[CCJ]

Mat, speakin of rears. What is the difference between:

1) Comp replacement rail for $200

vs

2)Comp rail for $340


Is it that the the first one does not include the base plate and other mounting hardware as in if we buy the first one and install it we will never be able to add extended flares to it unless we also get the base plate? Or am I missin something?

Lastly, do either of these kits re-use the stock mounting holes from where our stock plastic fenders use to reside or do we need to drill new holes?

[Metalcloak]

Originally Posted by CCJ

Mat, speakin of rears. What is the difference between:

1) Comp replacement rail for $200

vs

2)Comp rail for $340

Is it that the the first one does not include the base plate and other mounting hardware as in if we buy the first one and install it we will never be able to add extended flares to it unless we also get the base plate? Or am I missin something?

Lastly, do either of these kits re-use the stock mounting holes from where our stock plastic fenders use to reside or do we need to drill new holes?

Good questions, thanks!

Our Replacement Flares (Comp, 4" and 6") do not come with the base plate and mounting hardware. Originally we termed these Add-Ons because you could, for instance, buy the 6" Rear Fender Kit (which includes base plate and hardware) and buy the Comp Rail Add-On or Replacement, separately, if you wanted to switch between Street Ready and Rub Rail Rock Ready.

And there is the occassional customer who, for instance, bought the 4" and realized later he wanted to upgrade to 6" --- so we provide this option, since you wouldn't need the base plate or the mounting hardware.

It is possible for someone to buy just the flares, but only if they already has a aftermarket corner guard to weld it onto - we don't recommend mounting it directly to the tub. The base plate is specifically designed to work with our mounting system and provide the incredible strength we strive for in our products.

As for the mounting procedure, you can download the instructions from our website at MetalCloak Installation Instructions.. Some points on the base plate use the same as the stock flare, but there are additional holes you will need to drill.

Thanks again!

[6thelement]

so what has changed on the new vs old fenders?
will the old fenders work with the new rear setup ?

[CCJ]

Originally Posted by Metalcloak

Good questions, thanks!

Our Replacement Flares (Comp, 4" and 6") do not come with the base plate and mounting hardware. Originally we termed these Add-Ons because you could, for instance, buy the 6" Rear Fender Kit (which includes base plate and hardware) and buy the Comp Rail Add-On or Replacement, separately, if you wanted to switch between Street Ready and Rub Rail Rock Ready.

And there is the occassional customer who, for instance, bought the 4" and realized later he wanted to upgrade to 6" --- so we provide this option, since you wouldn't need the base plate or the mounting hardware.

It is possible for someone to buy just the flares, but only if they already has a aftermarket corner guard to weld it onto - we don't recommend mounting it directly to the tub. The base plate is specifically designed to work with our mounting system and provide the incredible strength we strive for in our products.

As for the mounting procedure, you can download the instructions from our website at MetalCloak Installation Instructions.. Some points on the base plate use the same as the stock flare, but there are additional holes you will need to drill.

Thanks again!

Thanks Mat! And just to make sure I understand.

If say, someone like myself whom just wanted the competition rear tubes that have no flare in them. And I had a stock rear fender well. Then I should buy This One... As I think it comes with everything I need if I'm lookin for no flare... Do I have that correct?

[matsonian]

Originally Posted by 6thelement

so what has changed on the new vs old fenders?
will the old fenders work with the new rear setup ?

Are you referring to the old front fenders vs. the new rears? If so, what we do for customers who have the original front fenders, is modify the rears to have the same tubular mounting points rather than the solid ball mounting points on the current system. That way your fronts and rears match. We use the same base plate and same basic hardware, just create a look more in line with your original system.

[matsonian]

Originally Posted by CCJ

Thanks Mat! And just to make sure I understand.

If say, someone like myself whom just wanted the competition rear tubes that have no flare in them. And I had a stock rear fender well. Then I should buy This One... As I think it comes with everything I need if I'm lookin for no flare... Do I have that correct?

Yes, that is exactly the kit you want, the TJ/LJ MetalCloak Removable Rear Comp Rail Kit gives you the rub rail for the rear -- basically a "zero" flare.

You also have the option of the stock or the cut-out base plate - on the cut-out we take about 1.5 inches off at the back of the tire, allowing for bigger tires on a lower lift.

[CCJ]

Originally Posted by matsonian

Yes, that is exactly the kit you want, the TJ/LJ MetalCloak Removable Rear Comp Rail Kit gives you the rub rail for the rear -- basically a "zero" flare.

You also have the option of the stock or the cut-out base plate - on the cut-out we take about 1.5 inches off at the back of the tire, allowing for bigger tires on a lower lift.

Perfect. Sounds like cut out is best for me since my plans are no body lift, no suspension lift (other then from the rear spring relocators-& 1" puck up front) & 35's. Thanks Mat!

Last questions about these. I see in the instruction manual that when we drill it seems we may drill through into the interior. Is this true or am I reading the directions wrong? It's on page 3 of PDF section C it's for us SWB TJ's.

Also, what do you all do (on your rigs) for the passenger side evap canister? On my 2006 mine is located at the 9 o clock position of the passenger rear tire. I'm afraid of rocks hitting it.
However, I have heard that the evap canister is not needed and is just for emissions. If that is the case, I'll just rip mine out as we don't have state emissions testing here.

[6thelement]

Originally Posted by matsonian

Are you referring to the old front fenders vs. the new rears? If so, what we do for customers who have the original front fenders, is modify the rears to have the same tubular mounting points rather than the solid ball mounting points on the current system. That way your fronts and rears match. We use the same base plate and same basic hardware, just create a look more in line with your original system.

hmm .

[StormTrooper05]

I decided not to put flares on my jeep so these are the side marker lights I chose to install. They dont look very bright cause the flash on the camera but they are quite bright at night.

Light off



Lights on



Side shot



Sorry for the links. I have not found out how to post an actual pic.

[Deacon]

EDIT HOLY GOD IMAGE SIZES

I'll size them down and repost from my own hosting...

Edit 2 ...much better now

Originally Posted by StormTrooper05

I decided not to put flares on my jeep so these are the side marker lights I chose to install. They dont look very bright cause the flash on the camera but they are quite bright at night.

Light off



Lights on



Side shot



Sorry for the links. I have not found out how to post an actual pic.

Click free

I look forward to seeing these in action. Looks nice and stealth.

[CCJ]

I like those stormtrooper

[techna]

Firekite,
Did you order yet?

Stormtrooper,
What did you do for blinkers? I really need to get out ot Katy or to one of the get togethers to see your Jeep.

[Deacon]

I'm on the list, techna, just waiting for delivery.

[CCJ]

Matsonia, I thought of some other things when I was talkin to my local Jeep club here in my state.
These rear fenders. When we cut em for your comp cut fenders. Do you all have anything in place for the evap canister that resides in the passenger side rear fender?
Or what do you recommend? I know we have to remove the liner which will expose the evap can and the wires (that I think are for our taillights, not sure though. Just wondering what you all did on your rigs for those evaps and those wires.

I think the evap was placed in the rear on 2003-2006 TJs.

[StormTrooper05]

I bought some 2.5 inch Amber 13 LED's off E-bay came with rubber grommet and wire harness for $15. They are sealed to make them water resistant. I just used a 3inch bi-metal hole saw. Smoothed the ruff surface and painted. The grommets fit perfect. Look on page 3 of this discussion to see the pick of the front grill.