybe manuals too, but not for sure), their belly skid has a cross member forward of trasfer case, the front driver shaft will hit this cross member at full droop on the drivers side. Mml on my friends online 6 didn't fix the problem. The drop kit on another friends inline 6 didn't help either...

Where going to do some cutting and welding to get clearance for them. PITA.
BTW, the mml did fix some very bad vibes onthe driveline, it's almost a must. The trackbar bracket relocator is somewhat of an maybe, plus once the springs sag/settle, the rear axle will move toward being more centered. Please pass on the xfer case drop. You'll kill most of you lift by dropping the belly skid.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 12:23 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by imped4now View Post
Don't use the full gigantic RC t-case drop. That's more than you would ever need for just 2.5" of lift. IF you even need to drop the skid due to vibes, just use washers between the frame and skid. Start with 2 and see if that does it. Ideally, you want to only drop the skid as far as you need to, nothing more. That's if you even need to drop it, though. No, you won't need anything else but it also depends on what size tire you'll be running.
Crap! I just installed this kit yesterday with the gigantic t-case drop! I don't have any vibes, but I didn't try it without the drop either.

Should I leave it alone now or take the spacers out and see if I have any vibes? Dang it!
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Unread 10-19-2009, 12:25 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by FishFox View Post
Crap! I just installed this kit yesterday with the gigantic t-case drop! I don't have any vibes, but I didn't try it without the drop either.

Should I leave it alone now or take the spacers out and see if I have any vibes? Dang it!
Take it off and see.It takes 10 minutes to remove it and you can still use the longer bolts.I used those pucks for bumpstop extensions on mine.I lifted my 98' 4"s and only dropped the t case 1/2" with washers.A MML would have done the same thing.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 01:08 PM   #9
Yellowhammer
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Thanks Boogieman. I'll take it off this weekend and check it out. I was wondering if I could still use those longer bolts.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 01:12 PM   #10
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Thanks Boogieman. I'll take it off this weekend and check it out. I was wondering if I could still use those longer bolts.
Yup,the longer bolts just go up through the frame rails.
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When I had 3.07s I would draft behind birds as an attempt to do the speed limit.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 01:19 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
I've got an 03' auto and have no problems at all.
Then you aren't using your rig offroad.

Seriously though, 3" of lift will almost always cause the front shaft contact the factory auto tranny skid crossmember when flexed out. Check your driveshaft for any evidence of contact in the form of a ring on the shaft.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 01:23 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Xlr8n View Post
Then you aren't using your rig offroad.

Seriously though, 3" of lift will almost always cause the front shaft contact the factory auto tranny skid crossmember when flexed out. Check your driveshaft for any evidence of contact in the form of a ring on the shaft.
If it isn't louder than the normal bangs,squeeks and clunks,my stereo takes care of that.I replace stuff as it breaks and never worry about it before.Life is short,unless you've been to prison.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 02:11 PM   #13
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I also did not use the tcase drop and have no vibes at all. My axles moved a bit over but I did not put in any track bar relocation products either. I might end up doing that at some point but for now all is good. The only thing I have is the 33x12.50 hit the stock control arms at full lock. I put in a couple of washers on the trun limiter colt and that made the passenger side good but the drivers still hit s a bit. I might be the other way around the pass still hits and the drivers is fine can't remember.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 02:17 PM   #14
APEDZ04LJ
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i have a quick ?, if i purchased the 3.25 kit, could i save money buy not buying the swaybars there sellin that kit, and run the stock suspention ones to ill buy discos to replace the stock ones?
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Unread 10-19-2009, 02:23 PM   #15
Xlr8n
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
If it isn't louder than the normal bangs,squeeks and clunks,my stereo takes care of that.I replace stuff as it breaks and never worry about it before.Life is short,unless you've been to prison.

O.k., but letting stuff break due to inadequate set-up is kinda silly isn't it?

I'd think you'd want to avoid premature wear or failure of your driveshaft, DC joint and TC output if it is a simple fix such as taking off the skid or modding that crossmember arm when there is inadequate clearance. The issue with the lack of tranny skid clearance is a pretty well known fact on lifted auto TJ's.
You'll be replacing/repairing the front shaft on a fairly constant basis with that creedo unless you are using it on the street only.(and even then you may make contact)

Next time you have the jack out, jack up the front of the driverside frame until the wheel is off the ground and check to see how much clearance you have between the shaft and tranny skid crossmember.

Anyhow, just tryin' to give you a heads up.
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