Manual transmission start without pushing in the clutch

GMC7000 · 04-08-2009, 12:27 AM

Any of you folks run your manual transmission this way?

A builder suggested I do this so I do not have to push in the clutch after stalling on a steep hill or when teetering on a large rock..

it makes sense I just want a way to turn this feature on and off

sonoran_Tj · 04-08-2009, 12:36 AM

Pull the manual transmission fuse (19 I think) and put it in the auto spot (20?). You can then start it without pushing in the clutch, though Im pretty sure its hard on the starter even in first and low. I just use the parking brake, carefully timed I can engage the clutch going uphill, let go of the parking brake, and not roll back at all.

Dmcastino · 04-08-2009, 12:37 AM

Yes, a lot of us have defeated the clutch safety thing, on later models all you have to do is pop in an extra fuse but with us 1997 owners its a little more cumbersome. Ther is a plug near the clutch pedal that you have to disconnect and connect to a different harness thing. This thread should help.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/97-tj-clutch-interlock-question-654176/?highlight=clutch+override

GMC7000 · 04-08-2009, 12:45 AM

thanks

speaking of parking brake I need to make sure mine will hold the rig in place, I need to work on this

BP88 · 04-08-2009, 12:48 AM

Adjusting your rear drum brakes will help with your parking brake.

Anyhow, my Jeep was setup to start without the clutch being depressed by the previous owner; however, I always push my clutch in before I fire it up since my old Miata required me to do so. I also heard it helps prevent the wear of something, but I forgot what exactly it was.

troy.j · 04-08-2009, 01:06 AM

yep, mine is a fuse. see no reason to ever change it back.

**ozo101** · 04-08-2009, 04:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmcastino

Yes, a lot of us have defeated the clutch safety thing, on later models all you have to do is pop in an extra fuse but with us 1997 owners its a little more cumbersome. Ther is a plug near the clutch pedal that you have to disconnect and connect to a different harness thing. This thread should help.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/97-tj-clutch-interlock-question-654176/?highlight=clutch+override

some old toyotas 4runners and pick ups have a switch on the dash to bypass the clutch safety, just flick the switch and you can start with no clutch , i never knew what would you want that

**mdm** · 04-08-2009, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ozo101

...i never knew what would you want that

I think you are saying "I never knew why you would want that" meaning why would you want to be able to start the engine without disengaging the clutch.

It is very handy to be able to do it at times such as when you need to start up on a steep incline or when sitting in deep mud. Obviously it's not something you would want to do without a good reason, but it works. It's not as hard on the starter as many people think it is. I've done it many times in several different vehicles. My '00 TJ has 180,000 miles on it and I've done it many times with it. It has the original starter and it's still doing it's job. Several years ago my F250 died in the middle of a busy intersection. I used the starter to move the truck and trailer out of the intersection. That was over 60,000 miles ago and the starter still works fine.

I wouldn't want to start the engine like this for the first time on the trail when you're in a bad situation. If you think you might want to be able to do it set up the fuse and try it a couple of times in the driveway or parking lot. You'll see that the engine will start up a lot easier than you would think.

I would caution you to be careful after you've disabled the clutch safety. When you get off the trails either enable the safety or be very aware that the safety is disabled. If you forget the safety is disabled, you may find yourself driving through the garage wall or into another vehicle in the parking lot. If you leave the safety disabled be sure EVERYONE that drives the rig knows and understands that the engine will start without depressing the clutch pedal.

Dmcastino · 04-08-2009, 12:31 PM

Very good points mdm, its important you remember to clutch it if you are in gear in your driveway or a parking lot or whatever. I rarely leave my Jeep in gear so its not a problem for me, but if you do, you really have to be careful.

mitchrb1 · 04-09-2009, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmcastino

Very good points mdm, its important you remember to clutch it if you are in gear in your driveway or a parking lot or whatever. I rarely leave my Jeep in gear so its not a problem for me, but if you do, you really have to be careful.

I always leave my vehicles in gear when driving a stick shift. I had the emergency brake fail on a car back in the 80's and roll backwards into (luckily) my other vehicle. I also saw this happen to another vehicle in a hospital parking lot. The people that owned the vehicle that was hit called the cops immediately and the poor guy walked out into mess. My friend Just did this last year. He had his Honda Accord in his garage and the brake failed, it then rolled out down his driveway and scrapped the whole side of his drivers side down his brick mailbox holder. Quite a bit of damage. Since then I always put it in first facing uphill or reverse if I am facing downhill. Of course your brake will never fail if you do this.. LOL. but Just in case.

HandyAndy516 · 04-09-2009, 08:03 AM

^ x2. My previous manuals and my jeep would start to give without it. I would park it on a hill and find it 5-10 feet farther down an hour later.... I usually keep it in 1st or 2nd and Rev.

I really need to adjust my drums... I have to pull my lever all the way up to barely work. How do I do that? Just pull the cable more on the lever?

**NotURMailman** · 04-09-2009, 08:24 AM

Remove your tires and brake drums and make sure the shoes themselves are properly adjusted before you go adjusting the cable. (if you have rear drums) If you have rear discs you will have to remove the rotors (the "drum" is inside the rotor hat).

BlackBellamy · 04-09-2009, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by les.delancy

Remove your tires and brake drums and make sure the shoes themselves are properly adjusted before you go adjusting the cable.

Or use a $3 brake spoon so you can skip the removing tires bit.

**mdm** · 04-09-2009, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by les.delancy

Remove your tires and brake drums and make sure the shoes themselves are properly adjusted before you go adjusting the cable. (if you have rear drums) If you have rear discs you will have to remove the rotors (the "drum" is inside the rotor hat).

You can't adjust the shoes with the drums/rotors removed. Well, you can, but it's not the recommended method. There is no need to remove the drums/rotors unless you are wanting to check the condition of the shoes and other brake parts. The drums/rotors must be installed to adjust the shoes. Remove the rubber plug on the inboard side of the backing plate and turn the star wheel with a brake spoon or screwdriver. Expand the shoes with the star wheel until the shoes start putting a drag on the drum/rotor when the wheel is rotated. Back off the star wheel a bit and replace the rubber plug. You now have an e-brake that should work and if you have drum brakes your overall braking performance will be improved.

**NotURMailman** · 04-09-2009, 09:04 AM

I didn't mean adjust with them off. I should have clarified better. I meant to remove them and inspect everythig and then make sure adjustment is correct. That was my bad grammar being unclear there!