Well, after about 2 years the heim joints on my anit-rock are wearing out and need to be replaced. I may pick up the supplies from McMaster Carr including $4 in the threaded rod and jsut make some new links instead of trying to find "just the right" 20 pitch heim joint.
Or you could always just get the heims from McMaster-Carr.
I ended up upgrading to the SwayLOC. Damn, it's an awesome piece of equipment. The Anti-rock is good but having the second stiffer torsion rod for the street setting is great. TJ corners really flat now. And switching between onroad and offroad takes about 2 seconds and a flip of a lever.
I like the explanation, it explains off-road sway bars well. However if you have locking differentials wouldn't you want maximum flex to try and have a level body for you Jeep, while the suspension does all the flexing. I can see that one tire might have very little down force, and thus little traction, but with lockers the other tire should be able to have adequate traction. Am I wrong?
Red 03 TJ sport l OME lift l ARB's front & rear l 4.11 gears l 32X11.50" MTR's l Nth Degree Tummy Tucker l SYE & CV l Nth Degree Dana 44 slider l Nth Degree Oil Pan Skid l JKS adjustable front track bar l KC slimlights l Rock Rails l IPF H4 headlights l Dynamat
i have no flex and i'm really wanting to get this but could someone answer this?
- i have a 2.5" coild spacer and a 2" body..... could the anti-rock be installed easily?
- does the anti-rock drive good on the road?
__________________ 2000 TJ sport "STORMTROOPER" dual tops, 4.0L, 2.5" coil spacer, 2" BL, jks quicker disconnects, worn out 35x12.50 bfg M/Ts, 15x8 d window rock crawlers w/ 4" backspacing, front stinger, custom rear bumper, superwinch lp8500 winch, a to z rocker guards, husky liner floor mats, CB/PA system, daylighters, and straight exhaust